jamie goode's wine blog: An amazing natural Beaujolais

Saturday, July 25, 2009

An amazing natural Beaujolais

Beaujolais should be a fun, good-time wine, but it's mostly depressing and either a bit spoofy of simply joyless. Fortunately, there are some natural winemakers who are producing incredibly elegant, complex expressions of Gamay from Beaujolais' distinctive terroirs. They're the ones that I like to drink. And they're also the sorts of wines that I always feel like drinking, too. Here's a good one.

Yvon Metras Moulin-a-Vent 2007 Beaujolais
Pale cherry red colour. Wonderful tension between the sweet, light cherry fruit and the more savoury, earthy, minerally dimension. This is subtle, complex and beautiful with pure sweet fruit complemented by a touch of more evolved character, adding complexity and elegance. Almost perfect balance with a hint of sappiness and lovely purity: this has the same sort of elegance as a good Grand Cru red Burgundy. 93/100 (Les Caves de Pyrene)

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At 1:50 AM, Anonymous Jack Everitt said...

Oh man, we still can't get his wines in the US. Been wanting to try them since The Art of Eating Beaujolais issue a few years ago. :(

At 9:32 PM, Anonymous Mark said...

Yeah I can't understand why no one can find a way to import this stuff.....maybe he doesn't have extra inventory? Interesting, thanks for the review

At 8:04 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...


At 9:49 AM, Anonymous Mark Roper said...

Hi, Have you tried the fleurie wines available from Yves? How do they compare?

At 10:53 AM, Blogger Vicky Wine said...

Oh! This is hard to hear such a thing on Beaujolais wines. I find them truly good-time wine and incredibly joyful. Maybe I am a bit biased because my family makes Fleurie and Moulin à Vent but I find the description quite harsh.

If you want to try an unspoofy Beaujolais, try mine anytime. This should be one you always feel like drinking.

At 11:58 AM, Blogger Jamie said...

Price is hard to be exact about - Les Caves sell to private customers, but don't want to undercut publicly their core business of restaurants and merchants - I'm guessing around £14, so it isn't cheap, but it's very, very good

At 11:58 AM, Blogger Jamie said...

Vicky wine, what's the name of your family's domaine?

At 3:02 PM, Blogger Vicky Wine said...

The Family domaine is Domaine Monrozier - Soon Château des Moriers.

We don't have a website yet but I am trying to convince my dad about it. It is a family vineyard of 10 hectares, 9 of Fleurie and only 1 hectare of Moulin à Vent. We sell mostly in Paris but you'll find it at Borough Wines if you are in London. I'd be more than welcome to give you a bottle if we meet.

At 12:30 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I'm not sure what price Les Caves de Pyrene charge at their shop but through a merchant it would be nearer £18-19

At 3:14 PM, Anonymous Doug said...

It would be around £16.

Mark - he has virtually no stock and it is difficult to persuade him to part with any of his delicious wines.

Mark Roper - Fleurie Printemps is joyously floral and fruity, the old vines is intense, mineral, long and ageworthy - very structured. Jamie has reviewed it on this blog. Metras makes an excellent Beaujolais (pure and simple).

Alas and alack Yves had a wipeout in 2008; almost no wine was made.


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