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The
wines of Comte
de Vogüé, Chambolle-Musigny, Burgundy
Corney & Barrow Grand
Dinner and Tasting, 20 January 2005
Any half-decent wine writer in the UK gets asked to
lots of tastings. Of course, whether I belong in this category or not
is a decision for others to make. Nonetheless, I receive a reasonable
amount of invitations, many of which I have to say no to because of
time constraints. But one invitation I didn’t even think about
turning down was a chance to attend a black-tie dinner hosted by
Corney & Barrow showcasing the wines of Comte de Vogüé, one of
Burgundy’s most famous names.
This historical domaine has been in the hands of the
same family for over 500 years, and currently the 20th generation is
in control. That’s an incredible statistic in itself. Recent history
is that towards the end of Georges de Vogüé’s life the domaine
went through a sticky patch in the late 1970s and early 1980s (he died
in 1987), but things have since turned round. His daughter Elisabeth
de Ladoucette ran things during the late 1980s until 2002, and during
this spell the current ‘dream team’ was put together: she hired
Francois Millet as winemaker, Gérard Gaudeau as chef de vignes (a position he held for 10 years until succeeded by
current viticulturalist Eric Bourgogne in 1996), and Jean-Luc Pépin
was given the important job of sales and marketing in 1988. The
current incumbents are George’s grand-daughters Claire de Causans
and Marie de Ladoucette.
I won’t give an exhaustive history of the domaine:
for context, the reader is referred to Bill Nanson’s nigh-on
definitive account on his wonderful Burgundy
Report site, which can be accessed at http://www.burgundy-report.com/105/features/vogue.html.
The philosophy at de Vogüé is the sound (if somewhat
unoriginal) one of trying to blend tradition and modernity. Nothing is
done systematically in either the vineyard or the cellar – there is
a constant adaptation to both vineyard and vintage conditions. The
team see themselves as intermediaries: nature is the boss and they
then guide the wine. Jean-Luc Pépin’s analogy is that in the
vineyard Eric photographs the wine and Francois develops the picture
in the cellar. Corny, perhaps, but there’s a truth to it. But a
little perspective is called for here: the total vineyard holdings of
de Vogüé are just 12.5 hectares, which is pretty tiny considering
the visibility this domaine has.
Following are my notes on the wines, combined with the
information supplied during the dinner by Jean-Luc about both the
specific terroirs and the vintage conditions. Too much information, by
far, but I hope there are a few who will find some of this
interesting.
General comments about the commune of Chambolle Musigny:
the soil is mostly limestone, which contributes fragrancy, delicacy
and finesse. With a high level of limestone the wine emphasizes
fragrance at the expense of weight.
Bourgogne
Blanc
De Vogüé is
the only domaine on the Côtes du Nuits that has been making Grand Cru
white wine. In the 1970s and early 1980s there was no planning for
replanting vines, so when Francois and Gérard joined in 1986 they
uprooted most of the old vines to replant in order for the next
generation of wine. This wine comes from young vines that were
replanted in 1986, 1987 and 1991 (0.4 hectares). Another 0.2 ha was
replanted in 1997. Jean-Luc thinks the wine is somewhere between
village and premier cru level at the moment. These vines are at the
top of Musigny.
The 2000 vintage
2000 wasn’t a difficult vintage; problem was the crop
levels, which were excessive. 50% was eliminated by a green harvest (vendange
vert). June was very sunny. The Côtes de Beaune and Chalonnaise
had heavy rains on 12 September. There was a normal harvest over
18–20 September.
de
Vogüé Bourgogne Blanc 2000
Rich, ripe intense nose is full with a nutty, minerally
edge. Very full and broad; quite complex. The palate is concentrated,
broad and has a minerally, spicy underlay to the fruit. Warm, nutty
finish. Quite a rich style: broad and intense with well-judged oak.
Very good/excellent 92/100
The
2001 vintage
In 2001, nature was generous, and growers were faced
with huge quantities. In late April/early May Eric reduces the excess
buds in a manoeuvre known as ‘green pruning’. Later on in July it
is time for the green harvest, when it is important to reduce yield.
Similar weather to 2000 was experienced: a hot, sunny
June was followed by July and August which exhibited patterns of
warm/cool/warm/cool conditions. The first two weeks of September
weren’t so good: they were rather damp.
According to Jean-Luc, it’s a vintage that has
developed extraordinarily well: one of the best recent vintages for de
Vogue. The defining characteristic is ‘crushed, fresh fruit’.
de
Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 2001
Vogue has 1.8 ha of village-level vines on the western
side of the village close to the wood. Nice open nose: bright red
fruits with a savoury, earthy edge. The palate has a nice fresh, spicy
red fruit character and shows lovely balance, with earthy, smooth
tannins. Not terribly complex – good acidity with nice fine-grained
spicy tannins. Not big but well proportioned. Very good/excellent
90/100
de
Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 2001
Made since 1995, this is 100% Musigny from young vines.
Quite a complex nose, with a high-toned, spicy, earthy edge. Fresh and
perfumed with a savoury seriousness to it. This wine has a bit of a
split personality: it’s perfumed and inviting on the one hand, yet
on the other it is spicy, savoury and assertive. The palate is fresh,
savoury and quite structured with great balance. Not a big wine but
some development potential lies ahead. Perhaps the oak is just a
little dominant at the moment – there’s a serious spicy richness
to the red fruits. Very good/excellent 92/100
The
1999 vintage
1999 was a special vintage in Burgundy. ‘It is one of the best in
20–30 years: a complete vintage’.
