Ballantynes of Cowbridge
Vintage Report
Since 1993 every vintage in Bordeaux has been plagued with
unusually high volumes of September rain. Years which looked promising
in August have been reduced from great potential to either good or
good plus, nothing really sensational. Within these years many
outstanding wines have been made: one has only to remember 1996 Lafite,
1998 Haut Brion, 1996 Ducru Beaucaillou etc. but not a vintage which
had the depth and breadth of 1982 and 1990.
Last summer as a very warm August in Bordeaux continued into
September, we were riveted to our seats as reports of clear blue skies
and high temperatures became the norm: could this be the vintage: was
God really a Bordelais (or related to them)? Could the magic 2000 be
the vintage of the century?
Picking started around 20th September in ideal conditions but rain
did arrive on the 24th and picking stopped. The rain only lasted
twenty-four hours and was not the downpours of previous years. Many
estates delayed picking immediately after rain and some held off until
October and were rewarded by an Indian Summer which produced wines of
gorgeous ripeness. Some growers picked in September and their wine
just missed the boat, but were still of good quality. One of the keys
to this vintage is recognising this in the wines.
For a number of years, I have not felt the same surge of adrenalin
as I arrived in Bordeaux and this has not been solely the lack of a
great vintage. I have felt, rightly or wrongly, that Bordeaux was
losing its way with the emphasis on overly extracted wines at the
expense of the birthright of elegance and complexity. Far too many
spivish characters making wines to suit influential journalists and
dragging prices ever upwards in a feeding frenzy.
However, as I drove over the Pont d’Aquitaine I had this feeling
of real enthusiasm and as I dropped down onto the Quai Bacalan and
Quai Chartron, I could see the immense work that was being started to
clean up the waterfront and I thought how appropriate, the city was
going back to its roots, and I looked forward with enthusiasm to
tasting the wines.
THE WINES
From the outset it was obvious that there was something special
about the wines: they had good colours most had very ripe fruit,
balance, concentration and length: indeed very little was missing. The
wines are at their best in the Medoc, where I feel the vintage is
clearly the best since 1982 and in some instances I fell that some
monumental wines have been made. St Emilion had many stunning wines
and has slightly overshadowed Pomerol and in the Graves there is great
consistency and some brilliant wines at Haut Brion. All in all there
is something for everyone, and at every price level - this is a
vintage for drinkers and investors.
Peter R. Ballantyne
MARGAUX
This has always been the commune of under-achievers, but this year
some really fine wines and many good wines too numerous to purchase. I
felt there was improvements in the like of Brane Cantenac, Siran,
Dauzac, Prieuré Lichine and Lascombes, but the selection was the
following.
Chateau du Tertre
There has been a huge cellar investment at Chateau du Tertre,
which is now completed. This Chateau is another one in Margaux, which
has for many years underperformed, but those with long memories will
recall the excellent 1979 and the very good 1985 and will know the
potential. The vineyard itself is very stoney and has steeper slopes
than any in the commune. The wine has a lovely colour, nose is very
fruity with hints of oak and the palate gushes with blackcurrants.
More structure would have pushed this wine into another class, but
there is no denying the lovely elegance of the wine and it is so
typical of Margaux. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot 30% Cabernet
Franc - 50% new oak.
Chateau Palmer
After many years of under-achievement, Palmer has at last turned
out a wine to rank with the marvellous wines produced in the period
from 1953 - 1978. I choose those dates very carefully, as I believe
that good as the 1983 and 1989 were, they were not as outstanding as
say 1966 or 1970. The 2000 to my way of thinking is the best Palmer
for a generation. Those with long memories will recall that Palmer
used to occupy (with La Mission) a mid point in esteem and price,
between the first growths and the emerging super seconds. It lost its
place in the eighties as new plantings diluted the wines and some
decidedly dodgy decisions were made in the cellar. However, from the
mid-nineties a huge investment has been made in the cellar and the
hiring of Philippe Delfaut, who understudied at Las Cases, was a very
positive move. I noted Palmer 1998 when tasting that vintage and wrote
at the time "Palmer is nearly there", well it has arrived!
The wine has a beautiful ruby red colour which glows with highlights.
