The
wines of Billaud-Simon, Chablis
Quai de Reugny, BP46, 89800 Chablis, France
A family-owned domaine with 20 ha of vines, including
holdings in three grand cru vineyards – Clos, Preuses and Vaudésir.
Winemaking is in the hands of Samuel Billaud, together with his
uncle Bernard Billaud. The wines here are very exciting,
representing top-notch, typical Chablis. Even the basic Chablis is
a compelling wine. Only a little oak is used here, for certain
cuvees only. These wines are available from the Wine Society,
among others – their prices are quoted in brackets after each
note. I’d be happy to drink anything with Billaud-Simon’s name
on it.
Billaud-Simon Chablis 2001
Intense savoury, nutty, minerally nose, with a touch of
herbiness. Very classic. The palate shows a good concentration of
lemony, herby fruit with some delicious minerality. Very
good/excellent 90 (£9.25)
Billaud-Simon Chablis Tête d’Or 1999
A little oak used here. Taut, complex herby nose which is
intense with some minerality. The palate shows more of this
mineral complexity underlying the herby, nutty fruit. Appealing
with a challenging structure. Very good/excellent 91 (£10.95)
Billaud-Simon Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2000
Taut, minerally nose with a lemony edge. The palate is quite
concentrated, with mineral and citrus fruit character. Youthful
but elegant and with good potential. Very good+ 88 (£12.95)
Billaud-Simon Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnnere 2000
Refined, delicate nose with some nuttiness. The palate shows
good concentration, but is currently a little taut and closed.
Nice structure and potential for the future. Very good/excellent
90 (£13.95)
Billaud-Simon Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu 2000
Elegant tight nose is seamless with minerality and pure lemony
fruit. The palate is crisp and pure with great concentration.
Tight at the moment with refined acidity; needs time, but lovely
purity. Very good/excellent 91 (£14.50)
Billaud-Simon Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu Vieilles
Vignes 2000
Half of this is fermented and aged in oak. Hint of toasty oak
on the nose but it is very much supporting the minerally, nutty
fruit. Nicely poised and expressive. The palate shows good
concentration of nutty fruit – firm and taut, but with some
richness, too. Very good/excellent 91
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