jamie goode's wine blog: Two new-wave Spanish wines

Monday, October 01, 2007

Two new-wave Spanish wines

Two Spanish wines tonight, in a distinctly modern mould.

Juan Gil Monastrell 'Silver Label' 2004 Jumilla, Spain
Monastrall (aka Mourvedre) is the grape variety here, from 40 year old low-yielding vines, fermented with whole bunches, given extended maceration, and then aged in French oak. The result is a deep-coloured wine showing ripe blackberry fruit on the nose with a herby, slightly pruney edge. The palate shows ripe, lush fruit backed up by spicy tannins, with a subtly bitter, plummy, almost rubbery tang. There's a savoury, slightly bitter herby character to the finish that stops it from being too sweet and cloying, and makes it more of a food wine. 89/100 (£8.50 D Byrne, Great Grog)

Mustiguillo Finca Terrerazo 2005 Vin de la Tierra el Terrerazo, Spain
This ambitious wine comes from Utiel-Requena, best known for its budget specials, and where the Bobal grape is dominant. Winemaker Toni Sarrion has decided do something special with this oft-derided variety, and has blended 70% Bobal with 20% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, giving the wine 19 months in new French oak. This is a wine that needs some understanding. Initially, the nose seems dominated by new oak, with the fresh red and black fruits somewhat dominated by woody, spicy notes. In the mouth, though, while the oak is still dominant, there's a lovely freshness to the bright dark cherry and red berry fruits, together with some prominent tannins and high acidity. There's chocolatey, rather bitter plummy fruit on the finish. It's not much fun to drink at the moment because of the excessive oak, tannins and acid, but this will probably age really well. It's almost Tuscan in flavour profile. 91/100 (£21 Cooden Cellars, Flying Corkscrew, Noel Young)

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At 7:56 AM, Blogger Mark said...

The younger brother of the Terrerazo, Mestizaje, is a great bargain in Spain at around €10. Very much the same style.

At 9:45 PM, Blogger Jamie said...

Mark, thanks for the tip. Trying the Terrerazo again on day 2, I reckon it really is one for the long haul - the fruit is very pure and there's lovely tannic structure and acidity.

At 10:06 AM, Anonymous Luis Gutiérrez said...

Big brother Quincha Corral is normally better and for an even longer haul.

Mestizaje is a lot more approachable, but not in the same league IMHO. But very good QPR...

Have not yet tried the 2005s, though.



At 9:37 PM, Blogger Jamie said...

Thanks Luis. Grateful for your input.


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