The nose is tight at present but you can sense the hidden depths.
Dense palate without over extraction, good structure showing spicy
oak, lovely ripe blackcurrant fruit - very long and classic. 47%
Merlot, 53% Cabernet Sauvignon - 42% new oak. Excepting Chateau
Margaux, easily the best wine in the commune and one of the best
Medocs. Welcome back Palmer, you have been sorely missed.
Chateau Monbrison
This was tasted twice, at the Union des Grand Crus tasting and at
the Chateau and is consistent. Back in the eighties Jean-Luc
Vonderheyden propelled Monbrison into the position of a leading cru
bourgeois and after Chateau Margaux contender for the best wine in the
commune. His unfortunate early death meant a fallow period in the
nineties, but recently his brother Laurent has come to grips with the
wine and the arrival of a new winemaker in 1998, who is very
sympathetic with the vineyard, has returned the Chateau to its
rightful place. Proper colour with real class on the nose - very ripe
fine - lovely blackcurrants on the palate - really mature tannins, oh
so silky mouthfeel with lovely plumpness. Interestingly only 40% of
the wine was selected for the Grand Vin which shows the committment to
quality.
HAUT MEDOC
Chateau Cambon La Pelouse
This Chateau which is situated in Macau on fairly high ground
between Cantemerle and Giscours, was once highly regarded and Cocks
& Ferret of 1949 stated that the wines fetched prices above the
4th and 5th growths. Since then the Chateau largely fell into
disrepair, but since 1996 Jean-Pierre Mairie took over the property
and iaded by Eric Diaz (former cellar master st Chasse Spleen) has set
about restoring its fortunes. The 2000 is more in the style of
Giscours, full bodied rich and vigorous and the weight on the palate
is exceptional for a wine of its class. This is most certainly a wine
on the way up and could again challenge at the lower end of the
classified growths. Very good value. 50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc.
MOULIS
Some nice wines in Moulis, with two lovely examples from Poujeaux
and Chasse Spleen.
Chateau Poujeaux
Lovely, bright ruby colour, less extracted than the 1998 or 1999.
Really fine nose which comes through on the palate: not chunky but
refined and elegant. Finishes very well with the sweetness of ripe
grapes. A very good Poujeaux. 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 6%
Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc. 65% of the blend went into the Grand
Vin.
Chateau Chasse Spleen
I have never been a great fan of this Chateau, rightly or wrongly
feeling that it lacked style, I think that I must have been wrong
because the 2000 vintage is just my type of Claret. The Chateau has
changed hands in the last year within the family, and now is run by
Celine Villars and her husband Jean-Pierre who seem to have the right
attitude and committment to produce proper wine. They certainly have
taken a major step by not presenting their wine to Robert Parker: in
the current climate this takes a measure of courage! The 2000 has a
huge colour, not extracted and the nose reveals depth and a touch of
cloves. The palate shows very ripe fruit, properly framed with oak and
the structure will bring the wine to maturity after ten years. I
thought the wine oozed class in a masculine style. This old dog has
learned a new trick, and by the way I loved the 1999 tasted at the
same time!
ST JULIEN
A very successful vintage in St Julien, the problem was not what
to include but what to exclude. Lagrange for me was a little hollow
and St Pierre lacked definition, and one of my favourite Medocs Ducru
Beaucaillou could have been better - more of this later. Gruaud Larose
was truly outstanding as was Leoville Barton, but the star for me was
Leoville Las Cases (surprise, surprise) in fact, for me, with Lafite,
the wine of the Medoc.
Chateau Teynac
This Chateau, which I discovered in the back streets of the
village of Beychevelle, has been steadily built up in the nineties by
owner Philippe Pairault; it was just what I had been looking for a
really good St Julien at a moderate price. Bright, lively, dark ruby
colour - lovely spice and blackberry nose - full palate, not huge
tannins, and a nice rich finish - will drink inside five years, but
will keep. At £87per case en primeur this is a bargain, discover
again just how good and relatively inexpensive Bordeaux can be.
Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou
I am at a loss to understand Ducru this year, this is one of my
favourite Chateaux, which I tasted at the estate, and was a little
underwhelmed. Normally I do not seek opinions, but in this case I
listened to other experienced tasters who found the wine much better
than I did, and so I am including it in my offer with reservation. So
what did I find? I found this year that Ducru was much more like a
Pauillac than a classic St Julien and seemed to lack the complete
ripeness that other wines had in abundance. Now, I am quite willing to
accept that I tasted this on a bad day, but one other taster has
exactly the same notes as I have - this is a very cautious
recommendation, and only for followers of the Chateau.
Chateau Beychevelle
I am very partial to Beychevelle, I feel it has a unique flavour
and could be picked blind in a line up of its peers. However, it has
not quite clicked in the nineties and nothing in that period compares
to 85, 86 and 89 which were just delicious. The 2000 on the other hand
showed well at the Grands Crus Tasting with good ruby colour and
classic Beychevelle on the palate. Tasted again at the Chateau, the
colour looked gorgeous, classic nose and so gently St Julien on the
palate. The fruit was very ripe and importantly well defined. Lovely.
49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot.
Chateau Gruaud Larose
Once the old standby of the British Wine Trade Gruaud Larose and
its former stablemate Talbot were typically solid St Julien. Not now,
from 1999 I noticed a change in Gruaud Larose which has become more
refined and elegant and for the first time last year, I purchased it
as a primeur. First noticed at the Grands Crus Tasting - lovely colour
very dark ruby - nose fine, showing really ripe fruit, which
translates to the palate - spicy oak and good grip - this is a top
notch effort. Same again at the Chateau, the fruit is so elegant and
well defined - gorgeous. 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 6%
Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot.
Sarget de Gruaud Larose
The 2nd wine of Gruaud Larose will turn out to be a bit of a
bargain as it is just a minor version of the Grand Vin. Very typical
St Julien.
Chateau Leoville Barton
This I tasted several times, twice at the Grands Crus Tasting, at
the Chateau and also with Negociants and the notes are totally
consistent. Saturated colour, classic St Julien nose, enormous depth
of fruit on entry, layers of fruit in mid-palate, just a little
unyielding and shows high extraction on the finish. Undoubtedly a
great wine from one of life’s gentlemen, but I do wish that he didn’t
extract quite so much. This is a minor reservation and one of the best
(I would say joint 2nd best) in the commune.
Chateau Leoville Las Cases
In the last twenty years no Chateau has consistently produced
great wine like Leoville Las Cases. They have all had their ups and
downs, but I do not remember any vintage of Las Cases which was not
the best within the constraints of the year, and as for 2000, well it
just blew me away. Here goes with another leading statement, Leoville
Las Cases 2000 is the greatest wine produced at the Chateau for forty
years and I include the great 1982. The colour is just off the scale,
you can tell overextracted colour by the hints of charcoal grey, but
Las Cases is pure purple/black with a brightness which is so healthy
and there is almost no rim on the wine. The nose is very closed and
hard to coax, but one can sense the depth. The palate defies
description, senational pure fruit and weight - yet retaining all its
elegance and balance: the fruit definition is also good, it just
ravishes the palate and the finish lasted until I was out the door, in
the car, and past Cos d’Estournel. For me, I have never tasted a
better Las Cases, Michel Delon must be smiling in heaven at the
efforts of the new generation.
Clos du Marquis
Obviously tasted before Leoville, this proved to be a chip off the
old block with a ravishing colour, majestic St Julien nose - huge on
the palate with very mature tannins. This beats hands down many of the
classified growths. One to buy if you cannot afford the Grand Vin.
PAUILLAC
Pauillac has suffered in recent years with the exception of Lafite
and there have been no really outstanding wines, possibly excepting
the revival in Pontet Canet. There is a different story to tell in
2000 , with some stunning wines. However, there is one great
disappointment with Mouton Rothschild which quite frankly is fairly
poor for a 1st growth. the wine was dilute and picked too early and
85% of the crop went into the Grand Vin. Quite frankly I cannot see
what they are trying to achieve.
