Australia's
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Landmark
Australia tasting, 37 top bottles
Australia’s wine industry is fighting back. They want
the wine world to recognize that they aren’t just about sweet,
fruity ‘bottled sunshine’ brands, but also produce a raft of
fine wines in different styles and from distinctly different
regions.
At a remarkable tasting in London, presented by Michael
Hill-Smith and Paul Henry, journalists and buyers were presented
with a range of ‘Landmark Australia’ wines. This term is one of
four categories of ‘brand personalities’ that have been
identified in a recent white paper by Wine Australia, and these
Landmark Australia wines are those that reflect Australia’s fine
wine dimension. They were selected by pooling information from
Langton’s Classification (a leading Aussie auction house), show
results and informed advice from Australian wine commentators. The
actual vintages presented at the tasting reflect the choice of the
winemakers.
I’ve included here notes on the selected wines, plus
also some of the other Landmark wines presented in a free pour
tasting after the tutored bit. It really was a brilliant tasting:
here in the UK we often overlook the fact that Australia isn’t
just about fruity wines offering good value for money. I’ve also
added some of the commentary material from Michael where
appropriate.
Riesling: this was the key Aussie white grape
variety until Chardonnay arrived in the 1980s. ‘Riesling was the
grape variety that we learned to make white wines with in a somewhat
harsh climate’, says Michael. It was first planted in the Eden
Valley pre-1900. The two
classic regions are the Clare (more classically citrus dominated)
and the Eden (more floral/rose petal) valleys. The press cut is
important: very little if any press material goes in to decent
Riesling.
Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2005 Clare Valley
Jeffrey Grosset has been making Riesling in the Clare since
1981, and this is a single-site wine from a vineyard planted 460 m
above sea level on sandy loam over shallow clay, with underlying
gravel, shale and slate. Pronounced aromatic nose which is quite
limey with some mineralic notes. Crisp and quite complex. The palate
has a lovely rounded characterwith complex minerally fruit. Well
balanced and expressive. 93/100
Pewsey Vale ‘The Contours’ Riesling 2002 Eden
Valley
From a vineyard 500 m above sea level, this is a selection from
the oldest rows, planted in 1962. Fresh, aromatic nose is a bit
floral with gentle citrus notes. Delicate, fresh palate has lovely
expressive minerality. This is beginning to evolve beautifully.
92/100
Forest Hill Riesling 2006 Great Southern
Bright and limey on the nose with herby freshness. The palate
shows freshness and minerally precision with good acidity and depth.
91/100
Jacob’s Creek Steingarten Riesling 1996 Barossa
Deep yellow colour. Rich, broad toasty limey nose showing some
evolution, but still fresh. The palate has lovely depth and
intensity, as well as some herby waxy notes and citrus freshness.
93/100
Jacob’s Creek Steingarten Riesling 1998 Barossa
Creamy, broad, toasty nose. The palate is fresh and crisp with
nice fruitiness. Crisp broad and almost tannic in its mouthfeel: a
bold, intense, limey Riesling. 92/100
Jim Barry The Florita Riesling 2007 Clare
This is really special. Very aromatic with a rich, sweet, limey
nose. Superconcentrated palate is bright with focused limey fruit.
Pure, rich, focused limey fruit with great balance. 94/100
Hunter Semillons are a unique Aussie style of wine.
They’re picked early because of impending harvest rain, and tend
to have more on the nose than on the palate. In their youth they are
tight and fresh, but they are transformed with age into remarkable
wines, with a toasty quality even though they are unoaked. Not many
wineries are making these because not many people love them, but
they retain a loyal support with a few who recognize their unique
characters.
McWilliams Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon 2001
Hunter Valley
Tight, toasty nose with some citrus freshness. Complex, taut and
quite waxy. The palate is quite tight with some minerality and
toastiness, as well as crisp, tight acidity. A lean, linear wine.
91/100
Tyrell’s Vat 1 Semillon 1998 Hunter Valley
Deep yellow colour. Lovely rich, intense toasty nose with sweet
vanilla and herb notes. The palate is bright with high acid and
minerally freshness. The palate is crisp and bright with high acid
and mineral freshness. Intense and powerful with a tight herby
finish. Wonderful stuff. 93/100
Murray Tyrell’s Vat 47 Chardonnay is an important
wine in Australia’s history. He was the first to plant Chardonnay
in 1967, and the first wine was in 1971 (Vat 47 Pinot Chardonnay).
The first oaked Chardonnay was the 1973 Vat 47, and this got 6/20 in
the Brisbane wine show. It is described as the ‘Grandfather of
Aussie Chardonnay’.
Tyrell's Vat 47 Chardonnay 1998 Hunter
A big, massive Chardonnay that's unashamedly Australian, but
which at 10 years old is ageing beautifully. Deep coloured, this has
a burnt toast nose. Super-concentrated palate has powerful flavours
of toast, peach, pear and herbs with lots of rich spicy oak. The
finish is long and intense with oak meshing well with the fruit.
