Jamie Goode tastes a stunning line-up of some of the emerging
stars from what is probably France's most happening wine region. The
only problem is getting your hands on these small-production
gems...
The Languedoc has been one of France's hottest wine areas for a
while now. Once known only as a major contributor to the EU wine lake,
producing anonymous plonk in fantastic quantities, there has been a
move towards higher quality and lower quantity for at least a decade.
Blessed with some fantastic 'terroirs' and trendy red grape varieties
such as Syrah and Mourvèdre, it was inevitable that a few ambitious
producers would soon be pushing at the boundaries of what this diverse
region was capable of. The first 'cult' wine from the Languedoc was
Mas de Daumas Gassac, surprisingly made from predominantly Cabernet
Sauvignon grapes--it emerged to critical acclaim back in the late
1970s and early 1980s and is more-or-less still going strong. However,
it has now fallen some way behind the leading pack of new wave
Languedoc 'garagistes' -- small-scale producers with a no-holds barred
approach to quality, some of whom literally are vinifying their wines
in their garages. This tasting featured the wines of just a handful of
the Languedoc overachievers, a club that seems to be swelling in
number each year. Indeed, it's hard to keep track of the fast-changing
Languedoc scene, particularly when you bear in mind that only tiny
quantities of many of these wines are made each year, and they are
almost all snapped up rapidly by a loyal clientele.
I was quite taken aback by the quality of these wines. There was
just one (Terrasse d'Elise) that merited less than a very
good/excellent rating, and two that I'd class as excellent -- the
stunning Clos de la Belle, and the wonderful old vines Carignan from
Terre Inconnue. The tragedy is that many of these wines will be just
about impossible to find because they are made in such small
quantities.
Domaine de Marfée 'Les Champs Murmurés' 1999
Thierry Hansard vinifies this wine in the basement of his house in
Montpellier; first vintage was 1997. A blend of Syrah, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Grenache and Mourvèdre from low yielding vines (20 hl/ha).
A concentrated red/black colour, the nose is a little bit shy but
shows some smoky/toasty notes. There's a nice density on the palate,
with firm, savoury, herby fruit and a touch of leather. It's a dense
wine, but not in a blowsy new world style; still very youthful and no
doubt worth cellaring for a few years. Very good/excellent (£18.50 La
Vigneronne)
Domaine Font Caude 'Les Boissieres' 1998 Coteaux du Languedoc
Montpeyroux
One of two top cuvées from Alain Chabanon, this is a blend of 90%
Grenache and 10% Syrah (the other, L'Esprit de Fonte Caude is
predominantly Syrah; he also makes some serious Chenin Blanc). This
wine shows good varietal Grenache character; it's a bit like a
supercharged Châteauneuf du Pape, showing lovely rich, spicy, herby
fruit and great concentration. Despite the full-on nature of this
wine, it still has quite a traditional feel to it. Delicious. Very
good/excellent (£14.95 La Vigneronne)
Domaine Terrasse d'Elise 1998, Vin de Pays d'Herault
Only 100 cases of this varietal Syrah are made each year, and it's
very nicely packaged in a heavy bottle with a wax capsule. Really
lovely open nose is a touch volatile, with rounded, sweet fruit. It's
medium bodied on the palate, with some savoury, herby, slightly funky
fruit and a little bit more volatility evident. Full of interest, but
a tiny bit rustic, and verging on faulty with its volatile acidity.
Very good+
Domaine des Creisses 'Les Brunes' 1998
From a 23 ha domaine, the Mitjavile family (of Terte Rôteboeuf
fame) produces two cuvées; this, their top wine, is a blend of
Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre and Syrah aged in 50% new oak. More
modern in style, this is a deep red/purple colour. The nose is quite
exotic and shows sweet fruit and ripe, tarry, spicy notes. The rich,
firm palate displays sweet fruit, good tannnic structure and some new
oak, with great density and concentration. Modern, but still
noticeably French in style. Very good/excellent (£22.50 La Vigneronne)
Roc d'Anglade 1999 Coteaux du Languedoc
A blend of 70% Syrah, 30% Grenache made by Rémy Pedréno, this is
the first vintage. The nose is really striking, with a roasted spicy,
herby, ground coffee character. The palate shows huge concentration
and is rich, ripe, spicy and tannic, with olive, toast and coffee
notes. A striking wine with a beguiling roasted character. Excellent
(£25.00 La Vigneronne)
Château de Jonquières 'Renaissance' 1998
From a small domaine, this is mostly Syrah, aged in new oak
barrels. The lush, herby nose is quite striking, with sweet fruit and
tea-leaf and caramel notes. On the palate there is palate has a
striking caramel character and firm tannins. Fascinating stuff. Very
good/excellent
Terre Inconnue 1998
Made by a chemist from 1.5 ha of old, low-yielding Carignan vines
with a bit of Syrah and Grenache, just 50 cases of this wine are
produced. It's very different in style to many of the other ambitious
Languedoc wines: it is quite shy on the nose with some herbs and
caramel. The palate is concentrated and tannic, with stony notes, some
spice and substantial structure. Quite old fashioned in style, this
wine shows great character. Very good/excellent
Terre Inconnue Cuvée Léonie 1998
Just 30 cases of this pure old-vine Carignan wine are made, and
it's sensational. Carignan never tasted so good. An inky red/black
colour, it has a lovely herby, stony nose with toasty, smoky notes and
a burnt character. The savoury, firm palate has a rich texture: it has
sensational density and character. Wonderfully rich and complex.
Excellent
Clos de la Belle 1998, Vin de Pays du Gard
100 cases of this breathtaking Syrah were produced; it is actually
made by Rémy Pedréno of Roc d'Anglade (see above). A deep red/purple
colour, it has a knockout nose of ripe fruit, herbs, liquorice, smoke,
tar and olives. The palate is full with a firm tannic structure and
lovely, savoury, herby character. This is wild stuff. Exotic and rich
with mind-blowing complexity. Excellent
Domaine de la Grange des Pères 1998, Vin de Pays de l'Herault
Next door property to Mas de Daumas Gassac in Aniane, Grange des
Pères has already arrived, commanding prices double to that of its
neighbour. Vigneron Laurent Vialle created a storm with his first
vintage here in 1992, and uses low yielding Mourvèdre, Syrah,
Cabernet and Counoise. The 1998 has a smoky, leathery nose, with spice
and herb notes. The palate has good density, an attractive 'southern'
herbal character and leathery, tea-like notes. It's not a blockbuster
style, but is savoury and quite complex. Very good/excellent (Adnams
stock this for about £25 a pop; when La Vigneronne have it it is
about £30)