The
wines of
Cune,
Rioja, Spain
Compania Vinícola del Norte de España, Lersundi,
9-6aPlta, E48009 Bilbao, Spain
Tel: +34 944 243 000 Fax: +34 944 246 686
E-mail: cvnebi@eurociber.es
Compania Vinícola del Norte de España, better known as 'Cune',
is one of the leading traditional Rioja producers.
First, it’s probably worth clarifying the relationship
between Cune and Contino, which is often a source of confusion. They
are not the same company: instead, Contino is a separate estate,
making single-estate Riojas, but which is 50% owned by Cune. Although
I tasted them together, I’m going to be writing up the wines of
Contino separately because they are actually quite different.
Cune is a highly reliable producer and these wines rank among
the best of the traditional-styled Riojas. They age well, and even the
cheaper wines, made in industrial quantities, have enough interest to
hold the attention. In their youth some of the more serious wines here
aren’t particularly forward and can seem quite challenging, but they
have a good track record for ageing.
Cune use different bottle shapes to distinguish which part of
Rioja the wines come from. Those in Burgundy-shaped bottles have their
origin in Rioja Alavesa while those in Bordeaux-style bottles hail
from Rioja Alta.
Viña Real Barrel-Fermented Blanco ‘Monopole’ 2000
Mainly the Viura grape, sometimes with a touch of Malvasia (this
is quite hard to ripen, apparently). There’s some skin contact, and
new American oak is used. Very expressive oaky nose which is very
smooth and creamy, with some vanilla notes. Fresh, dry savoury palate
with lemony fruit and high acidity. A very unusual style of wine with
real appeal, if very oaky. Very good+
Cune Blanco 2000
This is an unoaked Viura. Crisp lemony nose is bright and fresh,
leading to a savoury lemony/nutty palate with good acidity. A nice
fresh food wine with lots of flavour. Very good
Cune Rioja Crianza 1999
From Rioja Alta, this is 95% Tempranillo aged in a 50/50 mix of
American and French oak barrels. Considering the industrial quantities
this wine is made in (around a million bottles each year) the quality
is exemplary. Lovely expressive cherry/herby nose leads to a nicely
savoury midweight palate with good acidity. Enough here to hold the
interest. Very good+
Cune Viña Real Crianza 1999
Made in similarly industrial quantities but this time from Rioja
Alavesa, which has more chalky soils and makes wines with greater
structure. Nice spicy chalky nose leads to an attractive structured
palate which is spicy and chunky, showing savoury berry fruit. High
acidity: really needs food. Very good+
Cune Reserva 1997
Rioja Alta fruit. 1997 was a complicated harvest in Rioja. Good
depth of colour here with an attractive spicy lift to the nose,
together with some sweet fruit and herby complexity. On the palate
there is a good density of savoury, chunky fruit with high acidity.
Interesting in a traditional style, and good value. Very good+
Cune Viña Real Reserva 1997
Rioja Alavesa. Nice spicy medicinal edge to the savoury nose. The
palate displays lovely chunky herb-tinged fruit with firm tannins and
good acidity. There’s a minerally, meaty complexity here that is
quite compelling. Very savoury and quite challenging at the moment,
but good concentration bodes well for the future. Very good/excellent
Cune Viña Real Reserva 1995
Quite a youthful, fruity nose showing notes of meat, tea and
leather. Lovely rich herby palate is quite complex with a spicy,
savoury edge. A bit richer and sweeter than the 1997. Very
good/excellent
Cune Viña Real Gran Reserva 1995
Really attractive spicy complexity on the nose. The complex,
chunky palate exhibits herbs, caramel and leather notes with a spicy
edge to the fruit. Very expressive, dense and with an intriguing
complexity this is a brilliant wine. Excellent
Cune Viña Real Gran Reserva 1994
Slightly muted herby, spicy nose leads to a midweight palate with
chunky, herby fruit. It’s nice but a little bit closed at the
moment. This is surprising as 1994 was supposed to be a brilliant
vintage in Rioja: perhaps it will open out and shine with more time in
bottle. Perhaps not. Very good+
Cune Imperial Reserva 1998
Rioja Alta. There was no Gran Reserva in 1998. Seductive, sweet herbal
nose with a caramel edge and sweet fruit. Lovely sweet fruit on the
chewy, herby palate with some tobaccoey complexity. Striking wine,
spoiled just a touch with an oaky vanilla edge. Very good+
Cune Imperial Gran Reserva 1994
Quite an expressive herby nose. Lovely density of savoury, herby
fruit on the palate, together with good acidity. This is an
interesting wine already showing quite a bit of complexity. Very
good/excellent
Cune Imperial Gran Reserva 1995
Focused nose with complex herby character and a spicy/medicinal
edge. There’s rich, sweet fruit on the palate with herby, leathery
notes and good acid. Very nice. Very good/excellent
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wines tasted May
2002; article published October 2002
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