wines of Larry Cherubino
Cherubino, The Yard and Ad Hoc - from the master of Western
Larry Cherubino is an experienced ‘flying’ winemaker, with
experience in Australia, New Zealand and the California. In 2005 he
started his own wine company, making wines from leading regions in
Western Australia. Larry knows these regions well, and is able to
source grapes from some excellent vineyards, taking in Pemberton,
Frankland River and Mount Barker.
the basis of these recent tastings (all these wines were actually
drunk, rather than just given a quick slurp and spit), his wines are
worth seeking out with some urgency. There are three tiers to the
range: Cherubino is the top label, then comes The Yard, and then Ad
Hoc. I really like the freshness and definition that he is getting
from these cool climate sites, and I’m convinced that these
Western Australian appellations are among the most exciting in the
new world for fine wine production.
Hoc Hen and Chicken Chardonnay 2009 Pemberton, Western Australia
13.5% alcohol. Taut, fine, minerally, nutty nose is nicely
savoury with smoke and spice notes. The palate is savoury and
minerally with some herbal, nutty notes and toasty characters.
Restrained and distinctive with some reduction. Food friendly.
91/100 (£13.99 The Vineyard [Dorking], Kevin O’Rourke) 08/10
Hoc Straw Man Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Pemberton, Western Australia
12.5% alcohol. Precise, fresh and bright with nice rounded fruit
character, and a hint of green pepper and subtle grapefruit. Nice
purity, balance and delicacy. 88/100 (£13.99 Campbell & Sons,
Universal Liquor Mart, Classic Wine Direct) 08/10
Hoc Wallflower Riesling 2009 Mount Barker, Western Australia
11% alcohol. Very fine, crisp, lively, minerally nose. The
palate is fine and fresh with lovely acidity and crisp delicate
limey notes. Quite fine and nicely poised. 91/100 (£13.99 Campbell
& Sons, The Vineyard, Kevin O’Rourke) 08/10
Yard Riesling Whispering Hill Vineyard 2009 Mount Barker, Western
11.5% alcohol. Very tight lemony, limey, mineral nose is pure
and bright. The palate is intense and savoury with lovely purity and
really fine grapefruit character, as well as a mineral finish.
Tight, pure, intense and refined. Dry style. 92/100 (£15.99 Kevin
Hoc Middle of Everywhere Shiraz 2008 Frankland River, Western
14.5% alcohol. Fresh raspberry and dark cherry fruit nose with a
slightly stern savoury earth and spice edge to the palate. Spice,
meat, clove and pepper notes, too. Fresh and vivid with an angular,
savoury dimension. Nice fusion of new and old world styles. 90/100 (£13.99
The Vineyard, Universal Liquor Mart, Chivertons, Kevin O’Rourke)
Yard Acacia Vineyard Shiraz 2008 Frankland River, Western Australia
14% alcohol. Beautifully aromatic with floral dark cherry and
berry notes as well as white pepper, clove and olive characters. The
palate is smooth with complex, elegant and savoury blackberry and
dark cherry fruit with some grippy spiciness. Sweet and stylish, and
elegant. 93/100 (£18.99 The Vineyard, Butlers Wine Cellars, Kevin
O’Rourke, Universal Liquor Mart) 08/10
The Yard Riversdale Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Frankland
River, Western Australia
Amazing stuff: concentrated, intense, chalky, fine structured,
this is rich byt well balanced, and shows fine-grained tannins.
Wonderfully intense and fresh with great concentration. 95/100
Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Margaret River
Wonderfully intense blackcurrant fruit nose with a chalky edge.
The palate shows dense blackcurrant and berry fruits, which are
smooth and sweet, but with lovely texture and freshness.
Concentrated yet fine, this is a thrilling wine. 94/100 (06/09)
Hoadley: Castelli and La Violetta
Park with Jeremy Gordon
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com