Chateau Lafite Rothschild
Since 1996 Lafite has consistently turned out the best wine in the
Medoc, it rose to the occassion again and for me just pips Las Cases
(or does it?). The colour is fabulous and dense, the nose totally
closed not an inch of give - it has the same depth of fruit as the
great 1996 but even riper and is just the epitome of Cabernet
excellence - the wine really has a soul and their great terroir is
being fully exploited by the talented Charles Chevalier. 93% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, only 37% of the crop in the Grand Vin. Are you
ashamed Mouton?
Chateau Latour
Much deeper colour than Mouton tasted just before, quite dense but
not overextracted - good weight in the glass - nose is totally locked
up - lovely ripe majestic fruit not a heavyweight and more feminine
than the great Latours of the past. The wine has all the flavours of
Latour, tobacco, spice, earthiness and dark chocolate. On the second
taste the palate opens more and reveals the very ripe tannins. This
mature elegant Latour is the best of recent years but not as great as
1990.
Les Forts de Latour
Lovely dark colour - oak on the nose - good tannins and fruit on
the palate - delicious flavour and real elegance and persistence on
the finish.
Chateau Pontet Canet
Pontet Canet improved out of sight from the mid nineties and we
were very struck with and bought the impressive 1999. The 2000 is on a
higher plateau and may well turn out to be one of the bargains of the
vintage. With the 1999 vintage the Chateau instituted a double table
de trie and the grapes were brought to it from the vineyard in small
boxes. With better selection has come higher quality and the vineyard
at an average of thirty five years is mature. The 2000 has been tasted
on several occassions at the Grands Crus Tasting and at the Chateau
and consistently shows a huge natural colour - lovely nose of truffles
and black fruit - nose and palate show complexity and the wine
finishes on notes of spice. This is an extremely serious wine at a
less than serious price.
Chateau Pichon Baron
I have been critical of Baron since its majestic 1990 vintage
feeling that the wines have been too extracted. I am pleased to say
that the 2000 tasted at the Chateau was very impressive in a much more
feminine and expressive style. Dark ruby colour very natural and not
overextracted - intense fruity nose leads to an elegant very ripe
palate of good complexity. It has a long finish and has clearly
benefited from good vineyard management. Whilst not an 1989 or 1990,
this has been the best vintage since then. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25%
Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc.
Chateau Pichon Lalande
At long last a great Pichon Lalande. We have had so many fallow
years, it is good to see it back on course. The colour is bright ruby,
not at all dark, the nose is stylish, elegant and the palate whilst
not being huge has good intensity and definition and complexity:
delightful is the word for me, and fine and really fine, crop up again
and again in my notes. Possibly the most elegant Pichon for over a
decade.
Chateau Lynch Bages
Tasted twice at Grands Crus Tating and at the Chateau this is a
very serious Lynch Bages and for me back to the quality of 82, 85 and
89. I may be wrong but the wine is more traditional Pauillac than
before, perhaps not so exotic but deriving great benefit from it. A
very full colour with sparkle and glow - closed nose but real depth -
palate is not as huge as one would expect from Lynch, but really
intense and follows through with real length. A very serious Pauillac.
ST ESTEPHE & NORTHERN MEDOC
Plenty of good wine here, including Cos d’Estournel which I am
not buying for reasons which will become clear.
Chateau Haut Marbuzet
Normally this is a big strapping wine but in 2000 the style was
more feminine and I did like it. Ruby red colour - gentle
non-extracted palate - beautiful balance with lovely ripe fruit and
100% new oak - even a touch of cassis on the fruit. A very pretty wine
which will put on weight.
Chateau Montrose
Montrose has had a spotty time, exotic and rich in 1990, austerely
nice in 1993, very classic in 1996 and downright poor in 1999: so what
was I going to expect in 2000? Certainly not a candidate for wine of
the Medoc and clearly one of the five best. Here is another famous
Ballantyne stick your neck out statement: the 2000 Montrose is the
finest wine made at the Chateau since the war and eclipses the more
exotic 1990 which a certain gentlemen from Baltimore awarded 100
points. The wine is awesome. Very deep colour, again dense and bright
showing natural colour no extraction. The nose at first was all locked
up, but with real agitation revealed huge depths. The fruit on the
palate was beautifully defined, crisp and had awesome struture and a
60 second finish. This is just a classic Claret reminiscent of the
very lovely 1970 but in a much more modern style with more mature
tannin and greater fruit definition. I really jumped up and down about
this, a wine for heros (and heroines). Hats off to everybody at
Montrose and expecially Monsieur & Madame Charmolue for the
courage to spend on the new cellar which has already reaped the
reward. 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2%
Petit Verdot. 56% of the harvest in the Grand Vin.
