jamie goode's wine blog: Spanish whites, continued: amazing Priorat

Monday, July 27, 2009

Spanish whites, continued: amazing Priorat

Continuing with the theme of Spanish white wines, here's a really amazing example from Priorat. It's pretty serious, and justifies the high price tag.

Mas d'en Compte 2006 Priorat, Spain
50% old vine Garnacha Blanca, 20% Picapoll, 15% Pansal and 15% Macabeo from 'licorella' soils. Fermented in 3000 litre oak barrels. Very deep yellow/gold colour. Fantastic intense nose with complex sweet nuts, herbs, vanilla, spice and melon notes. The rich palate is bold but fresh with complex herb-tinged fruit character. Concentrated and bold with lots of flavour. Fantastic stuff. 94/100 (£17.99 Waitrose)

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11 Comments:

At 6:04 AM, Anonymous Andrew Halliwell said...

Yes, it´s funny how Priorat only seems to be known for its big reds. At the annual wine fair in Falset (early May) you can also try a range of whites from Priorat and neighbouring Montsant. Some are a bit heavy and oxidised, but others are heady, musky gems, often from Garnacha Blanca or sometimes Viognier. And unlike most Priorat, the prices are usually pretty reasonable, despite often tiny production, 6-12 euros say.

 
At 6:23 AM, Anonymous Alex Lake said...

Bloomin' 'eck! Now we're at 94 - isn't this equal to many of the white Burgundies you tasted that cost £100+? I can see a couple of Waitrose purchases coming up now! Sounds like it possibly lacks minerality for me to really like it, though.

 
At 7:24 AM, Anonymous Joe Fisher said...

Indeed Alex!

Jamie, that sounds delicious, did you happen to pick these up along with a few others that you're going to pull out, from the (most) recent sale? I wonder what's next? A 96 Pointer!?

 
At 1:07 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Yes good point - what's better value at £18? This or a nice Meursault ?

 
At 7:22 PM, Anonymous Alex Lake said...

Anonymous - I had a taste of a Girarin Meursault 2005 the other day - £29 from Waitrose and was distinctly underwhelmed. I have, though, very much enjoyed quite a few Bourgogne blancs from well respected Meursault producers (eg. Roulot)

I popped into Waitrose tonight and neither of these whites were available. A shame about that. Not sure I'm prepared to put an online order together. Must say that I suspect the Priorat will be too rich/oaky for my tastes and would welcome any comments from others on this.

 
At 7:34 PM, Anonymous Alex Lake said...

oops - that should read Girardin.

 
At 9:48 PM, Blogger David Bennett- Optometrist and Contact Lens Practitioner said...

I recall having some of this some 10 years ago on a reccoby a local merchant.. A deliciouu drop it was too. Lots of creamy oak and definitely not for the faint hearted. I didn't buy it again for that reason preferring the slightly more elegant styles of Burgs. I recall it weighting in at 14.5% .

Sounds like they have calmed the cuvee down a bit?

Best

David

 
At 2:49 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I've had quite a few of these. I have to say that most of the recent ones I've hated - waaaay too much oak and no delicacy or subtlety. I still have one of the 05s I bought at the celler a couple of years back, in the hope that one day it will be drinkable.

But the 98, drunk in magnum in 2007, was awesome.

 
At 10:55 PM, Blogger Jamie said...

I think it's genuinely worth 94 points, and has some real complexity and interest. It's different to a serious white Burgundy costing the earth, but because it's a Spanish white, the price is much less and indication of its quality, I reckon. It's not a terribly mineral wine: this has much more in terms of up-front flavour. And there is some oak, but it's not too excessive.

 
At 10:55 PM, Blogger Jamie said...

I think it's genuinely worth 94 points, and has some real complexity and interest. It's different to a serious white Burgundy costing the earth, but because it's a Spanish white, the price is much less and indication of its quality, I reckon. It's not a terribly mineral wine: this has much more in terms of up-front flavour. And there is some oak, but it's not too excessive.

 
At 12:25 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I've had a few of the 05s and I can't love it. But I do wonder if there's just a small chance that one day it will turn out like the 98. Not enough to buy another one tho :-)

 

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