Malbec
from Argentina
45
wines tried
Argentina
is making some interesting wines at the moment. Its main marketing
push has been Malbec, a grape whose home is the southwest of France,
where it’s the main grape in Cahors and a bit-part player in many
Bordeaux blends. Malbec doesn’t have the blackcurranty fruitiness of
Cabernet; rather it is a bit darker, and a little more savoury, with
spice and earth undertones. It has less of a tendency to go to
lushness when grown in warm climates, which is probably a good thing.
Mendoza is the dominant wine region. Perched on the
side of the Andes, this is a region that receives very little
rainfall, and were it not for the ready supply of Andes meltwater,
viticulture wouldn’t be possible here. Another important factor is
altitude: the vineyards here are high up, and with the highest
vineyards in the region the extra UV light that the grapes receives
causes the grapes to develop thicker skins, with more tannins (and
softer tannins, too), as well as more colour. The cooling effect of
altitude means that the grapes preserve acidity even when they are
allowed to hang for quite a while before harvest.
But it would be wrong to dismiss Argentina’s other
wine regions. Two in particular are worth mentioning. First, Salta. Up
in the hot north, these are the world’s highest commercial
vineyards: were it not for the effect of altitude, it would be too hot
for quality viticulture here. Second, Patagonia. Travelling far south,
this is a cooler, windier, flatter region that’s beginning to turn
out some really nice wines.
This tasting covered 45 different Malbecs, which sounds
like a lot, but is only a quick sampling of a much broader offering.
Some important wines are missing – Catena, Achaval Ferrer and Colomé,
to name but three – and so this can’t be seen as a true ranking of
Argentina’s best.
In terms of quality, I though this was quite high
across the board. Remember, this is a mixture of commercial wines and
then some high-end ones. Stylistically, I think Argentina would do
well to go down the road of freshness, definition and structure,
rather than super-ripeness and new oak flavours. I would also add that
while Argentinean Malbec is great, it would be a shame for this
country to become a one-trick pony: other grape varieties shouldn’t
be neglected in a headlong rush to plant Malbec.
94
Chacayes Malbec 2003 Tunuyán, Mendoza
Pure, sweet fruit on the nose, which is smooth with a spicy
underlay. The palate is concentrated with good acidity and nice spicy
structure. A lovely wine that is quite refined and full. 94/100
93
O Fournier Alpha Crux Malbec 2003 La Consulta,
Mendoza
Dense, sweet, forward spicy nose shows lovely pure dark fruits.
The palate is bold and full with good density and nice dark spicy
fruit. Tannic, too. 93/100
Familia Schroeder Saurus Patagonia Select Malbec
2004 Neuqén, Patagonia
Amazingly deep, vivid colour. Lovely savoury, spicy nose of pure
fruit. Vivid like a tank sample. The palate is intense, vivid and
spicy with a savoury twist. A tannic beast. 93/100
Dominio del Plata Susana Balbo Malbec 2005 Tunuyan,
Mendoza
Deep coloured. Beautifully aromatic nose showing spice, violet,
sweet fruit. The palate is bold and rich but quite elegant with good
acid. A striking wine that’s beautifully made. 93/100
92
Fincas Patagonicas Zolo Reserve Malbec 2004 Mendoza
Perfumed, fresh and bold with nice fruit freshness and good
acidity. A lovely structured wine. 92/100
Finca Sophenia Synthesis Malbec 2005 Tupungato,
Mendoza
Very open, sweet, perfumed nose is smooth and lush. The palate is
open and rounded with sweet pure fruit. An elegant style. 92/100
Familia Cassone Obra Prima Malbec 2003 Mendoza
Lovely vivid savoury nose with pure fruit. Quite aromatic. Nice
structure and weight on the palate which is vivid and dense with
amazing fruit quality. 92/100
91
Fabre Montmayou Malbec Gran Reserva 2005 Luján de
Cuyo, Mendoza
Deep coloured. Smooth, pure, spicy nose leads to a dense palate
with nice intensity and delicious spicy structure. A lovely wine.
91/100
Luigi Bosca Malbec 2004 Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza
From 54 year old vines, this spends 14 months in French oak.
Concentrated, firm and tannic with nice ripe fruit allied with the
structure. There’s a bold, savoury edge to the sweet dark fruits.
91/100
Bodega del Fin del Mundo Malbec Reserva 2004 Neuquén,
Patagonia
Interesting stuff. Savoury, spicy nose leads to a palate with
dense spicy fruit and oak. Lots of presence here: a nice wine. 91/100
Filipe Rutini Malbec 2005 La Consulta, Mendoza
Lovely fruit here: juicy, vivid, bold fruit with nice weight and
spice. Delicious. 91/100
90
Pulenta Estate Malbec 2004 Alto Agrelo, Mendoza
Dense, spicy and extracted with nice freshness and some class.
Bold stuff. Delicious with lots of presence. 90/100
Finca el Retiro Malbec 2004 Mendoza
Vivid purple colour. Aromatic spicy nose leads to a high-acid
palate with good structure. Vivid and full. Long lived? 90/100
89
Eral Bravo Malbec 2005 Agrelo, Mendoza
Rich, extracted style with concentrated, dense, ripe spicy fruit.
