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The wines of Carnuntum, Austria
An extensive tasting
of wines from this emerging region
Carnuntum
is a small wine region in the far east of Austria, stretching from
the outskirts of Vienna to the Slovakian border. If you climb to the
top of the Braunsberg (which has some Carnuntum vineyards), near the
town of Hainburg, then you can see Bratislava. This is frontier
land, and through the centuries it has seen the sorts of military
exchanges and changes in power that border regions have always
experienced.
Spitzerberg
The vineyards are split into small scattered parcels. I spent some
time exploring the Spitzerberg, near Hainburg, which is running
along the side of a hill. This subregion has some 80 hectares,
planted on interesting soils, some with some seabed limestone
influence. These are the beginning of the Carpathians, and it's the
hillside vineyards that have the interesting terroirs. Then drive 40
minutes west, and the main part of the region is found, around the
villages of Höflein and Arbesthal. Altogether there are just under
900 hectares of vines in the region.
 Blaufrankisch
in Muhr's Liebkind vineyard, Spitzerbeg, which has very chalky soils
It
used to be a white wine region, but of late, reds have taken hold.
Now, Zweigelt dominates, with 230 hectares, and there are some 86
hectares of Blaufrankisch. Grüner Veltliner is the most important
white in volume terms, with 180 hectares, but some consider
Weissburgunder to be the white variety with most promise.
 Heathens'
Gate
Carnuntum itself, in Roman times, was a thriving city of 70 000
people. But unlike other similar sized settlements, such as London,
it didn't do well, and contracted back. Still, there is
archeological evidence of its past glories. And its Heathens' Gate,
dating back to that era, is the official symbol of the wine region.
 Braunsberg
The climate here is continental, with warm, dry summers. There's
some subregional variation, and small-scale differences with aspect
and altitude, but generally it's a little too dry for Grüner, and
Carnuntum seems to do best with red varieties such as Zweigelt and
Blaufrankisch. Merlot is often grown here, but of the international
imports, Syrah seems to show the most potential. There is no DAC yet
for Carnuntum, so growers are free to experiment.
 Zwiegelt
This tasting included most of the quality-minded producers in the
region. It was a great chance to try to understand what's going on
here, and I liked some of the wines quite a bit. But this is still a
region that's beginning to find its feet.
Tasting notes here are presented in alphabetical order by producer.
Wines were tasted sighted.
Artner Grüner Veltliner Kirchberg 2016
Gravelly
clay. 13.5% alcohol. Lively, peppery, citrussy nose. The palate has
a good concentration of citrus and pear fruit, with white pepper and
spice as well as some creamy, mealy richness. Seductive and yet
still fresh, with lots of fruit character. 91/100
Artner Zweigelt Steinäcker 2015
Danube River
gravel on sandy loam. 14.0% alcohol. Sweetly fruited with some grip
under the cherry and blackberry fruit. Has some sweet, spicy oak
here. Dense and a bit blocky. 86/100
Artner Blaufränkisch Kirchweingarten 2015
Sandy loess with argillaceous topsoil. 14.0%. Fresh and concentrated
with burly black cherry and blackberry fruit knit around a core of
grippy tannin. There's freshness as well as weight with a hint of
mint on the finish. 90/100
*
Auer Syrah Kirchtal 2015
Loess. 14.0% alcohol.
Peppery and fresh, with a slight rubbery edge to the berry fruits
nose. The palate shows sleek ripe berry fruits with a nice
pepperiness and some reductive tautness. Lovely concentration of
fruit here, together with freshness. A stylish wine with some
potential. 92/100
Auer Zweigelt Bühl 2015
Loess with veins of
sand. 14.0% alcohol. Supple and very pure with nice fresh cherry and
berry fruits. Smooth but bright, with a lovely focus on the palate.
Pure style with real appeal. 91/100
*
Böheim Grüner Veltliner Reserve Kräften 2015
Loess soils. 14.0% alcohol. This shows richness and generosity of
fruit with pears, spice and citrus. Very appealing and rounded with
some weight to it. Broad and fruit-driven. 89/100
Böheim Blaufränkisch Reserve 2015
Gravelly clay,
limestone soils. 14.0% alcohol. Complex and taut but with some
supple, generous cherry and berry fruits. Has some spicy oak
influence with some vanilla sheen. Real finesse in a very polished,
modern package. 91/100
Böheim Grüner Veltliner Privat Stuhlwerker 2015
Gravelly clay, limestone soils. 14.0%
alcohol. There's some depth and generosity to the fruit here:
nice sweet yellow plum and pear, with an appealing spicy twist.