Thrilling stuff. 94/100
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2005 Margaret River
This is predominantly Mendoza clone Chardonnay, which has low
phenolics and allows for some skin contact. The newer Bernard clones
tend to give more savoury spectrum rather than just fruit. Warm,
concentrated, rich and broad with lovely soft, complex, nutty creamy
fruit. The palate shows ripe, soft fruit with peach, nectarine and
pear as well as fresh acidity. Delicious stuff with power and
elegance. 94/100
Leabrook Estate Chardonnay 2005 Adelaide Hills
Broad nose is creamy and intense with a complex herbiness. The
palate is concentrated and smooth with great depth of flavour. Quite
fresh with good concentration and definition. 92/100
Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay 2006 Adelaide Hills
Fresh, tight nose with some citrussy notes as well as toasty
oak. The palate is fresh and concentrated with bright, toasty fruit.
Crisp and fresh with good acidity, this is a stylish modern wine.
91/100
Pinot Noir: Michael says that, ‘The emergence of
Pinot Noir internationally has been one of the most exhilarating
recent developments in wine’. He cites two individuals as being
important in Australia, John Middleton at Mount Mary in the late
1980s, and Garry Farr of Bannockburn (who he describes as ‘John
the Baptist of Aussie Pinot Noir’, and who did every vintage from
1982–2002 at Dujac). Advances in Pinot Noir have included moving
to cooler areas in Australia, taking only miserly yields, the use of
pre-ferment soaks, and experimenting with whole bunches. Clonal
material has been limiting: the early clones were Davis ones,
especially NV6. Now the Dijon clones 112, 113, 114, 115 and 777 are
being used.
De Bortoli Reserve Pinot Noir 2005 Yarra Valley
From some of the oldest Pinot plantings in the Yarra Valley
(1971), naturally fermented in open 4.5 ton fermenters. Sweet
aromatic cherry fruit nose with some earthiness and undergrowth
notes. The palate is broad with fresh cherry and berry fruit,
together with a subtle herby sappiness. Rounded texture. Quite
complex and earthy. 91/100
Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir 2005 Mornington Peninsula
Bright and fruity, with sweet berry and cherry notes. There’s
some structure here. A fresh, understated sort of wine. 90/100
Stonier Pinot Noir 2006 Mornington Peninsula
Aromatic, fresh and cherryish with lovely freshness. The palate
is bright and open with a herby edge to the cherry and berry fruits.
Nicely expressive. 90/100
Shelmerdine Phi Pinot Noir 2006 Yarra Valley
Fresh green spicy nose with nice fruit and a sweet herbal
character. Sweet, well defined palate with good structure. Good
definition and some spicy complexity. 90/100
Tamar Ridge ‘Kayena Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2005
Tasmania
Sweet, bright, berryish nose with some dark cola-like depth. The
palate is quite funky with a ginger-like spiciness to the sappy
green fruit. There’s a mix here of very sweet ripe fruit with some
green spicy structure. 89/100
Cabernet Sauvignon: in the 1980s Cabernet had a
20–30% premium over Shiraz in both grape and wine prices, because
of short supply and high demand. Things have changed, though,
because Cabernet doesn’t perform all that well apart from in a few
select areas.
The Cabernet/Shiraz blend was born of necessity,
because there just wasn’t enough Cabernet about, and people wanted
it. But it has turned out to be a classic blend that works well.
‘I think it’s a more interesting category that
Cabernet/Merlot’, says Michael.
Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet
Sauvignon 1996 Coonawarra
First vintage of this classic was in 1982. It is hard to believe
this, the 1996 vintage, is already 12 years old. Fantastic nose is
gravelly, intense, minerally and has a slightly tarry edge to the
blackcurrant fruit. The palate is concentrated, complex and fresh
with lovely purity of gravelly, minerally fruit. It’s still quite
tannic with some lovely complexity. Great integration of fruit and
oak: a real classic. 96/100
Mitolo Serpico Cabernet
Sauvignon 2005 McLaren Vale
This is incredible stuff. Smooth, sweet blackcurrant fruit nose
is fresh and expressive with a sappy edge. The palate is soft and
smooth with lovely texture and a spicy, gravelly undercurrent to the
fruit. 94/100
Balnaves The Tally Cabernet
Sauvignon 2005 Coornawarra
Sweet, dense, focused blackcurrant fruit with nice structure.
Lovely definition to the sweet blackcurranty fruit. 92/100
Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon
2004 Margaret River
A thrillingly intense Cabernet that's taut and brooding at the
moment, but it's a serious wine with a long life ahead of it. Dark,
focused blackcurrant fruit bolstered by good tannins and nice
acidity. Dense and full with lovely freshness. Tannic and dense.
95/100
Cullen Diana Madeline
Cabernet Merlot 2005 Margaret River
Grapes grown biodynamically. Cabernet is from an 11 hectare
vineyard planted in 1971; Merlot from 1.8 hectares planted in 1976.
