The wines of Mark Haisma, Burgundy

The wines of Mark Haisma
Micronegociant in Burgundy and now also the northern Rhône

Website: www.markhaisma.co.uk

Mark Haisma (pictured above) was, for a decade, winemaker at Yarra Yerring with the late Dr Bailey Carrodus. Now he’s making his own wine, acting as one of a new breed of micronegociants in Burgundy. Mark buys grapes and makes wine from them in rented space in a cellar in Gevrey Chambertin (Pierre Naigeon’s).

It’s a model that a number of passionate young winemakers are following. In Burgundy, vineyard prices are totally crazy—and that’s when you can get your hands on decent patches of vineyard, which hardly ever come on the market. This makes it pretty much impossible to start out in the region. But if you are reasonably well connected, you might be lucky enough to purchase decent grapes, and Mark has lived in the region since 2009.

I caught up with Mark as he was showing cask samples of his 2010s in London. This is his fourth vintage, and he’s steadily been adding wines to his portfolio, including a 2010 Cornas which he made in the cellars of Vincent Paris. Mark sells mostly directly to private customers, but also to some high-end wine shops and restaurants. It’s a very organic business model. The wines are quite lovely.

THE WINES

Mark Haisma Saint Romain 2010 Burgundy, France
From a steeply sloping south-facing site. Powerful and quite intense with nice density, good acidity and a hint of cheesiness. Real personality. 91–93/100

Mark Haisma Bourgogne Pinor Noir 2010 Burgundy, France
Lovely aromatics: a bit meaty, with brilliantly vivid cherry and plum fruit. Real freshness and personality with a savoury twist to the bright fruit. 90–02

Mark Haisma Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Croix des Champs’ 2010 Burgundy, France
Mark sources his Gevrey from the wrong side of the RN74, but it’s a really good terroir. Fresh and vivid with nicely savoury berry fruits on the nose. So stylish. Real elegance on the palate which shows fresh cherry fruit and some mineral notes. Brilliant. 92–94/100

Mark Haisma Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Croix des Champs’ 2009 Burgundy, France
Ripe, poised, silky and elegant with nice precision, and lovely ripe cherry and berry fruits. Generous and full. 93/100

Mark Haisma Bonnes Mares 2010 Burgundy, France
Reach, meaty, spicy and vivid with quite a bit of oak apparent at this stage. Very sweet and aromatic. The palate is concentrated and intense with firm tannins. So intense, this has amazing potential for development. 93–95/100

Mark Haisma Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2009 Burgundy, France
Sweek, silky and meaty with warm spicy notes on the nose. The palate is rich but elegant with good structure and weight. Lovely ripeness and lots of potential.

Mark Haisma Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2009 Burgundy, France
Silky, warm and elegant with some spice and hints of earthiness. Lovely weight and elegance to this expressive wine. 93/100

Mark Haisma Cornas 2010 Northern Rhône, France
From 65 year old vines in Les Combes vineyard, made in the cellars of Vincent Paris. Elegant, aromatic and pure with red berry fruits on the nose. The palate is silky and elegant with fine spiciness. Fresh and pure with a hint of pepper. Silky texture. 94/100