The wines of Muxagat, Douro, Portugal

The wines of Muxagat Vinhos, Douro, Portugal
Thought-provoking wines from Mateus Nicolau de Almeida

Website: www.muxagat.pt

These are the wines of Mateus Nicolau de Almeida, who has an impressive Douro pedigree. His grandfather Fernando was responsible for Barca Velha, and his father, João, is in charge of Ramos Pinto.

Mateus has been making wines under this label since 2003, but this is the first time I’ve come across them. They are made from vineyards in the Douro Superior, which include his own, but also other old plots at altitude.

‘When I finished my studies in France I came to Douro with the Idea of my making my own wine that could reflect my family tradition but also what I have learned in France and other countries where I have been,’ says Mateus. ‘I started in 2003 buying grapes from old vineyards and in 2005 I planted my first vineyard where I practice organic farming and also try to follow some biodynamic ideas.’

‘I consider my self as a "Douro Vigneron" were I do everything from planting to bottling,’ he says.

Mateus takes a thoughtful approach in the winery, for example moving away from small new oak to larger barrels, and the result is an impressive range of wines, with real interest to them.

THE WINES

Mux Tinto 2009 Douro, Portugal
13.5% alcohol. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Sousão. Fresh, vivid and aromatic with black cherries, eart h, spice and a hint of tar. The palate is fresh, supple and well defined. It’s not over-ripe, and has a savoury, grippy edge to the fresh, ripe black cherry fruit. Very well judged: there’s some substance here, but also fresh, bright, vivid fruit. 92/100

Mux Tinto 2010 Douro, Portugal
Wonderfully fresh, pure black cherry, blackberry and plum fruit here: great definition. Very fresh with some floral notes. Fine and expressive. There’s a savoury, grippy, mineral dimension underneath the fruit. A delicious expression of the Douro. 94/100

Mux Branco 2010 Douro, Portugal
13% alcohol. Slightly creamy, buttery edge to the bright citrus and grapefruit characters. High acidity. Lively, pithy and mineral. 89/100

Mux Branco 2011 Douro, Portugal
13% alcohol. From old parcels with an average age of 30 years. Mostly Rabigato, but also field blend of other varieties. Slightly reduced mineral nose. Taut, lemony, pithy and citrusy with lovely precision and purity. High acidity. Lean, but such a lovely pure wine. 93/100

Muxagat Tinta Barocca 2011 Douro, Portugal
13% alcohol. Very fresh, with vivid, pure cherry and berry fruits on the nose. Bright, lively and vibrant with some sapid green notes. Lovely pure fruit on the palate: sweet yet fresh and immediate, with a bit of grippy structure. Joyful and pure. 90/100

Muxagat Os Xistos Altos Branco 2010 Douro, Portugal
Aromatic, taut and fresh with spice and mineral notes as well as citrus and toast on the nose. The palate is precise and taut with subtle creamy notes as well as toast, spice and citrus. Very fine with good acidity and subtle oak influence. Should age well. 93/100