Tasting 20 dry Rieslings from around the globe,
One of the highlights of the recent (July 2016)
event in Seattle were the two grand tastings.
The first, reported here, was of dry Riesling, where a cut-off of 10
g/litre residual sugar was used.
my notes here, as written. I've also included the analytic data
(none of the German wines have pH levels because they don't
routinely measure these). Analytic data only tell part of the story,
of course. There's so much going on affecting the perception of
these wines than sugar and acid levels.
There were a
few surprises here. I'm listing them in score order.
Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling GG Reserve 2012 Mosel, Germany
12.5% alcohol, 7.6 g/l acid, 7.8 g/l sugar.
Powerful, linear and spicy with lovely marmalade, lemons, pears and
ripe apple. Great concentration here. Intense and vivid with lovely
Brooks Ara Riesling 2012 Oregon
12% alcohol, 7.7 g/l acid, 9.8 g/l sugar, pH 3.07.
Really aromatic with sweet limey fruits on the nose. Stony and
intense with lovely aromatics. Structured, pithy palate with so much
Battenfeld-Spanier Riesling GG Frauenberg 2014? Rheinhessen, Germany
13% alcohol, 6.7 g/l acid, 4 g/l sugar.
Very linear and focused with lovely purity to the citrus, nut and
spice palate. Linear with some pear and apple notes, too. Lovely
detail and some stoniness underpinning the fruit. 93/100
Wittman Morstein GG Riesling 2014 Pfalz, Germany
13% alcohol, 7.1 g/l acid, 2.2 g/l sugar.
Stony and linear with nice citrus fruit. Very mineral with a stony
core and a nice saline edge. Dry, bright and detailed with a firm
Okonomeiral Rebholz Kastanienbusch GG Riesling 2014 Pfalz, Germany
12% alcohol, 7 g/l acid, 5.5 g/l rs.
Rounded, textural and pure with lively tangerine and lemon notes.
Rounded and textural with nice weight. Very generous and has lovely
Emmerich Knoll Reid Schütt Riesling Smaragd 2013 Wachau, Austria
13% alcohol, 7.3 g/l acid, 5 g/l sugar.
Very delicate and textural with lovely citrus fruit. Nice weight
with pear and apple notes. Lovely precision and texture. 93/100
Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge Riesling 2015 Great Southern,
12.8% alcohol, 6.8 g/l acid, 4.8 g/l sugar, pH 2.9.
Delicate and fresh with fine expressive citrus fruit, as well as
herbs and tangerines. Very fine with lovely delicacy. 92/100
Pike’s The Merle Riesling 2015 Clare Valley, Australia
12.5% alcohol, pH 2.83, 7.9 g/l acid, 3 g/l rs.
Very pure, linear, focused citrus fruit. Stony and linear with high
Hugel Grossi Laüe Riesling 2010 Alsace, France
13.2% alcohol, 7.9 g/l acid, 6.5 g/l sugar, pH 3.09.
Honeyed, appley and distinctive, with ripe fruit, some texture and a
bit of nuttiness. Sweet pear and apple fruit: honeyed and broad.
Albert Mann Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg 2014 Alsace, France
13% alcohol, 8.8 g/l acid, 7 g/l sugar.
Herbs, wax and tangerines and lemons. Quite powerful and citrussy
with high acid and a strong stony edge. 91/100
Tantalus Old Vines Riesling 2013 Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada
13.1% alcohol, 10/7 g/l acid, 9.8 g/l sugar, pH 2.75.
Very high acidity with some development. Waxy, nutty and earthy with
a pithy character. Dry with high acidity. 91/100
Hidden Bench Roman’s Block Riesling 2014 Niagara, Canada
10.5% alcohol, 10.9 g/l acid, 10.2 g/l sugar, pH 2.84.
Tight with very high acidity. Linear, showing bright lemons. Pithy
and linear with lime, pith and spice notes. Such acidity! 91/100
Ravine Wine Cellars Dry Riesling 2014 Finger Lakes, New York
12.5% alcohol, 8.2 g/l acid, 4 g/l rs, pH 3.18.
Herby with nice pithiness. Dense with robust fruitiness. Full
flavoured with nice body. 91/100
Newt Cellars The Knoll Dry Riesling 2014 Finger Lakes, New York
12.6% alcohol, 7.5 g/l acid, 5 g/l sugar, pH 3.1.
Rounded and lively with some apple and tangerine, as well as a hint
of mint. Nice weight with some sweet notes. 91/100
Christmann Idig GG Riesling 2014 Pfalz, Germany
12.7% alcohol, 7 g/l acid, 2 g/l sugar.
Sweetly aromatic and very fruity with some tangerine notes. Quite
gentle and pretty with nice texture. 90/100
Balo Vineyards Dry Riesling 2014 Anderson Valley, California
12.5% alcohol, 8.3 g/l acid, 4.5 g/l sugar, pH 3.16.
Stony, creamy nose. Powerful palate is stony and vivid with
minerality and some breadth, showing white peaches and grapes.
Mari Vineyards Scriptorium Riesling 2015 Old Mission Peninsula,
12.3% alcohol, 9.7 g/l acid, 6 g/l sugar, pH 3.1.
Fresh and aromatic with herb-tinged lemony fruit on the nose. Pure,
clean and dry with a juicy, talcy, lemony character. Pretty wine
with some structure. 90/100
Chateau Ste Michelle Dry Riesling 2014 Columbia Valley, Washington
12.5% alcohol, 7.3 g/l acid, 8.4 g/l sugar, pH 2.88.
Limey and pithy with bright sweet citrus and apple fruit. Linear and
zippy with nice precision. Juicy. 90/100
Pichler Kellerberg Riesling 2014 Wachau, Austria
13% alcohol, 7.5 g/l acid, 5.5 g/l sugar.
Very stony and mineral. Waxy, creamy and nutty. Quite unusual with a
strong stony character. A bit odd. 88/100
Barry The Florita Riesling 2012 Clare Valley, Australia
12.3% alcohol, 6.9 g/l acid, 3.5 g/l sugar, pH 3.
Pithy with pear, citrus and herbs. Direct wine with nice depth.
Simple, fruity and with a rounded texture. 88/100
of BC: Canadian Riesling and Pinot takes on the world
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com