A & B Vintners are a mail-order/internet merchant who
specialize in (and concentrate almost exclusively on) wines from the
Rhône, Languedoc-Roussillon and Burgundy. The good news for customers
is that smaller merchants such as this can cherry pick the smaller
production wines that simply aren't made in big enough quantities to
satisfy the larger retailers. And A & B (otherwise known as John
Arnold and Ken Brook) have done a pretty good job in putting together
a focused, well chosen list of wines at reasonable prices. It's worth
getting on their mailing list because a lot of the more sought-after
wines tend to sell out en primeur and never make the regular list,
although the wines shown at this tasting are mostly still available.
I'm dividing my write-up into three parts: first the Burgundies, the Rhône wines and
the South of France. It was a
well-run tasting, with decent Riedel glasses, plenty of room, and
self-pouring (this tends to be rare in consumer tastings, but it makes
the whole process a lot quicker and more convenient).
See also: part 1, Burgundy; part
3, the South of France
Roger Sabon Lirac 'Chapelle de Maillac' 1999
Rather a pale colour, with a nice meaty, smoky nose. Quite a
substantial medium-bodied palate with some nice southern character and
a touch of spiciness. Very good+ (£8.22)
Rabasse-Charavin Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne Cuvée
d'Estevenas 1998
The name is a bit of a mouthful, but this is a breathtaking
expression of Grenache from ancient vines and low yields. I was blown
away by the full-on, attractive, fragrant and peppery nose. This leads
to a palate displaying concentrated, ripe spicy fruit with a touch of
sweetness to it. Very good/excellent (£10.67)
Moulin de la Gardette Gigondas Cuvée Ventabren 1997
Lovely slightly stinky, meaty nose, along with some peppery
Grenache notes: expressive but not 'modernized'. There's some
structure on the palate, with spicy tannins. It's quite austere, but
with good concentration. A first-rate Gigondas. Very good+ (£13.60)
Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas 1999
Sweet liquoricey fruit meshes with some complex heral notes on the
nose. Quite a lush, modern style. Palate is dense and rich but with
some substantial tannic structure. Finishes dry. A serious effort but
a little stern at the moment, though. Very good/excellent (£10.67)
Font de Michelle Châteauneuf du Pape 1999
Sweet herbal nose with some jammy fruit and a caramel and medicine
edge. Dense palate is quite typical of Châteauneuf, with spicy
tannins on the finish. Interesting stuff, and not in the oaky modern
style. Interesting and very enjoyable. Very good+ (£12.63)
Domaine de la Charbonnière Cuvée Mourre des Perdrix
Châteauneuf du Pape 1999
Relatively muted slightly spicy nose. Quite a dense, rich style
but with dry, dusty tannins. Relatively closed at the moment; some new
wood here? Very good (£13.60)
Bosquet des Papes Cuvée Classique Châteauneuf du Pape 1999
Attractive nose with complex herby and spice elements, and a touch
of liquorice. Very enticing and classy. Savoury palate with dense,
spicy, peppery fruit. A very good example of Châteauneuf du Pape, and
potentially ageworthy. Very good/excellent (£13.12)
Jean-Louis Chave Saint Joseph Offerus 1999
A negociant wine from possibly the best producer in the Northern
Rhône. It's a deep red/purple colour with striking meaty nose showing
some lively peppery notes. The palate is intensely savoury with more
meaty Syrah fruit and quite a firm tannic edge. There's a high-acid
finish to this substantial wine. Very good/excellent (£12.14)
Domaine des Remizières Saint Joseph 1999
An opaque red/purple colour this wine has a sexy, ostentatious
nose of sweet, tarry, oaky fruit with a toasty edge. The palate shows
savoury, roasted raspberry fruit with great concentration. Very modern
and full, this is a striking wine which some will really love,
although it's a little too oaky for my palate. Very good+ (£10.18)
Gilles Barge Côte Rôtie Cuvée du Plessy 1998
Wonderful open nose showing beautifully complex perfumed, meaty
Syrah fruit, with a herbal green olive edge. The palate is intensely
savoury and nicely balanced, with meaty, herbal fruit and substantial
structure from the tannins and acidity. I'd leave for a little while
before drinking though. Excellent (£18.50)
Contact details:
A&B Vintners
John Arnold/Ken Brook
Little Tawsden
Spout Lane
Brenchley
Kent TN12 7AS
Tel: 01892 724977 Fax: 01892 722673
E-mail: info@abvintners.co.uk
Web: www.abvintners.co.uk