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Recommended wines Reliable, independent buying advice from the wine anorak
January 2002
Wines under £8 | Wines over
£8
Previous months' recommendations:
December 2000 | January 2001
| February 2001 | March
2001 | April 2001 | May
2001 | June 2001 | July
2001 | August 2001 | September
2001 | October 2001 | November
2001 | December 2001
My rating
system explained
Bargain picks: wines under £8
Araldica Gavi 2000, Piedmont, Italy
This modern-styled Piedmont white is made from the Cortese grape, and it's
lovely for the price. The nose is beautifully aromatic, with delicate
floral and citrus fruit notes together with some 'boiled sweets'
character. The floral, limey palate is fresh with lots of bright fruit:
elegant and well balanced. Very good commercial winemaking. Very good+
(£4.99 Sainsbury) 12/01
Laurent Miquel Syrah Mourvèdre 2000, Vin de Pays d'Oc, France
This deep-coloured wine has an attractive nose of meaty, spicy berry
fruit. The palate is savoury with plummy fruit and an attractive
damson-like bitterness. With a chunky structure, this is satisfying stuff
for the price: the sort of thing the South of France does so well. Very
good+ (£4.99 Sainsbury)
Le Pigeoulet Rouge 2000, Vin de Pays de Vacluse, France
This nicely packaged wine comes from the Brunier family, who also make
the well regarded Châteauneuf du Pape Vieux Télégraphe. It's a bright
red/purple colour, with an attractive nose of slightly herby, spicy red
berry fruit. Delicious medium-bodied meaty/savoury palate with some
spiciness on the finish. A tasty glugging wine and good value at about
£6-£7. Very good+ (£6.99 Selfridges, also at Adnams)
Millton Merlot Cabernet 1998 Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
One of the standouts in a recent Wine magazine organic wine
tasting, this full-on red has a remarkable open nose with rich, bright fruit and lifted menthol
and smoky elements. Savoury berry fruit dominates the palate and it
has a dry finish. Distinctive stuff with real character. Very
good/excellent (£7.99 Vinceremos)
Wines over £8
Nyetimber Première Cuvée Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay Brut 1993,
England
This fizz is widely regarded as the leading light of the English wine
scene, and if you haven't already tried it, you really should. A full
golden colour, it has a complex, mature, biscuitty, yeasty nose. The
palate is savoury, dry and rich, in a classv vintage Champagne style.
There's plenty of complexity here but I'd be tempted to drink this
delicious wine soon, rather than banking on any further evolution. Very
good+ (£16.95 Berry Bros) 11/01
Vincent Girardin Mersault 'Les Narvaux' 1999, Burgundy, France
Girardin is one of the new wave of high quality negociants that are
currently making waves in Burgundy, and I was quite taken with this
expensive but classy Mersault. It's fermented in barriques, a third of
which are new, and this new oak contributes to the beautifully seductive,
nutty, smoky nose, underpinned with tropical fruits and with a bready,
mealy edge. The palate is rich, spicy and intense with a high acid core.
Nicely balanced, and successfully adds a new world-style veneer to the
classic white Burgundy character. Very good/excellent (£18.99 Majestic)
Vieux Télégraphe Rouge 1999 Châteauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhône,
France
A wine that lives up to this estate's considerable reputation. Deep
coloured with a brooding nose showing intense spicy fruit with some herbs
and menthol -- still a touch closed though. Concentrated, chunky, classic
palate with lots of spicy character. It's tannic, aggressive, and a bit
tight at the moment, but has super potential for ageing: don't open for a
decade or so. Excellent (£17.90 Justerini & Brooks)
Gilles Barge Côte Rôtie Cuvée du Plessy 1998, Northern Rhône,
France
Wonderful open nose showing beautifully complex perfumed, meaty Syrah
fruit, with a herbal green olive edge. The palate is intensely savoury and
nicely balanced, with meaty, herbal fruit and substantial structure from
the tannins and acidity. I'd leave for a little while before drinking
though. Excellent (£18.50 A&B Vintners)
E-mail me with your recommendations or suggestions
at jamie@wineanorak.co.uk
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