Some oak is evident, but its nicely done in an unashamed new world
style. 89/100
Trivento Golden Reserva Malbec 2004 Vistalba,
Mendoza
Big, dense, ripe and extracted with lots of spicy, oaky fruit. In
yer face. 89/100
Familia Zuccardi Q Malbec 2003 Maipú, Mendoza
Quite structured and spicy with some oak influence. Quite refined
in a full flavoured style. 89/100
Finca Las Moras Mora Negra 2004 Tulum Valley, San
Juan
Deep coloured with vivid fruit. Ripe but with a savoury, spicy
edge. Bold but balanced. 89/100
Trapiche Tributo Felipe Villafañe Malbec 2003 La
Consulta, Malbec
Smooth, sweet pure fruit but lots of vanilla oak on the nose.
Vivid, bold, oaky palate. 89/100
Valentin Bianchi Particular 2004 Mendoza
Ripe, rich, spicy and chunky, with good weight. A nice rich style.
89/100
Luna Llena Malbec 2004 Mendoza
Very sweet, soft fruit here. Open and rounded. A striking,
distinctive wine. 89/100
88
Bodega NQN Malma Reserve Malbec 2004 Neuquén,
Patagonia
A very rich, full wine with sweet fruit and nice supporting oak.
Substantial stuff. 88/100
Terrazas Reserva Malbec 2004 Vistalba, Mendoza
Sweet, liqueur-like fruit on the nose. Some oak influence on the
palate. Modern styled. 88/100
87
Viña Fundación de Mendoza Malbec 2006 Santa Rosa,
Mendoza
Quite vivid and spicy on the nose. The palate has savoury, spicy
structure and good fruit. Good concentration. 87/100
Michel Torino Don David Reserve Malbec 2004 Cafayete,
Salta
Juicy, bold and rich with good acid and structure, and pure dark
fruits. Lovely. 87/100
San Polo Auka Malbec 2003 La Consulta, Malbec
Nice full and dense with spiciness and freshness. Tasty. 87/100
Norton Malbec Reserva 2004 Lunlunta, Mendoza
Juicy, ripe easy drinker with red fruits and a touch of spice.
87/100
86
Navarro Correas Colección Privada Malbec 2005
Mendoza
Vivid and intense, with lots of fruit. Good acid. Tasty. 86/100
RJ Viñedos Jaffe e Hijas Grand Malbec 2004 Valle
d’Uco, Mendoza
Fresh, quite perfumed nose is spicy and full. The palate is dense
and full with nice spicy structure. Vivid stuff. 86/100
85
Bodega Felix Lavaque, Finca El Recreo Quara Barrique
Aged Malbec 2004 Cafayate, Salta
Vivid and juicy with nice freshness from the high acidity. Tasty
85/100
Viento Sur Malbec 2005 Tupungato, Mendoza
Quite aromatic and full with sweet red fruits. The palate is bold
and juicy with nice fresh herby fruit. There’s a herbal edge. 85/100
Finca Flichman Reserva Malbec 2005 Tupungato,
Mendoza
Sweet, spicy, slightly tarry edge. Nice dark fruits. 85/100
Alta Vista Premium Malbec 2004 Luján de Cuyo,
Mendoza
Nice weight and density here. Rich, modern and spicy. Slightly
oaky style. 85/100
84
Telteca Antá Malbec 2004, Lavalle, Mendoza
Juicy and rich with ripe fruit. Very drinkable. 84/10
Mendoza Vineyards Malbec 2005 Mendoza
96% Malbec, 4% Viognier, some staves used. Juicy, fruity, fun and
quite nice. 84/100
Graffigna Centenario Malbec 2004 Pedernal, San Juan
Bold, rich and quite oaky with lots of presence.
Argento Malbec 2005 Mendoza
Nice bright juicy fruit with no rough edges. An easy drinker.
84/100
Chakana Malbec Reserva 2005 Agrelo, Mendoza
Vivid, toasty, chocolatey nose. Lots of ripe fruit. Quite oaky,
but good fruit. 84/100
Trapiche Broquel Malbec 2004 Mendoza
Chocolatey, spicy, oaky nose. Dense, spicy, oaky palate. Good in
its style. 84/100
83
Etchart Gran Reserva Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Cafayate, Saltra
50% Malbec, with 30% Cabernet and the balance Merlot and Tannat.
Sweet, ripe and approachable. Nice. 83/100
Tamari Malbec Reserva 2005 Mendoza
Vivid and juicy with high acidity and ripe fruit. 83/100
San Huberto Malbec Crianza 2004 La Rioja
Spicy and quite structured with good acidity. A fresh, drinkable
style. 83/100
Don Christobal Oak Reserva Malbec 2004 Mendoza
Quite a big oaky style with sweet fruit. 83/100
La Riojano Coop Raza Limited Edition Malbec 2003 La Rioja
Very fresh and juicy with nice acidity and some plummy bitterness.
83/100
Doña Paula Estate Malbec 2005 Luján de Coyo,
Mendoza
Fresh and vivid with high acidity. Juicy and full. 83/100
82
Jean Bousquet Malbec 2005 Tupungato, Mendoza
Open, sweet spicy fruit. Quite distinctive with an slightly
oxidative note. Approachable. 82/100
Santa Ana Malbec Reserve 2004 Cruz de Piedra,
Mendoza
Juicy, fresh and fruity with a bit of spice. 82/100
see
also:
Wines tasted 09/06
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