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Niepoort
Batuta vertical
Dirk
Niepoort's Batuta is one of
Portugal's most sought after wines. Since the first release, the 1999,
it has achieved a place among Potugal's elite. I recently (March 2004)
had the
chance to try the three vintages released so far.
I've tried the 1999
and 2000 on several separate occasions, but this was my first time
with the 2001. These are clearly very serious, impressive wines that
wiill need time to show their best. At the moment they are quite hard
to assess, but my favourite is the 2001, followed by the 1999. As with
Dirk's Redoma (first produced in 1991) the style seems to be evolving,
but Dirk is understandably happy with 2001 (I also tried the 2001
Redoma, which is more approachable, albeit still a big wine, and
combines power, wildness and finesse - it's delicious). It will be
fascinating to see how these wines evolve, and I'd expect the scores
given here to go up significantly with a few years bottle age.
Niepoort
Batuta 2001 Douro
Perfumed chocolatey, spicy nose
with some roasted notes and taut dark fruits. There’s a lovely
tight, rounded spicy structure to the palate which has more of that
roasted edge and a spicy finish. Dense, taut and concentrated this is
a young wine with a lot of potential. Refreshingly this is only 12.8%
alcohol. Two days later we retried what was left in the bottle: it was
still dense and tight, but the roasted character has diminished, which
brings the focused fruit more to the fore. Very good/excellent 94/100
Niepoort Batuta 2000 Douro
Tight herby nose is a little shy. The palate is dense, taut, spicy
and herby with great concentration of fruit and a firm structure,
together with vibrant acidity. It’s got great structure but
presently it is at a bit of an awkward stage in its development. It's
a more polite, less extreme wine than the other two. Very
good/excellent 91/100
Niepoort Batuta 1999 Douro
A little shy on the nose initially, this opens out to show ripe
red and black fruits with a savoury spicy edge. The palate shows
chewy, spicy fruit with great structure and super balance. Lots of
personality here. Good acidity underlying the vivid fruit. Some of the
initial impact that this wine had a couple of years ago has gone, and
it's yet to take on the secondary complexity that comes with age.
Patience will be required. Very
good/excellent 93/100
see
also: Dinner with Dirk Niepoort, Douro
table wine series
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