Amoureuses is a cru in Chambolle-Musigny of 0.5
hectares. ‘It is the most feminine, most beautiful vineyard in
Burgundy’, says Jean-Luc. ‘Our parcel is on a limestone cliff, and
the roots go 15 metres deep through the cliff.’ It is described as a
vin de dentelles, a wine of
lace. Very feminine, but with body and structure. It has the potential
to age well.
de
Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 1999
A bit closed on the nose. The palate is savoury with
pretty, rounded red berry fruit. Lots of finesse and some elegance
here, but lacking impact and structure. There’s an appealing red
fruits character, which I guess you could describe as feminine. I
wonder whether I have a less-than-clean glass. Very good/excellent
91/100
Bonnes-Mares is not part of the Chambolle-Musigny
commune. Francois compares the various Vogue wines to a family.
Amoureuses represents the women, Musigny is the father and Bonnes-Mares
is the ‘unmarried uncle’! Adam Brett-Smith of Corney & Barrow
(UK agents) describes Bonnes-Mares as ‘explosive…more masculine in
style, powerful, long-lived and acquiring a sweet, velvety richness
with age.’
de
Vogüé Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 1999
Lovely complex, open nose of red and black fruits with
some sweetness to the fruit. Aromatic and quite full. The palate is
open with bright, fresh cherry and berry fruit, and a nice tarry,
spicy underlay. Lots of ripeness here: a little hint of almost new
world sweet and sour Pinot character. A flattering, approachable wine.
Very good/excellent 93/100
De Vogue own 7.2 hectares of Musigny. That’s
most of it! (70% to be precise.) Deduct the 0.6 hectares of white
vines and this leaves 6.6 of red, of which 2.8 hecatres are young
vines (because of the replanting) which leaves 3.8 hectares of old
vine Musigny. This produces one of Burgundy’s most celebrated red
wines.
de
Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru 1999
A little tight and closed on the nose. Still, there’s
some minerally, spicy depth showing. The palate is concentrated and
full, with ripe complex red fruits underlain by a tight but
fine-grained spicy tannic structure. This is a concentrated wine that
is quite serious and needs time to open. The oak is there, but it is
well integrated. Definitely not one for current consumption! Very
good/excellent 94/100
1996
Vintage
1996 was a special year throughout Europe: a north east
wind blowed from spring time to the end of the crop. It helped to keep
acidity high. It’s easy to pick 1996s because of the high natural
level of acidity. These wines have a long future ahead of them.
de
Vogüé Bourgogne Blanc 1996
This is a brilliant white Burgundy. It has a lovely
minerally, slightly stinky, cabbagey nose which is complex and full.
The palate is savoury but fresh, still with lovely acidity. Full
flavoured with a lemony freshness to the nutty fruit – very precise
and defined. Minerally and complex, and remarkable considering that
this was from very young vines. Excellent 95/100
1993
vintage
This was a difficult vintage, but one which made some
serious wines. There was a wet spring, a wet July, a hot and sunny
August and some rains in September. The village wine is approachable
but not enjoyable, with a lot of development ahead of it. In general
1993 is still completely closed: it is a great, classic vintage and
one to keep for a long time.
de
Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1993
Nice deep colour. Expressive, aromatic nose is spicy
and savoury, showing nice balance. The palate is dense with a lovely
spicy, herby structure. Quite tannic and savoury with good acidity.
Slightly drying finish. An impressive wine with an earthy, savoury
edge. A food wine. Very good/excellent 93/100
1997
Vintage
A year of naturally low yields. A vintage of enjoyment,
but it might not be one to keep for 20 years.
de
Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 1997
Brooding, spicy, silky smooth nose of sweet elegant red
fruits. Good density. The palate is smooth and elegant with a herby
edge to the smoothly structured red fruits. Quite silky and spicy but
with a nice freshness to the fruit. May well develop but currently
drinking nicely. Very good/excellent 92/100
de
Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 1992
This, along with 1994, was one of the two weakest
vintages of the 1990s. Very savoury intense nose with a high-toned
herby note. A little undergrowthy, but with some freshness too. The
palate is savoury and intense with a spicy, herby character. Quite
evolved and undergrowthy with an earthy edge. Delicious in a more
mature style. Very good/excellent 93/100
de
Vogüé Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 1988
A year of drought in Burgundy. Herby, undergowthy edge
to the nose with complex tarry, slightly medicinal notes. The palate
is spicy and earthy with good acidity. Quite firm, structured and
spicy with some tannic structure. Perfumed and eloquent but rather
evolved. Very good/excellent 93/100
de
Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru 1991
There’s a story behind this wine. It’s what is
known in the trade as a difficult vintage. A big hailstorm came from
the southwest on 22nd of August, and focused on the village of
Chambolle. This caused lots of damage. However, the weeks following
were dry, so rot was avoided (this would have been disastrous).
Following the hailstorm the damaged berries dried up. However, these
had the potential to give a ‘dried tannin’ taste to the wine, so
Francois made the expensive decision of separating out the dried
berries. Everyone was drafted in for a tweezer-led triage that took
two weeks! This meant that Francois could still macerate, and saved
the vintage. The wine shows a tight, spicy herby nose which is
medicinal and full. Firm and savoury. The palate is dense and full
with lots of structure. Quite evolved but with lots of structure
remaining. There’s a meaty earthiness underpinning the palate. A
very savoury wine with some future. Very good/excellent 94/100
See also: tasting notes of Burgundy
wines; the wines of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
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