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The wines of Erich Krutzler, Dveri Pax, Slovenia

Erich is an Austrian winemaker (Weingut Krutzler) who has crossed the border into Slovenia. In Jarenina, the Benedictine Abbey of Admont has an 850 year history of wine growing. In June 2001 they hired Erich as consultant, and since 2004 he’s been general manager of the winery and vineyards (known as Dveri Pax). These are very impressive wines of real poise, and they’re well priced to boot. Slovenian wine is a bit of a novelty in the UK, but I’d really be interested in trying more.

The estate is quite sizeable, with 320 hectares of land, of which 40 are currently under vine. Erich doesn’t have many old vines to play with because of replanting. It’s likely that quality will continue to improve here as the vineyards are developed and get a bit of vine age.

UK agent is Richards Walford, and retail price is given in brackets.

Dveri Pax ‘Janez’ Mariobor 2004 Kakovostno
Fresh and herby with a nice spicy freshness to the fruit. Delicious, accessible and quite bright. Very good+ 87/100 (£6.99)

Dveri Pax ‘Janez’ Mariobor 2005 Kakovostno
Very aromatic and bright with lovely full ripe herbal fruit. The palate is rich and full with bright fruit and a peppery sort of edge. Very good+ 88/100 (£7.49)

Dveri Pax Sauvignon Blanc Maribor 2004 Kakovostno 
This was made from bought in grapes because Dveri Pax’ vines are still young. The plan is in the future to use some 600 litre barrels for fermentation. Quite a rich style with subtle herbal edge to the full fruit. Good acidity and lovely fruit freshness. Very good+ 88/100 (£8.99)

Dveri Pax Sauvignon Blanc Maribor 2005 Kakovostno 
Open herby, slightly smoky nose. The palate is concentrated and full with nice weight of fruit. Quite a rich style. Lovely fruit. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£9.99)

Dveri Pax Renski Riesling Maribor 2004 Kakovostno
Around 28 g/l residual sugar, with 9% alcohol. Lovely full, spicy nose showing bright lemony fruit. The palate is rich and concentrated with lovely melony richness to the fruit and massive acidity hiding under the sweetness. A really interesting wine with good balance. Very good/excellent 91/100 (£10.99)

Dveri Pax Renski Riesling Maribor 2005 Kakovostno
About 70 g/l residual sugar with 10% alcohol. Wonderfully expressive rich melony nose with lovely lemony freshness. The palate is sweet and rich with lovely fruit and good density. A very rich but balanced wine. Very good/excellent 91/100 (£15.99)

Wines tasted 01/06
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com

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