Julien Sunier is one of the rising stars of Beaujolais. He makes wines naturally from organically managed vineyards, and this is a brilliant expression of Gamay.
It’s from a single 2.4 hectare vineyards named ‘Niagara’. It’s a steep slope that can only be managed manually (he quips on his excellent website that those who work here are in top physical condition), and the soils are granite. It’s just such a fine, supple, detailed wine. This is why I love Gamay.
Julien Sunier Fleurie 2013 Beaujolais, France
12% alcohol. Aromatic and fine with floral, peppery raspberry fruit with some red cherries, and just a hint of earth. The palate is perfectly poisde: it’s not heavy, but it doesn’t lack concentration, with fine red cherries, pot pourri notes and a fine peppery spiciness, as well as some stony mineral notes. It’s a wine that combines joyful drinkability with complexity and a bit of structure, and given careful storage, I reckon this could develop. 94/100 (UK availability Berry Bros & Rudd and Roberson, £22)
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- Gamay 1 – RPM Gamay Noir California
- Gamay 2 – Domaine Metrat Chiroubles ‘La Scandaleuse’
- Gamay 3 – Orofino, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia
- Gamay 4 – Julien Sunier Fleurie
- Gamay 5- Radford Dale Thirst Gamay, South Africa
- Gamay 6 – Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon Javernières ‘Les Impénitents’
- Gamay 7 – Hauts de Chasselay, Coteaux du Lyonnais
- Gamay 8 – Serol Les Originelles, Cote Roannaise
- Gamay 9 – Te Mata Gamay Noir, Hawkes Bay
- Gamay 10 – Puy de Dome, Auvergne
- Gamay 11 – Beauregard Fleurie
- Gamay 12 – Antoine Sunier Morgon 2014 and Regnie 2014
- Gamay 13 – Thibault Liger-Belair Les Roucheaux 2011
- Gamay 14 – Bow and Arrow 2014 Oregon