The Freie Weingärtner Wachau is a co-operative association of
growers and is the largest producer in the prestigious Wachau region
of Austria. Altogether 778 members hold the 849 shares, cultivating a
total of 600 ha of vineyards (the Wachau only has 1400 ha under vine
in total). They are each contracted in for five-year terms, and
despite its size, this is clearly not your run-of-the-mill
cooperative. A quick primer to the rather complicated wine names:
first the grape variety (Riesling or Grüner Veltliner here), then the
quality level (Federspiel is good quality but Smaragd is better), then
the village or regional designation (e.g. Loibner for the village
Loiben) and finally, if appropriate the vineyard (e.g. Loibenberg).
Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Terrassen Thal Wachau 2000
Unusual herby nose. Light, clean and fresh on the palate. Not much
happening here; it’s rather simple and light. Good (£6.75 Ben Ellis
Wines)
Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Terrassen Thal Wachau 2000
Nice balance here, but it's a little light. Nice herby nose with
some peppery fruit on the medium bodied palate. Not particularly
complex. Good/very good (£8.75 Ben Ellis Wines)
Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Terrassen Thal Wachau 1997
Getting more interesting. Clean, mineralic, slightly peppery nose.
Concentrated on the palate with clean mineralic flavours and good
acidity. Very good
Riesling Federspiel Viesslinger Ried Bruck 1999
Crisp, limey nose with an attractive minerality. Subtle. There's a
limey, vegetal kick to the palate and the high acidity is perhaps a
little obtrusive. Tight and youthful, this may yet develop. Good/very
good (£8.70 Ben Ellis Wines)
Riesling Smaragd Terrassen Thal Wachau 1997
Lovely nose: partly evolved with citrus/lime character and lots of
minerality. Crisp, intense lemon and herb-tinged fruit on the palate.
Quite austere with a high-acid finish. Very good+ (£10.25 Ben Ellis
Wines)
Riesling Smaragd Loibner Leibenberg 2000
From a single vineyard in the extreme east of the Wachau, enjoying
a warmer climate. Expressive ripe, floral, perfumed nose. Nice palate
showing citrus fruit and high acid, although it's currently a little
bit simple. Very good (£11.25 Ben Ellis Wines)
Riesling Smaragd Loibner Leibenberg 1999
Subtle, delicate limey nose. Good concentration on the rich, taut
limey palate. Good acidity. Tasty, but needs time to evolve
complexity. Very good (£11.25 Ben Ellis Wines)