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The wines of Domaine Dirler-Cadé, Alsace, France

This family-owned Alsace domaine has a respectable 18.2 hectares of vineyards. They’ve adopted biodynamics (which they have been practising since 1998) and expect to be certified in 2007. These are nice, solid wines, and the Gewürztraminer – not normally a variety I’m too keen on – really shines. Stocked by Berry Bros & Rudd, whose prices (perhaps a touch on the high side) are given.

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Muscat Speigel Grand Cru 2002
Fresh, pretty grapey nose. Savoury, approachable palate is quite dry. Nice. Very good+ 88/100 (£14.75)

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Riesling Belzbrunnen 2002
Assertive herb-tinged nose with green fruit characters. Quite full, herby palate is savoury and dry. Very good+ 88/100 (£14.25)

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Pinot Gris Schwarzberg 2002
Very herby edge to the smoky, savoury nose. Mideweight palate with a bit of residual sugar adding richness. Very good+ 89/100 (£15.75)

Domaine Dirler-Cadé Gewürztraminer Kessler Grand Cru 2002
Quite a deep colour. Nice, broad herby nose with some richness. Quite pretty. Lovely richness on the palate, with a really thick texture contributed to by some resdual sugar. Finishes medium sweet. Very good/excellent 92/100 (£19.25)

see also: Alsace wines

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