By Nick Alabaster
It isnt just the Internet that moves apace nowadays: almost nothing stops for
long, including the wine world. What follows below is a personal list of buzz-words, some
of which wont be found in yesterday's wine glossaries, and some of which dont
yet have agreed definitions. Anyway, for perusal and discussion, here goes:
Cryo-extraction
Many of the best vineyards are situated in fairly marginal climates, and harvest can be
particularly tricky if it coincides with the onset of the Autumn rains. In Bordeaux, the
arrival of the September rain is awaited with bated breath as it can has such a
devastating impact on the overall quality of the harvest. Downpours threaten to spoil much
of the much of the crop, as they did in the otherwise potentially good years of 1991-94.
Each year, increasing numbers of properties have been taking drastic action to protect
their vulnerable grapes from the rains so close to picking. Chateau Petrus have covered
their vines in protective sheeting and there have been stories of top châteaux using
helicopters to hover over vineyards and dry out rain-sodden grapes. Science has done its
utmost to reverse the misfortunes of nature and devices now exist to specifically extract
water from the grape juice before fermentation. Winemakers have known that running some of
the free run juice of from the rest of the pulp can help increase
concentration, but now they have machines to effect this reduction in water. You might
think only the big industrially run operations would consider such a drastic tactic to
improve their wines -- well, does Château Latour come to mind when you think of
industrial giants? Has anyone noticed a change in style at Latour since the early 1990s
perhaps any of you Latour regulars could let me know! Hopefully, this technique is
only used to help winemakers sleep at night rather than dramatically changing a company's
style, but maybe thats being naive.
Cult wines
This definition reminds me a bit of chaos theory in that the definition seems
to use a sensible tag but on closer inspection the differences between the word and
meaning are all but close. The only sure links I can find between the wines spoken of as
cult are their high price, their recent introduction and extreme scarcity. Le
Pin, La Dôme, Valandraud; all superstar properties of relatively recent beginnings yet
attain staggering prices on the auction market. That in turn has led to increases in
cellar door prices and completely opposes a more traditional history/quality/value
philosophy. Some might consider Penfolds Grange a cult wine given its recent price
escalations, but I think the recent price rises have come only after a long history of the
company producing world class, ageworthy wines. If anything it was not only well deserved
but a long time coming ! On my definition it is not a cult wine, but a respected classic
with a good track record, and the high price simply reflects that.
A common use for the term cult wine is in describing Californian
super cabs; the Screaming Eagles, Harlan Estates and Bryant Families of this
world. These are probably the archetypal cult wines. Prices are staggering, yet they have
barely a decade of bottled wine behind them.
Much like the internet stock market world, a few insider tip offs is all
you get before new cult wines on the scene attain stratospheric prices and near
unobtainability -- more often than not blessed with a high points score from Parker.
Extraction monsters
This is an age which seems to extol the philosophy of more is better. This has
led to wines which display more of everything in order to stand out from the crowd. More
ripeness and therefore more alcohol and body. More oak and therefore more showy. And,
added to that, wines that push extraction to the limit. Not so long ago a wine such as
Penfolds Grange stood out as being a rare example of huge extraction. Today this wine is
beginning to look elegant in comparison to the extreme examples of extraction now
produced. Even Bordeaux has a category of wines which now are considered atypical for the
region. LAngelus and some of the new cult wines spring to mind. In Australia there
are a host of wines, such as The Malcolm black as treacle and with
16.5% alcohol. These wines are the talking points of the bulletin boards with as many
staunch advocates as critics, and many see this extreme nature of wine making a natural
extension to the Parkerized wine phenomenon.
Fruit bombs
'Fruit bomb' is another popular style of modern wine which simply emphasizes fruit above
all else. These wines are often dramatic, fresh and jammy, loaded with fruit and often
without the traditional structure to permit long-term ageing. While some might argue they
can last well, the emphasis is usually on their drink now appeal. Bottle-age development
away from the up-front fruit isnt necessarily what the winemaker or most drinkers
would have in mind. Australia also led the way in this style of wine but the emphasis on
fruit has often come about by successful winemaking techniques, some modern in origin, as
well as the Worlds tastes taking the New World style to heart. Even Old World
regions are now paying more attention to maximizing fruit in an effort to remain popular
with current wine drinking trend; however, this in itself doesnt imply a fruit bomb
style which takes fruit to its boisterous extreme.
Parkerization
The world's single most influential wine critic is now without doubt Robert J. Parker Jnr.
Once a lawyer, he is now pivotal in today's wine markets. His is the single most important
element in the popularity of the 100 point system for rating wine (although in fact only
51 points are used in the rating, 50 being the minimum mark). Wines in the good to very
good range find themselves awarded between 80 and 89 points, those in the outstanding
range 90-94 and those in the extraordinary range 95-100. An oft quoted-phrase of the wine
merchants of today is that if Parker gives a wine 90 or more, we have trouble
getting the wine; if he gives it less than 90, we have trouble selling it. Its
true that a wines price can escalate wildly on being blessed with the top accolade
of 100 points. A recent example is Quinta do Noval port 1997. Upon its 100 point award by
Parker, you can forget about buying a bottle for the £30 it once was !
