There's no reason why Hungary shouldn't be producing world class
wines, but at the moment its reputation for fine wine rests squarely
on the shoulders of just one area -- Tokaji. But if the efforts of
Vylyan are anything to go by, the perception of Hungarian wines abroad
could soon be about to change. This ambitious premium-level producer
is located in the Villány region in the extreme south of the country,
on the border with Croatia. The 130 ha estate has 55 ha under vine,
and a range of native and 'international' grape varieties have been
put to good effect to produce a very stylish line-up of wines. I was
particularly struck by the complex, Burgundian Pinot Noir, and the
impressive renditions of local red varieties Kekoporto and Zwiegelt.
Currently, Vylyan are still looking for a UK agent and I don't know
their proposed retail prices.
Chardonnay 2000
This is a light, fresh wine with some spiciness on the palate, and
a lean, savoury character. Well balanced. Very good
Kekoporto 1999
A very attractive brightly fruited red wine. The nose shows cherry
fruit with a distinctive herby edge. The palate is herby and cheesy,
with a lovely savoury character. Interesting stuff from this
indigenous variety. Very good+
Pinot Noir 1999
A lovely Burgundian style Pinot Noir (I know it's a cliché to say
this, but it really is true in this case). The varietally true nose
shows smoky, herby cherry fruit with a cheesy edge. The palate shows
good concentration and wonderful savoury complexity. Very
good/excellent
Zweigelt 1999
Distinctive bright red purple colour. The slightly muted nose has
a spicy undertone, and the palate shows soft, rich fruit with a
peppery edge. There's good concentration and a bit of tannin lurking
underneath the soft fruit. Very good+
Merlot 1999
Very dense purple/red colour. This is a classy interpretation of
Merlot but suffers a little from being a bit 'international' and
anonymous. It's thick, lush and concentrated with some tannic
structure and a bit of spiciness from the wood ageing. Very good+