Tried these lovely, distinctive Champagnes yesterday at the Red Squirrel (UK importer) tasting. They are from a small grower from Cuchery in the Marne, Champagne A. Levasseur, which since 2003 has been run by David Levasseur (pictured above). This is Pinot Meunier country, and his main cuvée is largely based on Meunier.
Since David took over he’s grown the vineyard holdings to 4.2 hectares, spread over 18 plots in the villages of Cuchery, Châtillon-sur-Marne and Fleury-la-Rivière. He farms these plots sustainably, making use of data to time interventions, and he also uses organic fertlizers and allows grass to grow in some of the rows. The wines are distinctive and flavourful.
‘A’ stands for David’s grandfather, Albert, who set the house up in the 1940s.
Champagne A. Levasseur Rue de Sorbier Brut NV France
80% Pinot Meunier, 15% Pinot Noir, 5% Chardonnay. Dosage 9 g/litre. Made from vines planted in 1973. This wine is three years old. Very fresh, apply, textured and lively with some nuts and marzipan as well as the distinctive fruity characters that Meunier imparts. Flavourful and detailed with nice weight. 92/100
Champagne A. Levasseur Rue de Sorbier Brut Nature NV France
80% Pinot Meunier, 15% Pinot Noir, 5% Chardonnay. Same blend but no dosage, and this is four years old. Very fresh, lively and herby with tight lemon and apple fruit. So detailed with real finesse. Bright, pithy and complex. 92/100
Champagne A. Levasseur Blanc de Terroir Extra Brut NV France
Chardonnay from young vines (2003 and 2007 plantings). Complex, powerful, lively and pithy with concentrated citrus and pear fruit. Lovely flavours of nuts, spices and herbs. This has depth, freshness and vitality all at the same time. 94/100
Champagne A. Levasseur Noir de Terroir Extra Brut NV France
This is from the 2011 vintage, and it’s 100% Pinot Noir. Lovely ripe cherry and pear fruit with some fresh lemons. Detailed, pure and complex with intense flavours and lots going on. 93/100
Champagne A. Levasseur Extrait Gourmand Rosé Brut NV France
10 g/l dosage. Pale pink, this shows apples and pears with a bit of cherry fruit. Fresh and detailed with nice focus and a smooth mouthfeel. 91/100
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GROWER CHAMPAGNE:
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- Agrapart Avizoise Extra Brut Grand Cru 2008
- Gimonnet Blanc de Blancs Cuvee Cuis 1er Cru NV
- Vimart et Cie Grand Cellier NV
- Gatinois Aÿ Grand Cru Brut Tradition NV
- Michel Arnould Grand Cru Brut Réserve NV
- Ulysse Collin Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons Extra Brut NV France
- Eric Rodez Blanc de Noirs NV
- Pierre Péters Cuvée du Réserve Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru NV France
- R&L Legras Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV
- Bérêche et Fils Campania Remensis Extra Brut Rosé NV
- Savart L’Ouverture Premier Cru NV
- Raphaël & Vincent Bérêche Montagne Premier Cru 2004
- Savart L’Accomplie 1er Cru NV
- Vilmart et Cie Grand Cellier d’Or Premier Cru 2010
- Champagne Marie-Noëlle Ledru Grand Cru NV
- Champagne Pierre Péters Rosé for Albane
- Christmas Grower Champagne: Legras Presidence 2007, Savart L’Ouverture and Selosse Initial
- Gimonnet Cuvée Fleuron 2006
- Gimonnet Oenophile 2005
- Selosse Initial NV
- Léclapart, Charlot-Tanneux, Emmanuel Brochet, Chevreaux-Bournazel
- The wines of A Levasseur, Marne
- Vilmart et Cie Grande Reserve Premier Cru
- Chartogne-Taillet Sainte Anne NV
- Marguet ‘Shaman’ 12 Grand Cru
- Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition Grand Cru NV
- Vouette & Sorbée Brut Nature Fidèle NV
- Marie Noelle Ledru Grand Cru 2009
- Roses de Jeanne Côte de Val Vilaine Blanc de Noirs
- Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs
1 Comment on Grower Champagne focus: A. Lavasseur from the Marne
Interesting to read the tasting notes of those first two wines. They show well that dosage brings more than just sweetness. By interacting with wine- and yeast-derived components the dosage can contribute to texture, volume and flavour complexity. A fascinating set of tastings for people that are interested would be to buy a case each of the first two wines and try them pair-wise over the next few years.