So what does this effect have on the wine world? As well as pricing we have the now
often used parkerization term applied. It started because wines that got high
Parker points got high prices. Wine producers like getting high prices for their wines as
a rule and some of these makers actively seek high Parker scores by making wines in his
favourite styles. Forget lean and mean with old world style and low alcohol -- this man
likes his wines thick, rich, ripe and flattered with oak. In some instances this leads to
buyer or Parker barrels. This is a cynical way of providing a wine
critic or buyer with a barrel sample that may achieve all the Parker objectives but will
not provide anything like what will be found in a typical bottle on release. Its
been mentioned that barrels like this exist all over France. It makes Parker's job harder
in the end and leads to disappointed Parker followers (nick-named Parker
sheep) and ultimately all consumers everywhere.
However, the main use of the word Parkerization is for wines that have
seemingly been made and bottled with Parker points in mind. In the New World this might
have led the way to the extraction monsters mentioned previously, but in the
Old World this might be a more subtle shift to new oak, slightly later (and therefore
riper) picking and pushing the fruit extraction a bit further. Ive seen subtle
changes in some wines but whether this is a direct result of Parker or just a winemaker
moving with the times is not my call. Overall the Parker followers are happy; more wines
made in the style they admire. However, opponents decry their homogeneous nature, lack of
distinctive terroir and loss of traditional style. Whos right and
whos wrong? Well, no one person really. If McDonalds can dominate the food world
with a simple, bland formula, should we be blaming McDonalds or ourselves as a whole ?
Show wines/barrels
Competitions and pampering to the critics is more prevalent today that its ever
been; but rather than a winery adopting a complete change of style for all wines for
popularity's sake, some will seek to make one special super cuvée -- more
cynically known as a show wine. They pick off some off their best fruit and
produce a top wine designed to heighten their winery's acclaim, win awards and garner
higher prices. Some produce this top wine because of a desire to show what they are
capable off. Most are produced simply to bring attention to the rest of the range which
provides the backbone for a winery's commercial success. However, while some genuinely
great wine is produced through strict selection, some of these wines are simply following
the road towards more of everything in an attempt to get high points and win trophies. Add
more oak, extract to the limit and try and knock all the other wines at a competition for
six. These wines are flashy, gregarious and certainly impress with a single mouthful. But
often youll find they are just too much to manage after a single glass because they
lack the elegance and balance required to make sustained drinking with or without food a
pleasure.
This technique has also taken a devious turn for the worst. Perhaps little more
deceptive than producing a buyer barrel, some wines are entered legitimately into
competitions as nothing more than single barrel experiments. It has been cited that if
these wines wine awards, the wine produced under the winning label may bear little
resemblance to the wine that won the award. Talk now is that some awards given to such
barrel experiments end up on completely different bottled wine. Something is amiss there
and just diminishes any respect I have left for some of these trophy competitions.
High-toned
A little used but quite well known term with no formal definition that I've come across.
In fact while I reserve it for use in a wine that shows subtle volatile acid
characteristics whereby I'm suggesting the nose isn't all that it should be (when a nose
lacks a certain generosity and is missing the complete aroma spectrum expected through its
presence), others prefer to use it when these acids highlight a particular aspect or
'tone' of the nose and do not necessarily imply a detraction. Either way we have a wine
which has to a certain degree had its aromas altered by the presence of acids, especially
volatile ones. When these volatile acids become strong, notes of boot polish and/or
nail-varnish remover (acetone) make the nose unpleasant as the bacterial cause of VA takes
off again with aeration.
Oak-aged or oak-matured
A wine says 'oak-aged' on the label, and you are picturing the maturing wine lying
tenderly for the perfect amount of time in bright new barrels underground? Forget it.
Instead, think huge industrial-sized vats with bags of oak-chips hanging over the side
like dirty washing! At best think huge fermenting vats with oak planks attached to the
sides for a subtler influence. Some wine-makers use oak as nothing more than a flavour
enhancer, but all respect that oak plays a larger part in a wines development than just
the addition of oak flavour. So why does it get used this way ? Well, in all cases it's
applied as a cost-saving exercise (and some go as far as pumping small amounts of oxygen
through the stainless steel vats to replace the gentle oxidation the oak barrels would
naturally allow) but more often than not applied to cheap, diluted wine that needs a
flavour enhancer in the form of oak -- think the mono-sodium glutamate of wine! (OK, maybe
it won't give you blood-pressure problems or heart palpations, but it ain't going to turn
a cheap and nasty wine in to a great one !). I can guarantee you that more careful
winemaking using less industrialised techniques can make a better wine than these, with no
oak influence whatsoever; please search these alternatives out and help the wine world
free itself from total oak slavery! While no-one's going to argue that there's plenty to
be gained from the marriage of oak and wine, let's not have the oak come above the grape
when it comes to winemaking importance.
Industrialisation
A natural follow on. It started harmlessly enough. In fact, the early results of bigger
spending power, sourcing grapes over a large area for reliable and even interesting
blending, and an efficient marketing and distribution channel, combined to form a quality
product for the masses with reliability and value. But to me it has been going off the
rails recently. The lack of distinction at the lower end of New World wine is particularly
disappointing. It didn't use to be that way. It all appears to be done now on a mass,
soulless scale in huge million litre fermenting vats; add sugar, a bland but reliable
yeast strand, drop some oak planks or chips in, top up with acid and tannin additives in
exact quantities determined by your chemistry set, and turn on the tap and pour (oh yes,
mustn't forget, did grapes get a mention somewhere?). There's a valid metaphor with the
bag-in-a-box 'British' wine concoction - you pay for re-fermented grape pulp, sugar and
alcohol - and that's what you get, never mind that it says 'wine' on the box. Once again
why does the big 'M' come to mind when I think about this topic? I hope in future when we
purchase our wine we're not going to be asked 'Do you want fries with that?'