Nova de Nosso Senhora do Carmo
An important new producer of Douro table wines
This sizeable Quinta is beautifully
situated, a short way upstream of Quinta do Crasto in the Cima Corgo
region of the Douro. Itís owned by Amorim (the well known cork
company), who acquired it when they bought Port house Burmester
(which they have since sold on). The first table wines from the
estate vineyards were released in 2005.
The view downstream from the Quinta:
Crasto is on the hill sticking out into the Douro
The Quinta gets its name from the patron
saint of the 17th century riverside chapel on the property, where
the crews of the Rabelo boats would pray for protection on this,
which before the Douro was dammed would have been quite a dangerous
stretch of the river. The chapel contains within it a statue of
Nosso Senhora, which apparently is so heavy (despite its small size)
that it takes a few strong men to lift it.
As well as being a fully working wine
estate, Quinta Nova is also a very stylish, authentically Portuguese
hotel, and there are several walking trails around the property for
guests to make use of.
There are 85 hectares of vines on the 120
hectare property, looked after by viticulturalist Ana Mota, who took
us on a tour round the estate. Some of them are newer plantings, but
there are also plenty of old vines. All the wines are made from this
estate, with the exception of the whites: the highest spot on the
estate is 287 metres, which means that there arenít any spots cool
enough for whites to do well.
of the Marquis de Pombal's standing stones dating from 1758; the
Quinta is in the background
When Amorim took over the estate in 1999,
there were 36 hectares of vines, including 7 hectares of 80 year old
vines. Now, one-quarter of the plantings on the estate are Touriga
Nacional. Interestingly, Ana points out that Touriga Franca is the
most planted variety in the region. Itís a highly terroir-dependent
variety, capable of making very perfumed wines, but it can be
difficult to ripen. Here itís fantastic, going head-to-head with
Touriga Nacional when blends are selected.
Amorim also own a quinta in the Douro
Superior, up at Barca Alva, on the border with Spain. It is
currently a 200 hectare olive farm, but they plan to begin planting
20 hectares of vines this year when the nesting season has ended in
After the vineyard tour we met with Luisa
Amorim, who is in charge of the Quinta, daughter of Americo Amorim
and cousin of Antůnio Amorim who heads up the Amorim cork division.
We also met with Francesco Montenegro (winemaking consultant,
spending 3 days a week here, below right) and Pedro Pina (resident
winemaker, below left).
Francisco thinks that itís really with
the 2008 and 2009 harvests that the hard work put in here is
beginning to show. 2005 was just the first vintage; 2006 was a
difficult vintage for everyone in the Douro. Quality was on the up
with 2007, which was a very good vintage, but 2008 and 2009 look
even more promising.
The range of wines has a number of tiers.
At the bottom, there are the Pomares wines with newly redesigned
labels: these are deliciously fresh, fruit-driven wines. Then there
are the Grainha wines, which begin to get quite serious. Finally,
the Quinta wines, including a new icon wine that is as yet unnamed.
Pomares Branco 2009
A blend of Viosinho, Gouveio and Rabigato. Bright and fruity
with real precision. A fresh, citrusy, mineral white with grapefruit
notes and good acidity. Fantastic freshness and personality. 89/100
(UK retail c. £8.50)
Pomares Tinto 2008
Lovely focused dark fruits nose of cherries, berries and plums.
The palate is bright, fresh and precise with lovely presence and
some nice grippy structure. Good acidity, with a hint of meatiness
on the finish. 90/100 (UK retail c. £8.50)
Grainha Branco 2008
A blend of Viosinho, Gouveio and oak-fermented Rabigato. Nutty,
bold and quite intense with some minerality. Taut with melony fruit
and nuttiness, finishing fresh, with potential for further
Grainha Tinto 2007
Fresh and focused with sweet, pure dark cherry and berry fruits
on the nose. The palate is fresh with nice bright cherry and plum
fruit and a bit of spicy structure. Nicely integrated oak. It needs
some time to open out fully. 91/100
Grainha Tinto 2008 (cask sample)
Lovely sweet focused dark cherry/berry fruit nose. Vibrant fruit
on the palate with some spiciness. A delicious fruit-driven style.
Quinta Nova Colheita Tinto 2008
An unoaked cuvťe. Spicy and chocolatey with a slightly balsamic
edge to the ripe blackberry and berry fruits. The palate is ripe,
dense and sweetly fruited with some spiciness and chocolatey
richness. Very attractive. 89/100
Quinta Nova Reserva 2007
A selection with lots of Tinta Amarela and almost no Touriga
Nacional. Highly aromatic nose with lovely complex spiciness and
some warmth, dominated by sweet blackberry and cherry fruit. The
palate is fresh and focused with nice acidity supporting the bright,
fresh berry fruit. Firm but nicely judged tannins provide structure.
Quinta Nova Grande Reserva 2007
15% alcohol. This has old vines and more Touriga Nacional. Very
refined and perfumed with spice, dark chocolate and lots of
blackberry and dark cherry fruit, as well as a hint of meatiness.
The palate is beautifully complex and spicy, showing expressive,
rich fruit and well integrated oak. Powerful, ripe and rich, yet
still in balance. 94/100
Quinta Nova Touriga Nacional 2007
15% alcohol. Very aromatic, perfumed nose: floral with some
blackberry and dark cherry fruit. The palate is beautifully
expressive with lovely fresh dark fruits. Very expressive with some
grippy tannin on the finish. Ripe and lush but not at all jammy.
The as yet unnamed icon wine, 2008
Old vines, and almost no Touriga Nacional. Very sweet nose is
floral with ripe, slightly jammy fruit. Smells remarkably like a
young Vintage Port! The palate has amazing depth and concentration,
with sweet lush fruit and lovely purity. Very striking. Will be
bottled in June 2010.
We then tried a range of 2009 cask
samples, which were all quite different, yet all of very high
quality: 2009 here seems to be a very successful vintage, even if it
was quite difficult for many other Douro producers because of the
hot, dry conditions and lack of rain in late summer.
Quinta Nova Reserve Porto
50 cl bottle. Lovely, vibrant, fruit focused and with nice
tannins. Deliciously rich with lovely fresh fruit. Sealed with a
driven cork, which is a nice touch. 89/100
Quinta Nova LBV 2005
Vibrant, spicy and intense with firm structure. This is dense
and tight with fresh acidity and lovely focused dark fruits. Lovely
tannic structure on the finish. 92/100
Quinta Nova Vintage Port 2007
Concentrated, smooth, sweet plum, cherry and blackberry fruit.
Focused with nice freshness and some spicy notes. Not a big,
dark-fruited style but it has lovely tannic structure. 93/100
Quinta Nova Vintage Port 2008 (cask
Very focused and intense with fresh dark fruits. Jammy and rich,
but still fresh. Bold with amazing concentration and purity: a
serious effort. 93Ė95/100
new Douro (series)
tasted as 03/10
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