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12 wines from Berry Bros & Rudd

Berry Bros, historical St James' Street merchant (and now also a leading internet retailer) recently sent me a mixed case of wines for evaluation. Here are my full notes on the 12 wines.

Domaine des Deux Roches Saint Véran 2000, Burgundy, France
From a 29 ha estate; winemaker Jean-Luc Terrier uses no oak in this wine. A full yellow/gold colour this has a surprisingly ripe , honeyed nose, with minerality and tropical fruit/melon notes. It has an accessible full-flavoured, ripe palate with trademark Macon honey and butterscotch notes. Classy stuff: white Burgundy leaning ever so slightly in a new world direction. Very good+ (£8.25 Berry Bros & Rudd) 

Domaine de Coudoulet Muscat 2000 Vin de Pays d'Oc
A family owned Domaine in the South of France that's well known for its Viognier, but this dry Muscat is no slouch—it's probably one of the best examples that I've tried. It kicks off with a beautifully aromatic, herby, grapey nose, which leads to a full flavoured, spicy palate. Impressive stuff, and finishes dry. Very good+ (£5.95 Berry Bros & Rudd) 

San Biagio Barolo 1996, La Morra, Piedmont, Italy
San Biagio is a family owned estate that's been going since 1923, with 13 ha of vineyards. Estate bottling only began in 1990, and the winemaking is in a modern style with the use of some barriques. This Barolo has a medium red/brown colour with slightly brown rim: fairly typical of the Nebbiolo grape. Ripe, perfumed, complex nose of herbs, spices and undergrowth, with a slightly sweet edge. The palate is quite rich, with a spicy character but very firm tannins ad a dry finish. Impressive concentration. There's lots of evolution ahead for this delicious wine, although it's just about drinkable now. Very good/excellent (£16.95) 

San Biagio Barbera d'Alba 1998, Piedmont, Italy
An inky-dark purple black. The nose is initially a little reserved, with spicy, liqouricey berry fruit, a bit of sweet oak, and notes of coffee and olives. The palate is dense and tight, with dry, spicy tannins and some oak influence, as well as attractive bitter cherry/plum fruit and good acidity. It is a hugely concentrated wine in a modern style with good potential for development. Very good/excellent (£11.95 Berry Bros & Rudd) 

San Biagio Dolchetto d'Alba 1999, Piedmont, Italy
A very deep red/purple colour. Smoky, roasted nose with notes of coffee, burnt toast and roast nuts. The concentrated palate shows robust savoury and spicy character, with some new oak apparent, and dusty tannins on the finish. A very modern-styled wine with impressive concentration, but perhaps lacking a bit of character. Very good (£8.45 Berry Bros & Rudd) 

Monte del Frá Bardolino 2000, Veneto, Italy
Monte del Frá, owned by brothers Eligio and Claudio Bonemo, is one of the most dynamic producers in this part of the Veneto. Here they've fashioned a fruity Bardolino that's dangerously easy to drink. It's a vibrant pale cherry colour, with a bright nose of sweet cherry fruit and a Beaujolais-like bubblegum edge. The palate is soft and gluggable with no rough edges: this is a simple, light, juicy wine. Good/very good (£5.95 Berry Bros & Rudd) 

Monte del Frá Bianco di Custoza 2000, Italy
Fresh, herby nose is attractively crisp with a touch of yeastiness and a lemony/floral twist. The crisp, herbal palate has good acidity and a zingy finish. A good food wine, in a fresh, full flavoured style. Very good (£5.95 Berry Bros & Rudd) 

Monte del Frá Chiaretto Bardolino 2000, Veneto, Italy
A deep orange/pink colour, this wine has a distinctive herby, fruity nose that leads to a bright herby palate with zippy acidity. Quite full flavoured compared with many rosés, with a savoury, slightly bitter, spicy finish. Interesting stuff: would make a good food match. Very good (£5.95 Berry Bros) 

Heidler Grüner Veltliner Spiegel 2000, Kamptal, Austria
A pale yellow colour, this has a subtle, rounded lemony nose with a touch of spice. The palate shows good balance, with a nice mineral character and some lemony notes, together with a peppery edge. Good extract and concentration. Pretty classy stuff, and will probably improve with short term cellaring. Finishes dry and spicy. Very good+ (£8.95 Berry Bros & Rudd)  

Heidler Grüner Veltliner Thal Novemberlese 2000, Kamptal, Austria
Lovely concentrated dry white wine: not rich textured, but with a lovely mineral extract. The spicy nose has a sweet floral, aromatic lift, with a touch of pepper. The palate is light and fresh, but with great depth and concentration and a pronounced spicy character. There's just a touch of residual sugar that adds roundness, but the wine finishes quite dry. Distinctive stuff. Very good/excellent (£10.95) 

Summerfield Reserve Shiraz 1999, Pyrenees, Victoria, Australia
An inky red/purple colour, this is a very individual wine. It has an exotic, sweet nose showing liquorice-laced, herbal, chocolatey fruit, with some cassis and cinnamon spice notes. In contrast to the sweet nose, the palate has a very dry, austere edge to it with some spicy oak and a slightly alcoholic (this baby weighs in at 15%) high-acid finish. Very concentrated, this is quite an unusual wine with real character. May develop and integrate better with time. Very good/excellent (£19.95)

Nyetimber Première Cuvée Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay Brut 1993, England
This fizz is widely regarded as the leading light of the English wine scene, and if you haven't already tried it, you really should. A full golden colour, it has a complex, mature, biscuitty, yeasty nose (it has been ageing on its lees for more than five years). The palate is savoury, dry and rich, in a classic vintage Champagne style. There's plenty of complexity here but I'd be tempted to drink this delicious wine soon, rather than banking on any further evolution. Very good+ (£16.95 Berry Bros) 

Contact details:
Berry Bros & Rudd
3 St James' Street
London SW1A 1EG
Tel: 020 7396 9600
Website: www.bbr.com

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