Ripe, generous and quite delicious with broad fruit and a touch of
spicy detail. 89/100
Böheim Zweigelt, Merlot, Syrah Stuhlwerker
2011
Gravelly clay, limestone
soils. 14.0% alcohol. There's a gravelly edge to the black fruits
nose. The palate is ripe, quite chunky and structured with some
spice, gravel and tar notes as well as sleek black fruits. Nice
weight and concentration here. Dense. 90/100
*
Christian Dietrich Blaufränkisch Spitzerberg 2013
Sandy limestone. 13.5% alcohol. Supple, rounded, berryish and with
some compact fruit and a bit of structure. Nice weight. 88/100
Christian Dietrich Blaufränkisch Spitzerberg 2011
Sandy limestone. 13.5% alcohol. Soft and broad with strawberry and
raspberry fruit as well as some earth and herb character. Has some
smoothness and is showing development. 87/100
*
Claus Dietrich Grüner Veltliner Spitzerberg 2016
Sandy limestone. 12.5% alcohol. Sweetly fruited with pear and white
peach fruit, as well as a touch of table grape. Rounded and ripe.
85/100
*
Glatzer Blaufränkisch Bärnreiser 2011
Gravel, gravelly clay, veins of limestone. 13.5% alcohol. There's an
unusual sweet, fresh, pure red and black fruits character to this
wine: it's just very fruity, with a supple sort of personality.
Verging on the jammy perhaps? But still very tasty. 88/100
Glatzer St. Laurent Altenberg
2011
Danube River gravel, clay
soils. 13.0% alcohol. Showing a touch of evolution, with some sweet
herbs and red cherries on the nose. Fresh berry and cherry fruits on
the palate with a faint tar and spice undercurrent, as well as some
herbiness. Very drinkable with nicely integrated green characters
complementing the fruit. 88/100
Glatzer Chardonnay Kräften 2016
Loess soils.
13.0% alcohol. Very appealing direct citrus and pear fruit with
subtle nuts and spice. Lovely fruit character with apple and peach
richness as well as keen citrus fruit. Lively and delicious. 90/100
Glatzer Sauvignon Blanc Schüttenberg 2016
Danube
River gravel, limestone soils. 13.0%
alcohol. Pure, citrussy and fine with nice intensity and
brightness. Lovely fruit here with a sense of precision and good
acidity. 90/100
Gottschuly-Grassl Grüner Veltliner Sauvignon Blanc Reserve
Hagelsberg 2015
Loess, gravelly clay soils. 13.0%
alcohol. This is unusual: there's attractive citrus and pear fruit,
but also some nutty, cedary oak character. The two don't really mesh
all that well. 86/100
Gottschuly-Grassl Merlot Rotundo Bühl 2015
Loess with veins of sand. 14.0% alcohol. Rounded, sweet and berryish
with a smooth mid palate. Nice drinkable style showcasing polished,
sweet cherry and berry fruits. Easy and approachable. 86/100
Gottschuly-Grassl Zweigelt Hoher Weg Bühl
2015
Loess with veins of sand. 14.0% alcohol. Robust and juicy with some
spicy, cedary oak under the sweet cherry and raspberry fruit. Quite
sweet and appealing but the oak is a distraction. 87/100
*
Günther Glock Blaufränkisch Spitzerberg 2014
Sandy limestone. 13.0% alcohol. Unusual, with tea, herbs and earth
notes complementing the supple berry fruits. Has a distinct
savouriness. 86/100
*
Grassl Chardonnay Rothenberg 2016
Danube River
gravel on sandy loam. 14.0% alcohol.
Complex and lively with a balance between the sweet citrus
and pear fruit, and the nice lemony brightness. I really like the
fruit focus to this wine and the freshness and lightness it shows,
even though there's plenty of flavour. 90/100
Grassl Chardonnay Rothenberg 2015
Danube River
gravel on sandy loam. 14.0% alcohol. Highly aromatic with some grape
and citrus on the nose. The palate shows brightness of fruit with a
lovely lemony core supporting the sweeter pear and white peach
notes. Very fruit-driven with good balance. 90/100
Grassl Zweigelt, Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Bärnreiser 2015
Gravel, gravelly clay, veins of limestone soils. 14.0% alcohol.
Fresh and delicious, combining ripe sweet berry fruits with a
chalky, gravelly savouriness. It's sweetly fruited but also has
balance and some structure. Good weight here. 90/100
Grassl Zweigelt Schüttenberg
2015
Danube River gravel,
limestone soils. 13.0%. Concentrated and vivid with some oaky notes
hiding under sweet but fresh raspberry and black cherry fruit.
