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The wines
of Erich
Krutzler, Dveri Pax, Slovenia
Erich is an Austrian winemaker (Weingut Krutzler) who has crossed the
border into Slovenia. In Jarenina, the Benedictine Abbey of Admont has
an 850 year history of wine growing. In June 2001 they hired Erich as
consultant, and since 2004 he’s been general manager of the winery
and vineyards (known as Dveri Pax). These are very impressive wines of
real poise, and they’re well priced to boot. Slovenian wine is a bit
of a novelty in the UK, but I’d really be interested in trying more.
The estate is quite sizeable, with 320 hectares of
land, of which 40 are currently under vine. Erich doesn’t have many
old vines to play with because of replanting. It’s likely that
quality will continue to improve here as the vineyards are developed
and get a bit of vine age.
UK agent is Richards Walford, and retail price is given
in brackets.
Dveri Pax ‘Janez’ Mariobor 2004 Kakovostno
Fresh and herby with a nice spicy freshness to the fruit.
Delicious, accessible and quite bright. Very good+ 87/100 (£6.99)
Dveri Pax ‘Janez’ Mariobor 2005 Kakovostno
Very aromatic and bright with lovely full ripe herbal fruit. The
palate is rich and full with bright fruit and a peppery sort of edge.
Very good+ 88/100 (£7.49)
Dveri Pax Sauvignon Blanc Maribor 2004 Kakovostno
This was made from bought in grapes because Dveri Pax’ vines are
still young. The plan is in the future to use some 600 litre barrels
for fermentation. Quite a rich style with subtle herbal edge to the
full fruit. Good acidity and lovely fruit freshness. Very good+ 88/100
(£8.99)
Dveri Pax Sauvignon Blanc Maribor 2005 Kakovostno
Open herby, slightly smoky nose. The palate is concentrated and
full with nice weight of fruit. Quite a rich style. Lovely fruit. Very
good/excellent 90/100 (£9.99)
Dveri Pax Renski Riesling Maribor 2004 Kakovostno
Around 28 g/l residual sugar, with 9% alcohol. Lovely full, spicy
nose showing bright lemony fruit. The palate is rich and concentrated
with lovely melony richness to the fruit and massive acidity hiding
under the sweetness. A really interesting wine with good balance. Very
good/excellent 91/100 (£10.99)
Dveri Pax Renski Riesling Maribor 2005 Kakovostno
About 70 g/l residual sugar with 10% alcohol. Wonderfully
expressive rich melony nose with lovely lemony freshness. The palate
is sweet and rich with lovely fruit and good density. A very rich but
balanced wine. Very good/excellent 91/100 (£15.99)
Wines tasted 01/06
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