jamie goode's wine blog: Incredible Brachetto, and no more excuses for boring wine

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Incredible Brachetto, and no more excuses for boring wine

You know there's no excuse for boring wine. Most regions in the world are capable of making interesting wine, I reckon. It's just that commercial pressures, lack of imagination, and poor understanding of what is great as opposed to rubbish wine conspire to make interesting wines on the shelves of large retailers quite rare.

I'd prefer to have interesting, inexpensive wines from lesser know grape varieties and less exalted appellations than most regular wines from well known places and the usual small roster of varieties.

Tonight I'm drinking an inexpensive yet unbelievably expressive and aromatic Italian red from the Brachetto grape variety, and it's just gorgeous. It's food friendly, digestible, interesting and life-affirming. How could you not find this interesting and enjoyable? Actually, I can imagine quite a few people stuck in a conventional rut not warming to this wine simply because it is unfamiliar and different. Their loss.

Sottimano Maté 2007 Vino Rosso da Tavola, Piedmont, Italy
From a 1.1 hectare vineyard in Treiso, this is a varietal Brachetto fermented with indigenous yeasts, and it's gorgeous. The nose is extravagantly aromatic with sweet cherry, herb and plum notes that leap out of the glass. The palate is light, fresh and subtly sappy with cherryish fruit together with some earthy, herby notes keeping things savoury. Think grown-up Beaujolais on steroids and you are pretty much there. Just perfect with antipasti, or even for sipping on its own - and it won't object to being chilled lightly before serving. There's a real elegance to this wine that I love. 91/100 (Available in the UK from http://www.lescaves.co.uk/)

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At 2:33 PM, Anonymous Steve said...

But how much is it? Their list doesn't say.

At 5:48 PM, Blogger Jamie said...

Yes, I couldn't find it on their list - it's a recent addition.

I'll see if Doug can help - I'm guessing about £10.

At 7:24 PM, Blogger David said...

Ben Robson at the Bat and Bottle in Oakham does a super lightly sparkling Brachetto from Vila Giada. All delicious ripe sexy fruit and 8% alcohol. Completely barking mad and a perfect aprero.
I have no association etc!



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