Combines ripeness, freshness and intensity very effectively. Lovely
depth to the fruit with some tannic structure. 91/100
Grassl
Zweigelt Schüttenberg 2011
Danube River gravel,
limestone soils. 13.0% alcohol. Concentrated and sweetly fruited
with a bit of tarry structure to the sweet black fruits. Nice
concentration and weight, together with some integrated oak
character. Quite burly: this has developed nicely with a few years
in bottle. 89/100
*
Lager Weißburgunder Gaderer 2016
Gravelly clay
soils. 13.5% alcohol. Delicacy of fruit is the hallmark here.
Grapey, pure and with a bit of citrus freshness too. Nice
concentration and focus to the palate. 89/100
Lager Zweigelt, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Schüttenberg 2012
Danube River gravel, limestone soils, 14.0% alcohol.
There's depth and harmony here with the oak now well integrated into
the sweet, smooth blackberry and black cherry fruit. The tannins
have melted a little, giving support but also some cushion to the
fruit. Has a bit of gravel on the finish. 90/100
*
Lugschitz Blaufränkisch Hundsheimerberg 2015
Calcareous loess soil. 14.0%. Very unusual sweet, aromatic jammy
cherry fruit nose. Open and a bit oxidative. The palate shows more
of this super-sweet fruit quality with some freshness and grip on
the finish. An odd wine. 85/100
Lugschitz Blaufränkisch Hundsheimerberg 2013
Calcareous loess soil. 14.5%. Peppery edge to the grippy, sweet
cherry fruit. Some plums and mint, too. A bit disjointed with a
sweet finish. 85/100
*
Gerhard Markowitsch Zweigelt, Merlot, Blaufränkisch
Rosenberg 2015
Gravel, calcareous clay soils. 14.0%
alcohol. This is direct and fresh with some grippy but integrated
structure and lovely purity. Raspberries, cherries and a touch of
pepper, too. Stylish stuff. 91/100
Gerhard Markowitsch Chardonnay Schüttenberg 2016
Danube River gravel, limestone soils. 13.0% alcohol. A
rich, concentrated style with subtle toast and nuts, as well as a
hint of honey, and a core of pear and peach fruit. Mealy and
delicious in a ripe style. 90/100
Gerhard Markowitsch Zweigelt Kirchweingarten 2015
Sandy loess with argillaceous topsoil. 13.5% alcohol.
Lovely concentration here with structured but pure cherry and
raspberry fruit. There's real balance with dense sweet fruit but
also good structure. Very refined with nice intensity and focus.
93/100
*
Lukas Markowitsch Zweigelt Haidacker 2011
Danube
River gravel, limestone soils. 13.5% alcohol. Ripe and seductive
with lush berry fruits. A tiny bit baked? Has a sweet fruit
personality, with good texture and density. 87/100
Lukas Markowitsch Chardonnay Reserve Rosenberg 2015
Gravel, calcareous clay soils. 13.5% alcohol. Nicely
concentrated, generous pear and peach fruit with some spice and a
bit of citrus freshness. Nice weight and texture. Has a fruit
sweetness. 88/100
Lukas Markowitsch Zweigelt Haidacker 2015
Danube
River gravel, limestone soils. 14.0%
alcohol. Sweetly aromatic, showing lush, almost jammy fruit
together with some oak character. Sweet, alluring but soft and
formless too. 85/100
Lukas Markowitsch Chardonnay Reserve Rosenberg 2013
Gravel, calcareous clay soils. 13.5% alcohol. Nutty,
peachy, broad and generous but showing nice spiciness and a bit of
citrus. Finishes a bit cedary and woody. 87/100
*
Muhr-van der Niepoort Blaufränkisch Spitzerberg 2010
Sandy limestone. 12.5% alcohol. Mature with notes of green tea,
earth and herbs, as well as some cherry fruit. The palate is light
and elegant with nice developed cherry fruit and a fine spiciness.
Drinking well now. 91/100
Muhr-van der Niepoort Blaufränkisch Spitzerberg 2013
Sandy limestone. 13.0% alcohol. Fresh and direct with a lovely
elegance to the mid-weight herb-tinged raspberry and red cherry
fruit. There's a hint of herby, savoury complexity here with nice
balance and drinkability. 89/100
*
Nadler Zweigelt Stuhlwerker 2015
Gravelly clay,
limestone soils. 13.5% alcohol. A touch of appley lift on the nose,
with some jammy raspberry fruit. Vivid, modern black cherry and
raspberry fruit palate with some oxidative appley notes, too. Tasty
but the oxidative notes worry me a little. 86/100
Nadler Zweigelt Gugelberg 2015
Sandy clay soils.
