The wines of D’Arenberg, McLaren Vale, South Australia

D’Arenberg is a winery that has reinvented itself since the mid-1990s, with an expansion of its range and the adoption of a series of quirky two-part names, along with some clever marketing and the world’s most involved back labels. The range seems to be expanding ever wider: it was the first time I’d tried five of these wines (the Riesling, Sauvignon, Viognier, Rousanne, Marsanne and the Laughingt Magpie). I have to admit, I’m a bit unconvinced by the gimmicky marketing, and I had mixed feelings about some of the wines. It’s not until you get to the top-end of the range that things begin to get exciting. I was really impressed by the Mourvèdre and Grenache, both of which show plenty of varietal character (this is reassuring, considering the heavy winemaking imprint that some of these wines show). At the very top of the range, the 1999 Dead Arm is lovely, even though this was a tricky vintage across most of  South Australia, and the 2000 Laughing Magpie is also impressive. I’m quite a fan of the Coppermine Road Cabernet, which shows huge concentration, but this one does need time. Like most Aussie wines, prices have crept up steadily in recent years, but not excessively so.

Dry Dam Riesling 2000, Fleurieu Peninsula
From the hills north of the McLaren Vale. There’s a lovely bright edge to the nose, which shows lifted citrus fruit with a touch of spice. Modern, fruity palate with good concentration, although it’s a tiny bit confected. Very good

Olive Grove Chardonnay 2001
There’s an attractive nutty edge to the nose, which is attractive, buttery and quite showy. The palate is smooth and nutty, with well integrated oak and a touch of coconut. Tasty stuff in a very Australian mould. Very good

Broken Fishplate Sauvignon Blanc 2000
Distinctive leafy, herby edge to the nose, with a touch of herbaceousness. Crisp palate, but I find the herbaceousness off-putting. Good

Last Ditch Viognier 1999
Unusual citrussy nose with a herby edge to it. Rich textured palate has a slightly odd edge. Herby and a bit weird. Good

Money Spider Roussanne 2001
Very bright lemony nose with a floral edge. Youthful. Palate is modern and fruit driven, and is currently quite citrussy and youthful. Good concentration and may well develop some interest. Very good

Hermit Crab Marsanne 2001
Bright, attractive citrussy nose with a nice sweet herbal edge. Tasty, full-textured palate with a nice herbiness to it. This is an attractive modern-styled white. Very good+

High Trellis Cabernet Sauvignon 1999
Very sweet forward nose of ripe berry fruit with lush oak influence. Rich, lush palate with ripe fruit and a spicy edge. Very tasty in a sexy style, this is a crowd pleaser. Very good+ (£7.99)

The Footbolt Shiraz 1999
Rich slightly spicy nose is slightly liftes and a touch alcoholic. Lush, ripe fruit on the palate which is very forward and a tiny bit disjointed. Very good (£7.99)

D’Arry’s Original Shiraz Grenache 1999
There’s some richness to the spicy nose, with a bit of baked fruit. Rounded, ripe palate with quite a bit of spice and some tannins. Attractive but not quite all together. Very good (£7.99)

Custodian Grenache 1998
Lighter in colour than the other reds, this has a nose showing herbs, leather, some spice and liquoricey notes. Lovely savoury/spicy palate is very varietally true, with some ripe berry fruit. It’s almost Châteauneuf-like. Tasty stuff. Very good/excellent (£8.99)

Twenty Eighth Road Mourvedre 1998
Nice to see the varietal character showing through here. It’s a slightly faded red colour with a bricking rim. Very savoury dry, spicy nose with notes of leather and tea. The palate is quite chunky and is intensely savoury, with firm tannins. A very distinctive wine. Very good/excellent (£9.99)

The Laughing Magpie Shiraz Viognier 2000
This is the one with the back label that is covered over with a ‘censored’ sticker, because it mentions Côte Rôtie (the Northern Rhône appellation where a dash Viognier is allowed in addition to Syrah). Of course, this bears no resemblance to Côte Rôtie, but it’s a lovely wine nonetheless. Deep, intense purple/black colour. There’s a lovely roasted smoky edge to the nose, and the palate shows intense berry fruit with a dark chocolate edge and some firm tannins. Good acidity. Super chunky stuff with real appeal. Very good/excellent

Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon 1998
Pronounced blackcurrant nose with a creamy edge. On the palate the rich, lush berry fruit combines well with the firm, grippy tannins. Great concentration, but slightly rustic? Lots of interest here, it will be fascinating to see how it evolves. Very good/excellent (£17.99)

Dead Arm Shiraz 1999
Deep red/purple colour. Very rich complex nose showing lush, sweet-edged spicy fruit with a chocolatey richness and spicy oak. The palate is concentrated, spicy and chocolatey. Currently quite dense and tight, with firm tannins. A fine effort from a trickier vintage. Very good/excellent (£17.99)

Ironstone Pressings Grenache Shiraz 1998
Lovely rich chocolatey/spicy nose with a slightly lifted edge. Dense, spicy, chunky palate with great concentration and firm tannins, but perhaps lacking a touch of excitement. Very good+ (£17.99)

Vintage Fortified Shiraz 1999
Opaque red/black colour, this is a viscous wine. The nose shows a blast of rich liquoricey fruit with lots of alcohol. Rich, sweet pure fruit on the palate with a chocolatey edge. Very tasty, but probably needs time to come together: at the moment it’s a little disjointed. Very good+

UK agent: Bibendum Wine (Ph: 020 7449 4110)
Wines tasted 01/02

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