The wines of Patrick Baudouin, Coteaux du Layon, Loire, France

Website: www.patrick-baudouin-layon.com

Patrick Baudouin (pictured) is one of the Loire’s leading producers of sweet whites, and makes sensational wines from his three terroirs in Coteaux du Layon: Chaudefonds sur Layon, Saint Aubin de Luigné and Rochefort sur Loire.

Coteaux du Layon is a region in the Loire Valley that is famous for its sweet wines made from Chenin Blanc grapes that have been affected by the wonderfully named ‘noble rot’. This is a fungus called Botrytis cinerea rhat attacks the already ripe grapes, concentrating them into sweet, shrivelled berries that have the capacity to make complex, thrilling wines.

Patrick’s harvest is from the beginning of October to the end of November in successive passes through the  vineyards, visiting each plot four-to-six times and selecting just those grapes that are ready. He doesn’t chaptalize (add extra sugar), even though this is allowed in the appellation. Elévage is long, taking some 18 months.

He makes several cuvees, depending on the vintage. When you work with botrytis, there’s another level of vintage variability to account for – in some years conditions are much more favourable to the development of this benign fungus than others.

But Baudouin doesn’t just make sweet wines: the two dry whites and red tasted here were both very impressive, too. 

Patrick Baudouin Anjou Blanc ‘Effusion’ 2005
This is pressed straight to barrel. Lovely complex, classic Chenin nose with some lemons, some herbs and a bit of straw. Fresh but complex. The palate is fresh and broad with fantastic expressive Chenin personality. There’s a bit of grip here, as well as what tastes like tannin (in a white wine?). Finishes long. 92/100

Patrick Baudouin Anjou Blanc ‘Les Soulaies’ 2005
100 year old vines on schist. A hint of matchbox reduction on the nose, which also has powerful, complex herby, lemony notes. The palate is super-concentrated with real depth and presence, finishing long and minerally. A profound effort. 94/100

Patrick Baudouin Anjou Rouge ‘Les Coteaux d’Ardenay’ 2005
Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon from schistous soils. Open, fresh nose with sweet cherry and blackberry fruit, with a little lift. The palate is sweet and concentrated with lovely soft fruit, finishing spicy. Quite lush and open, made in a slightly oxidative style. 88/100

Patrick Baudouin Coteaux du Layon ‘Les Bruandières’ 2004
Amazingly rich nose: honey, apricots, nuts. The palate is lively, fruity and expressive with warm, waxy, honeyed notes and soft peachy fruit. Fresh – despite the sweetness this is not heavy. 93/100

Patrick Baudouin Coteaux du Layon ‘María Juby’ 2004
Very sweet, intense nose with honeyed notes, some raisins, dried fruits and hints of tea. Super-concentrated with very rich, complex dried fruits, and spice and vanilla flavours. Good acidity keeps things in balance. 94/100

Patrick Baudouin Coteaux du Layon Grains Nobiles 1999
Yellow/gold colour. Complex beguiling nose with lemony freshness alongside peach and apricot ripeness, with some dried fruits, too. The palate is fantastically complex and very sweet with almost a tannic edge to it. Lovely fresh acidity. Dried fruits dominate. Finishes really lively. Is this an immortal wine? 95/100

Wines tasted 05/08  
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