13.5% alcohol. Beautifully focused cherry fruit nose with some
raspberry freshness, and a hint of oak. Very fresh and pure on the
palate with a sheen of oak adding polish to the fresh, bright fruit
character. Really well made, but needs a while for the oak to settle
down. 90/100
*
Franz
& Christine Netzl Sauvignon Blanc Schüttenberg 2015
Danube River gravel, limestone soils. 14.0% alcohol. Some breadth
and generosity to the rounded, fruity palate. This has a softness of
texture and lovely depth. Smooth and more-ish in quite a ripe style.
89/100
Franz & Christine Netzl Zweigelt Haidacker 2013
Danube River gravel, limestone soils. 13.5% alcohol. This shows a
really nice peppery edge to the bright berry fruits on the nose. The
palate is fresh and vivid with red cherries and plums, as well as
some juiciness. Very peppery and delicious. 91/100
Franz & Christine Netzl Weißburgunder Bärnreiser 2016
Gravel, gravelly clay, veins of limestone soils. 13.5%
alcohol. Good concentration of sweet citrus and pear fruit with a
lively spiciness, nice acidity and a broad, slightly grapey
mid-palate. Rounded and tasty, with some fruit sweetness. 89/100
Franz & Christine Netzl Zweigelt, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
Anna-Christina Bärnreiser 2011
Gravel, gravelly clay,
veins of limestone soils. 14.0% alcohol. Gravelly and intense with
dense, sweet black fruits and a chalky, mineral underpinning. Lots
of sweet fruit. Has freshness and also structure. Quite sweet.
89/100
*
Martin Netzl Zweigelt Rosenberg 2015
Gravel,
calcareous clay soils. 13.5% alcohol. Tannic and a bit grippy but
with lovely direct cherry and berry fruits. Has nice freshness and
focus. Quite delicious. 90/100
Martin Netzl Blaufränkisch Spitzerberg 2013
Sandy limestone. 13.5% alcohol. Finely spiced with some raspberry
and cherry fruit, and hints of ginger and herbs. Supple with nice
weight and balance to the palate. 87/100
Martin Netzl Grüner Veltliner Stoana Steinriegel 2016
Danube River gravel, sand soils. 14.0% alcohol. This is
ripe, broad and very smooth, with pear, grape and white peach fruit
notes. Soft and rounded, it's not very Gruner but it's tasty. 87/100
Martin Netzl, Gelber Traminer Steinriegel
2016
Danube River gravel, sand
soils. 14.0% alcohol. Incredibly aromatic with table grapes, spice,
lemon and lychee on the nose. Textured and fruity on the palate with
a sophisticated mouth feel and smooth, grapey fruit. Quite delicious
and more-ish. 90/100
*
Ott Grüner Veltliner Gabler 2016
Danube River gravel soils. 12.5% alcohol. Lively citrus fruit nose
with a hint of pepper. Dry and linear on the palate with appealing
citrus fruits and a touch of herbiness. Has a bit of structure, too.
Grippy finish. 89/100
Ott Chardonnay Reserve Hagelsberg
2015
Loess, gravelly clay soils.
13.5% alcohol. Pretty, fruity and a bit grapey with some pear and
citrus, as well as some spice. There's even a hint of mint here.
86/100
Ott Zweigelt Rubin Carnuntum Hagelsberg 2015
Loess, gravelly clay. 13.5% alcohol. Beautifully vivid and intense
with nice grip to the sweet raspberry and black cherry fruit.
There's some warm oak spice here, it seems, which is a bit of a
distraction, but the fruit is just lovely. 90/100
*
Payr Grüner Veltliner Rothenberg 2015
Danube River gravel on sandy loam. 14.0% alcohol.
Fresh, vivid, pithy and quite intense with a slight oiliness
to the citrus fruit. Structured and a bit grippy. Some herbs. 87/100
Payr Zweigelt, Merlot, Blaufränkisch Reserve Bühl 2013
Loess with veins of sand. 14.5% alcohol. Fresh, bright and a bit
peppery. Red berries and cherries with a savoury, cedary spiciness
on the palate. Attractive. 88/100
Payr Zweigelt, Merlot Blaufränkisch Reserve Bühl 2011
Loess with veins of sand. 14.0% alcohol. Supple and
berryish with red cherries and plums. Midweight with a savoury,
slightly spicy twist. Very drinkable and digestible with appealing
sweet fruit. Balanced. 90/100
Payr Zweigelt Reserve Steinäcker 2013
Danube River gravel on sandy loam. 14.5% alcohol.
