More
stunning
Madeiras from Barbeito
I’ve written about Madeira, and in particular
Barbeito,
before – here are my notes on some more of Barbeito’s Madeiras,
which are surely at the top of the quality tree. These are fascinating
wines that more than justify the relatively high prices they command.
It was especially nice to be able to try some older wines.
Barbeito 1996 Single Harvest
This is made from the Tinta Negra Mole grape, and is the follow on
from the hugely successful 1995. Lovely intense lemony, spicy nose is
quite complex and savoury. The palate is fairly rich and vivid with
spicy complexity and great intensity. Sweet but savoury at the same
time; brilliant stuff. Very good/excellent 93/100 (about £15 for a
half)
Barbeito Sercial Reserve 10 years old
Complex and spicy with a lifted lemony acid edge to the nose.
Bright high-acid palate with lovely complexity. Fresh and nutty, vivid
and rich. Really nice. Very good/excellent 92/100
Barbeito Boal Reserve Veramar
Slightly shy nutty nose with some subtle spice notes, too. The
palate is rich and concentrated and has an unusual acidic edge. Very
appealing and with great length. Quite sweet. Very good/excellent
90/100
Barbeito Boal Reserve 10 years old
Rounded, nutty caramel and spice nose is quite restrained. Nutty,
open palate with unusual acidity and great concentration. Spicy, long
finish. A thoughtful, complex wine that’s quite sweet. Very
good/excellent 91/100
Barbeito 20 year old Malvasia
Complex, intriguing nose with nutty, spicy, caramelly notes. The
palate is rich and quite sweet with good acidity. Quite powerful with
a spicy, raisiny complexity dominating. Great balance and length here.
Very good/excellent 94/100
Barbeito Verdelho 1980
Subtle, complex nose of crystalline fruits, spice and lemony
lifted acidity. Very unusual complex palate showing high acidity and a
nutty, lemony character. Interesting stuff. Very good/excellent 92/100
Barbeito Verdelho 1981 (cask sample)
Very complex intense, spicy nose with notes of tar, spice, caramel
and fudge. The palate has lovely rich complexity with high acidity in
an explosive mouthful of flavour. Quite lovely. Excellent 95/100
Barbeito Malvasia 1994 (cask sample)
This will be a single cask release. Very sweet spicy, toffee and
caramel nose. Complex, sweet and spicy on the palate with some raisiny
notes and good acidity. Nice spiciness. A rich, complex style. Very
accessible with some woody notes. Very good/excellent 92/100
Barbeito Malvasia 1885
Orange brown. Lovely complex nose of sweet raisins, tar and spice
– very beguiling. The palate is explosively rich with lovely
acidity. Deep, complex and incredibly long with some caramel and
spice. Breathtaking. Excellent 98/100
Barbeito Malvasia 1886
Profound, intense nose of tar and spice with some caramelly notes.
The palate is explosively rich with great concentration, high acidity
and complex flavours of caramel and tar. Great length. Excellent
96/100
UK agent: Raymond Reynolds
wines tasted May 2004
see
also: spotlight on Madeira; Barbeito
write up 1; Barbeito write up 2
Back to top
|