Next time you fancy visiting California wine country, consider
giving Napa and Sonoma a miss and instead visiting Santa Barbara
County. Just two hours' drive northwards from LA, you'll find it less
crowded and possibly more interesting; home to a bunch of energetic,
creative producers, among the best of which is Au Bon Climat. Begun in
1982 as a partnership between Adam Tolmach (who now runs Ojai) and Jim
Clenenden (you'll probably have seen lots of pictures of him -- he
looks a bit like a 1980s heavy metal lead guitarist, just off the set
of Spinal Tap), they quickly established a stellar reputation
for their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (a bewildering range of different
bottlings of each). The grapes for these wines come mostly from the
Santa Ynez and Santa Maria Valleys, which are both cooled down by the
coastal fogs, and have extremely low rainfall. Some are also sourced
from the Arroyo Grande and Edna Valleys, further up towards San Luis
Obispo on the Central Coast. The good news: most of these wines are
pretty interesting and some of them are excellent, especially the
Pinot Noirs, and bearing in mind this is California the prices are
pretty sane (approximate UK retail price is given in brackets). The
only wine I didn't like was the Cold Heaven Viognier, which I thought
was weird and a poor effort. I'm not sure I'd buy these Chardonnays in
preference to equivalently priced Burgundies, but with the Pinot Noirs
it would be a hard call. Suffice to say, I was pretty impressed.
Wild Boy Chardonnay 1999
Starts off with a nice, restrained nose, but the palate is like a
caricature of Californian Chardonnay, with bags of new oak and
concentrated tropical fruit flavours. I seem to remember reading
somewhere that Jim Clenenden made this wine as a tongue-in-cheek jibe
at the Californian style, which would explain why this is so at odds
with the rest of the range. Very good, but odd
Santa Barbara County Chardonnay 1999, Santa Barbara County
Nice rich nutty nose shows complex toasty and fruity notes. The
palate is classy, nutty and intense. It's a very savoury style with
some rich but high-quality oaking. Very good+ (£14)
Chardonnay Reserve Le Bouge D'à Côte, Bien Nacido Vineyard
1998, Santa Maria Valley
There's a smoky, almost vegetal edge to the nose. This is a
powerful style, with a savoury, nutty palate. Quite an austere style,
with a very distinct savoury oaky character. It's still quite tight.
Very good+ (£18)
Chardonnay Alban Vineyard 1998, Edna Valley
Very intense, smoky nose shows spicy, nutty notes and some toast
and figgy fruit. The intense, savoury palate displays smoky, toasty,
caramel and coffee notes, and there's good acidity. A very bold wine,
quite oaky, but still classy. Very good/excellent (£27)
Chardonnay Sandford and Benedict Vineyard 1998, Santa Ynez
Valley
Ripe elegant nose, with a rounded, toasty, nutty character and
rich caramel and toffee notes. Full and quite rounded on the palate.
This is a classy Chardonnay in a ripe style, and it's well balanced
despite the oak. Very good/excellent (£27)
Chardonnay Talley Vineyard 1998, Arroyo Grande Valley
The attractively open, nutty and toasty nose shows ripe fruit. The
palate is nicely textured, with buttery fruit and nutty, toasty oak,
together with some toffee notes. This is riper and fuller than some of
the other Chardonnays here. Very good+ (£18)
Pinot Mondeuse 1999, Santa Maria Valley
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Mondeuse. Lovely intense nose with rich,
herby, pungent fruit. Relatively firm tannic palate with some green
olive notes. Good concentration; and interesting wine. Very good+
(£14)
Pinot Noir Sandford & Benedict 1998, Santa Ynez Valley
Pale colour. Sweet spicy nose with some savoury cherry notes. Very
savoury and spicy on the palate; quite rich in character, this is
impressive. Very good/excellent. (£27)
Pinot Noir Laetitia & Rincon 1998, Arroyo Grande Valley
Quite pale in colour. Lovely pungent cherry and herb nose is
profound and complex. The palate is rich and powerful with some lovely
medicinal notes and cherryish fruit. Real interest here. Complex.
Excellent (£27)
La Bauge Au Dessus Pinot Noir 1999
Lovely pungent herby/cherry nose with some smoky notes. The palate
shows attractive, rich, savoury dark-cherry fruit and smoky, toasty
notes. With good concentration, this is a rich wine. A touch of
undergrowth adds complexity. Lovely stuff. Excellent
Pinot Noir Knox Alexander 1998, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa
Maria Valley
In a huge bottle, and with a different label than the others. A
premium wine from the top of the Bien Nacido vineyard, this is one of
two top cuvées from Au Bon Climat. Lovely, complex herby, spicy,
medicinal nose, this is lovely stuff that is varietally true. Quite a
splendid palate: savoury, rich, complex and still balanced, with ripe
berry elements and great power. Excellent (£33)
Ici La-bas Les Révelées 1998 Pinot Noir, Mendocino
Jim Clenenden's own label. This is a restrained Pinot Noir, with a
nice savoury palate with some leafy, savoury fruit. Quite understated
with a toasty edge. Very good+ (£27)
Cold Heaven Viognier 1998, Sandford and Benedict Vineyard, Santa
Barbara County
Launched with Clenenden's second wife, this is a weird wine. It's
very concentrated and there is a pronounced herbal character to the
nose. The palate is slightly bizarre with a herbal tinge to the fat
spicy fruit. There's a hot finish. Poor. (£20)
UK agents Morris and Verdin, Tel: 020 7357 8866