Distinctive peppery nose with sleek black fruits. The palate is
concentrated and fresh with high acidity, firm tannins, and a very
peppery quality as well as ripe black fruits. Unusual. 88/100
Payr Zweigelt Reserve Steinäcker 2011
Danube River gravel on sandy loam. 14.0% alcohol. Supple, sweetly
fruited and well integrated, with some pepper alongside the sweet
blackberry fruit. Has nice freshness and structure too. A ripe,
sweetly fruited wine, but in balance. 90/100
Payr Blaufränkisch Reserve Spitzerberg 2011
Sandy limestone. 13.5% alcohol. Showing some development, this has
some earthy notes as well as herbs and spice. Some damson
bitterness, too. 87/100
Payr Blaufränkisch Reserve Spitzerberg 2008
Sandy limestone. 13.5% alcohol. Supple, mature and quite elegant
with ripe cherries and plums as well as a fine herbiness. Smooth and
very drinkable. 90/100
*
Gerhard Pimpel Rosenberg Merlot Optime 2015
Gravel, calcareous clay soils. 14.0% alcohol. Peppery and bright
with attractive berry fruits, and a really nice texture to the
palate. There's some structure, but it doesn't stick out. Supple,
fruity and very drinkable, but with a hint of seriousness. 90/100
*
Pelzmann
Blaufränkisch Spitzerberg 2013
Sandy limestone. 13.0% alcohol. Peppery and a bit earthy with a
spicy savouriness and supple berry fruits. A tiny bit murky. 86/100
*
Riedmüller Chardonnay Braunsberg 2016
Sandy loam with veins of clay. 12.5% alcohol. There's a stony edge
to the sweet pear and citrus fruit. Has some creamy notes, too.
84/100
Riedmüller Zweigelt, Merlot, Blaufränkisch Braunsberg 2013
Sandy loam with veins of clay. 13.0% alcohol. Supple cherry fruit
here. Midweight with a slightly baked edge to the fruit. 85/100
Riedmüller Blaufränkisch Braunsberg
2011
Sandy loam with veins of
clay. 13.0% alcohol. Slight
touch of earthy beetroot under the cherry and plum fruit. Has some
apple notes, too. Midweight and fruity. 83/100
Riedmüller Blaufränkisch Spitzerberg 2012
Sandy limestone. 13.5%. Smooth and rounded with sweet berry and
cherry fruit. Some mid-palate softness with a smooth fruit quality.
Ripe style. 86/100
*
Taferner Cabernet Sauvignon Tribun Haidacker 2015
Danube River gravel, limestone soils. 14.5% alcohol. Fresh,
bright, direct and berryish with a mid-weight personality and
appealing sweet berry fruits. Some generosity here, but also some
grippy structure. 88/100
Taferner Zweigelt Bärnreiser 2015
Gravel,
gravelly clay, veins of limestone soils. 14.0% alcohol. Bright and
vivid with a sweet, creamy undercurrent to the direct raspberry and
cherry fruit. Generous, with a seductive side, but not lacking
freshness. 87/100
Taferner Chardonnay Schüttenberg 2015
Danube
River gravel, limestone soils. 13.5% alcohol. Pretty, broad and rich
with a floral, grapey, almost musky edge to the sweet pear and peach
fruit. Has depth and richness but also some freshness. A pretty,
plump wine. 88/100
*
Trapl Blaufränkisch Spitzerberg 2013
Sandy limestone. 13.0% alcohol. Peppery and spicy with a distinct
dried herb and leather character as well as sweet and sour cherry
and plum fruit. 85/100
Trapl Blaufränkisch Spitzerberg 2015
Sandy limestone. 13% alcohol. Fresh, open and rounded with sweet
cherry and raspberry fruit. Has a smoothness and some development on
the palate. Drinking very well with no rough edges. 89/100
Trapl Weißburgunder Gaisberg 2016
Sandy clay, limestone soils.
13.0% alcohol. Yellow colour, with a bit of haze. Beautifully
focused nose with spicy citrus fruit. Very fine on the palate with
lovely acidity and a mealy, spicy edge to the citrus fruit. Has
complexity and finesse. Very fine. 94/100
Trapl Weißburgunder Gaisberg 2013
Sandy
clay, limestone soils. 13.0% alcohol. Spicy and lively, with keen
citrus fruit and some toasty, nutty oak influence. Broad and
textured but also with lovely focus. Give the oak time to integrate:
this is a lovely wine. 93/100
Wines
tasted 08/17
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