A thrilling wine that's still tight and youthful. Concentrated ripe,
dense fruit with great precision and real potential for further
development. Lovely fresh blackcurrant fruit nose with nice
spiciness. The palate is concentrated with smooth, dense, ripe fruit
and lovely warm spicy structure. 94/100
Ben Glaetzer Anaperenna
Shiraz Cabernet 2006 Barossa Valley
This used to be called the Godolphin, but had to be renamed for
legal reasons. It comes from the Ebenezer district of the Barossa,
and is three-quarters Shiraz, one-quarter Cabernet. Really lush,
pure sweet nose of intense dark fruits. Sweet, complex and spicy on
the palate with lovely intensity and freshness. Bold and dense with
concentrated blackcurranty fruit and nice spicy definition. Balanced
despite its richness. 93/100
Wild Duck Creek Estate Duck
Muck 2004 Heathcote
This Shiraz/Cabernet blend
is crazy stuff, with 16.5% alcohol and incredibly rich, porty fruit.
But it's actually in balance and is thoroughly delicious. The nose
shows lush, almost overripe black fruits. The palate is
super-concentrated with powerful fruit. Massive and intense. A
guilty pleasure. 94/100
Hardys Eileen Hardy Shiraz
1999 McLaren Vale
A distinctive, classically styled Aussie Shiraz that's ageing
beautifully. Distinctive, rich, complex balsamic nose with sweet
black fruits. A bit old-fashioned but lovely: aromatic and profound.
The palate is fresh and complex with concentrated sweet fruit and
some nice spiciness, showing great integration of ripe, sweet fruit
and oak. Lovely. 94/100
Peter Lehmann Stonewell
Shiraz 2001 Barossa Valley
In 1987 Peter Lehmann decided to make a special Shiraz that
demanded time in bottle. Stonewell is the result. Sweet liqueur-like
nose is bold and a bit porty, showing some caramel notes. The palate
is sweet and bold with a bit of evolution. Super-concentrated with
warmth and richness, but this seems a little more evolved than it
should be. This bottle only? 91/100
Penfolds RWT Shiraz 2004
Barossa Valley
The first release of this was the 1997. It was added to the
range to complement Grange with a Shiraz that’s more fruit driven
and fleshy. This has bold sweet, blackberry and blackcurrant fruit
with a spicy edge on the nose. The palate has good concentration of
sweet pure fruit: it’s focused, fresh and pure with lovely
balance. 94/100
Mount Langi Ghiran Langi
Shiraz 2004 Grampians
This is an utterly brilliant cool-climate Shiraz. It has a fresh
white pepper nose and pure dark fruits. The palate is fresh and pure
with lovely fresh dark fruits and a bit of meatiness, as well as
more of that cool-climate pepperiness. 15% alcohol but the balance
is perfect. Thrilling. 96/100
Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz
2005 Hunter Valley
Stunningly good. Sweet, focused
dark fruits nose is pure and well defined. The palate is
concentrated and fresh with lovely definition to the dark fruits and
tight structure. Massive potential for future development. 95/100
Jim Barry Armagh 2004 Clare
Valley
Sweet, pure and intense dark fruits nose. Great concentration on
the palate, with a combination of new oak and intense fruit. The
palate is superconcentrated with sweet black fruits and a spicy
finish. Rich and youthful in a blockbuster style. 93/100
Chapel Hill Shiraz 2004 McLaren Vale
Red/black colour. Concentrated dark fruits here. It’s firm and
tannic and almost impenetrable at the moment. A blockbuster style
with sweet dark fruits, some oak and firm tannins. 92/100
Wirra Wirra RSW Shiraz 2003 McLaren Vale
Sweet open nose is warm, spicy and cedary. The palate is
concentrated and sweet showing a bit of evolution and very ripe
fruity oak. Stylish in a slightly traditional style. A bit evolved.
91/100
Kay Brothers Block 6 Shiraz 2004 McLaren Vale
Deep coloured. Lovely sweet, intense dark fruits nose well
framed by warm spicy notes. The palate has nice freshness and
definition to the ripe dark fruits. 93/100
Mitolo Savitar Shiraz 2006 McLaren Vale
Fresh, bright and aromatic with lovely definition. The dominant
theme here is red and black fruits with a plummy spicy bitterness on
the finish. Dense but balanced with a really fresh finish. 93/100
Shaw & Smith Shiraz 2006
Adelaide Hills
This is a cool climate Syrah with a peppery edge to the
beautifully fresh, well defined red fruits. Fantastic stuff. 94/100
Yering Station Reserve Shiraz Viognier 2003 Yarra
Valley
Very sweet lush dark fruits nose with a grapey, spicy sweetness
as well as a little bit of apricot. It smells a bit confected. The
palate has a slightly odd confected edge. Nice freshness and
definition though. 90/100
SC Pannell Shiraz Grenache 2005 McLaren Vale
Stephen Pannell spent a decade working for Hardys and is now a
consultant; this is the first wine under his own label. It’s based
on a 90 year old Shiraz vineyard and 60 year old bush vine Grenache.
Ripe spicy black fruits nose. The palate is sweet and soft with dark
fruit backed up by some spiciness. There’s lushness and elegance
here: a broad, soft-textured wine with some structure under the
easy-going fruit. 93/100
Wines tasted 04/08
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