Phillippe
Butin Vin de Paille 1999 Côtes du Jura, France
This is a profound wine from the wonderful Jura region. Quite
deep coloured, this has a complex, expressive herby, undergrowthy nose
with some subtle cheesy notes. The palate is fresh and open with lovely
refreshing acidity. It’s in a rich-textured savoury style, but at the
same time its very sweet and fantastically rich. Hard to describe, but
with great length. Very good/excellent 94/100 (Berry Bros & Rudd £17.95/half
bottle) 05/05
Philippe Butin Cuvée
Speciale 1999 Côtes de Jura, France
Now for something weird but wonderful. This white wine has a powerful,
pungent sherried, spicy nose with nice savoury intensity. The palate is
thick and, once more, slightly sherried with a tangy, almost salty
character. It's long, full and delicious - a perfect match for Comte, I
suspect. Very good/excellent 92/100 (£13.95 Berry Bros & Rudd, www.bbr.com)
10/05
Domaine
Lupin Frangy Roussette de Savoie 2005
This is a lovely fresh, full flavoured, appley wine with a nice tang
to it. It’s almost Chablis-like, but a bit fresher and more transparent,
with some minerality, too. Initially a bit spritzy on opening it is quite
delicious and pure: a really lovely, authentic wine. Very good+ 89/100 (Les
Caves de Pyrene £6.35) 10/06
Frederic Lornet Arbois Naturé 1999 Jura, France
Normally Arbois (the region) Savagnin (grape variety) is either
made as vin jaune (under a flor, like fino Sherry), or it is rather
oxidised from old fashioned winemaking. This is fresh and characterful,
made in a clean modern style but still retaining personality. It has a
beguiling fresh herby nose with some lemony notes. Concentrated, dense
and rich on the palate with fresh fruit. Delicious. Very
good/excellent 90/100
10/03
Pierre Boniface Domaine de l’Ancolie ‘Abymes’ 2001
Vin de Savoie
Made from the Jacquère grape. Slightly spritzy fresh, bright nose
with subtle apple fruit and a touch of icing sugar character. The palate
is quite light, waxy and fruity. A well made easy drinking summer white.
Very good 08/02
Amédée Taillefin Chardonnay 1999 Côtes du Jura
Tiny trace of mustiness from the agglomerate cork. If you can get past
this, this bargain-priced wine (purchased from Auchan in France) offers
lots of nutty, lemony fruit with a smoky minerally edge. Nice acidity and
a good texture. Very good 11/02
Château Monterminod ‘Les Bartavelles’
1999 Roussette de Savoie
(Tasted blind, note as written) Slightly nutty, waxy nose is a little
bit shy, with a touch of citrus fruit lurking. Lean, nutty palate shows good
acidity and some honey and mineral notes. Quite savoury and very old world,
this is a restrained cool climate white a bit like an unoaked Chablis in
character. Very good 07/01
Jacques Puffeney Poulsard 1996, Arbois, Jura
Arbois is the largest specific AC in the Jura, and this unusual wine is made
from a rare red grape variety, Poulsard. A pale red/brown colour (almost a
rosé), the nose shows slightly sweet fruit, with notes of herbs, tobacco
leaf and undergrowth. The rounded palate has hardly any detectable tannins,
showing strawberry fruit with a herby character, a touch of spice and an
acidic zing. Rounded and balanced, this has some interest but is perhaps
just a little overpriced at £10. Lovely packaging, though, with an
elegantly shaped bottle and a wax capsule. Very good+ (La Vigneronne) 4/01
Jean Rijckaert Côtes de Jura Les Sarres 2000
Fresh lemony nose is very clean and modern, with crisp, clean fruit on
the palate. Attractive stuff. Very good (£6.27 John Armit) 01/02
Jean Rijckaert Arbois Pré Leveron 2000
Deeper coloured, with a crisp, modern, savoury nose. Quite rich, ripe
palate shows some spicy notes and a citrus edge. Nicely textured. Very good
(John Armit £7.44) 01/02
(Franck Pelliot) Montagnieu Roussette de Bugey Altesse
‘Cuvée Buster’ 1999, France
A special cuvee made for the US importer of Pelliot’s wines, Joe
Dressner. It’s quite a deep yellow/gold colour and immediately on
opening the nose is quite tight and very minerally with some subtle lemony
fruit. After a while it opens out with some smoky, minerally complexity.
The palate is rich and very savoury, showing a lovely texture with lemony,
honeyed fruit and delicate minerality. Harmonious and integrated, with
good concentration, this is a profound dry white wine. Excellent
(hand-imported gift) 01/02
