wines of Allegrini, Veneto, Italy
One of Valpolicella's leading producers reviewed
Tha Valpolicella region is in the eastern
part of the Veneto in Italy’s north east. There are 6000 hectares
of vines in the appellation, with reds the focus. Three grape
varieties dominate production: Corvina, Rondinella and Corvinone.
However, other varieties are used in lesser quantities, such as
Molinara and Oseleta (see my article on discovering ‘new’ old
varieties in the region).
Much of what is produced here isn’t all
that interesting, but there are some top producers, and Allegrini is
one of them. The family
have been in the region since the 16th century, and currently make
wines with real personality, bridging tradition and modernity with
They have 90 hectares of vineyards in the
heart of the region, trained using a mix of the classical pergola
system (3000 vines/hectare) and more modern vertical shoot
positioned canopies (5000 vines/hectare).
Allegrini Soave 2010
80% Garganega, 20% Chardonnay, no oak. Focused, bright, fresh and
fruity with good acidity and a pithy, citrussy core. Nice presence
and acidity. 86/100
Allegrini Valpolicella 2010
Aged in stainless steel. Fresh, aromatic, bright cherry fruit nose.
Lovely fruitiness. The palate shows pure cherry fruit with some nice
grip on the finish. Very pure and fruity. 88/100
Allegrini Valpolicella Superiore 2008
Aged in oak. Nice fresh cherry and plum fruit framed by some
savoury, spicy notes. Nice depth and structure, with a hint of tarry
spiciness. Lively and fruity. 89/100
Allegrini Plazzo della Torre2008 IGT
30% air dried grapes, with 70% fresh, and contains 5% Sangiovese.
Silky smooth, pure and fresh with
nice elegance. Lovely ripe, sweet cherry and plum fruit with a bit
of grippy structure. Nice richness yet still shows finesse. 91/100
Allegrini La Grola 2008 IGT Veronese
80% Corvina, 20% Syrah, from a single vineyard. Silky smooth,
ripe and pure with vivid, well defined bright cherry and berry
fruit. Nice focus here with sweet fruit and good acidity, as well as
some structure. Lovely wine. 92/100
Allegrini La Poja 2006 IGT Veronese
100% Corvina. Rich blackcurrant fruit nose with some notes of
spice, cedar and balsamic vinegar. The palate has noticeable oak
influence but also some elegance. Rich, spicy and a bit toasty.
Almost like a Bordeaux take on Valpolicella. 90/100
Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella
Lifted, warm, richly aromatic spice and ripe cherry fruit nose.
The palate is ripe and bold with lovely richness and some spicy,
tarry, cedary notes. Powerful and focused with sweet ripe fruit.
Wines tasted September 2011
Older report, from November 2000:
To most people, the name Valpolicella
conjures up images of thin, bitter, acidic plonkish reds, and it
wouldn't be entirely unfair to say that's what most of it is like.
But not all. Some conscientious producers, such as Allegrini, make
fascinating, delicious wines. And overall, I was delighted this
excellent range from one of the leading lights of Valpolicella. The
1999 Classico is delicious and forward, and La Grola 1997 is a fine
drop, but the three stand-outs were La Poja 1996 (a blockbuster,
bursting with flavour), the Amarone Classico (fascinating, exotic
wine) and the Recioto (a concentrated, characterful sweet red wine).
I'm not sure of the availability or prices of these wines on the UK
market, but they're definitely worth seeking out.
Classico 1999 DOC
Corvina Veronese, 35% Rondinella, 5% Molinara. Yield 69 hl/ha from
pergola-trained vines. Deep red/purple colour, with a herby, leafy
nose. Full, tannic and attractive palate with bitter red fruits -- a
lovely, appealing wine for drinking young. Very good+
Palazzo Della Torre 1997 Veronese IGT
70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 5% Sangiovese. Yield 64 hl/ha from
pergola-trained vines. 70% of the grapes are vinified immediately;
30% are left to dry until the end of December and are then
refermented with the wine from the fresh grapes. Deep purple/red,
with a cherry and herb nose. Full, rounded and balanced palate, with
savoury cherry fruit. Smooth and deep. Very good.
La Grola 1997 Veronese IGT
70% Corvina, 15% Rondinella, 10% Syrah, 5% Sangiovese. Double
Guyot trained vines of average age 18 years; grapes hand harvested;
yield 55 hl/ha. Showing impressive concentration, this has nice
bitter red fruits on the nose, with some sweet herbs. Bold, strong
palate of herbs, cherries and some wood, with an attractive
bitterness. Good balance and some complexity. Very good +
La Poja 1996 Veronese IGT
100% Corvina Veronese from a single vineyard of 2 ha. Double
Guyot trained vines, yield of 40 hl/ha. Deep red/black colour.
Pungent, spicy nose with complex medicinal notes. Rich, sweet fruit
on the palate with firm, dry, spicy tannins. This is a real
blockbuster -- utterly delicious. Excellent.
Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico
75% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 5% Molinara. Pergola-trained vines,
average age 25 years, yield of 37 hl/ha. Grapes dried naturally for
100 days with 45% loss of weight. This is exotic, wild stuff.
Lovely, unusual bitter nose, with a bit of volatility. Full
flavoured with a lovely sweet/sour palate of cherries, with an
attractive bitterness, some tannins and a touch of sweetness. Very
Grovani Allegrini Recioto Della
Valpolicella Classico 1997
75% Corvina Veronese, 20% Rondinella, 5% Molinara. Pergola
training, average vine age 25 years, 28 hl/ha yields. Natural drying
of grapes for 130 days with a loss of 50% loss of the original
weight. A delicious red dessert wine. Lovely nose of sweet herbs,
bitter cherries and with a touch of caramel. On the palate this is
very sweet, but with wonderful exotic flavours and a nice bitterness
countering the sweetness. Quite wonderful; gorgeous concentration.
(Tasted November 2000)
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