Chateau Sociando Mallet
Having praised the 1996 to the heavens it is difficult to see how
Sociando could do better, and I would hate to pronounce on which is
ultimately the better, all I can say that the 2000 at this stage is
all the 1996 was but even riper. The colour is the monster black you
expect. I would say even deeper than the Montrose, closed nose but
palate reveals layers of ripe fruit which for the present submerge the
tannins. You can detect a range of flavours, from coffee through
blackcurrants and cassis. This is a real sleeper which will need
serious ageing. Stirring stuff. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 3
Cabernet Franc. 100% New oak and honesty.
Chateau Tour Haut Caussan
We have been following Philippe Courrian’s estate since the 1985
vintage and can state with a good degree of authority that this is the
finest vintage to date. This 50/50 Cab and Merlot blend is deeply
coloured, full of ripe autumnal fruit has good acidity and structure
and the fruit is quite delicious. Amazing value.
Chateau Potensac
This Chateau is the stable mate of Leoville Las Cases and made by
the same team and is highly sought after, as it generally offers very
good value. This year, like Las Cases itself, I do not think I have
tasted a better Potensac, the colour was impenetrable but bright -
very dense nose of black fruits - follows through on the palate with
hints of eucalyptus. 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 20% Cabernet
Franc.
ST EMILION
Anyone remotely interested in Bordeaux cannot have missed the
problematic & so called "Vins de Garages" which have
emerged in recent years: I have been very sceptical about them and
perhaps in my haste to condemn them I have not dug deep enough. This
trip I gave St Emilion an in depth examination and have found some
really exciting wines and also some wines which are not to my taste -
the bad news first.
The leader of the garage movement is Jean-Luc Thunevin of Chateau
de Valandraud. His philosophy of highly restricted yields, very late
picking and enough oak to build the Mary Rose has been lavishly
praised by Robert Parker. This has lead to other micro-estates
emerging from under the stones and before long there is a list of
Chateau never heard of before, all earning 90+ points from Bob. In
1998 Richard Ballantyne visited Thunevin and his verdict was "all
the wines taste the same". I was determined to look for myself
and visited Thunevin on my trip.
I have to say, that I tasted around twenty wines made by Thunevin,
including De Valandraud, and it was the most depressing tasting of
Bordeaux wines I have ever made, they all tasted the same. They should
have been poured into one exceptionally large vat, stirred and bottled
as "Thunevin 2000".
Someday, the end consumer is going to pull the corks on wines like
these and I certainly do not want to be associated with them; my worst
fears have been realised. The same depressing picture emerged at
Chateau Pavie which was sold in 1997 by the Valettes to the
supermarket tyro Gerard Perse, who already had Monbousquet. All the
wines have the same approach, totally overextracted, late picked and
overoaked. No doubt Pavie will get 97-98 Parker points, but I wouldn’t
put it in my Coq au Vin, this is vandalism to compare with the sack of
Rome, and what is most depressing this estate has just about the best
terroir in St Emilion and some ancient vines. Angels weep and strong
men turn their faces to the wall.
Having got that out of the way, there was much to enthuse about in
St Emilion and if our selection seems a little long, then it is
because I found so many wines which I liked and would put in my own
cellar.
Chateau Berliquet
The good thing about Bordeaux this year was the proliferation of
tastings which allowed a huge range of wines to come under the
microscope - we might have missed this wine if it had not been
presented in a range of its peers at a tasting at La Dominique. As I
made my way along a line of some twenty wines noting the good, bad and
indifferent, this one just stopped me in my tracks, it was so good. I
hurriedly arranged a visit to the Chateau to find out more about the
wine. Berliquet is owned by retired investment banker, the Vicomte de
Luquesne and is situated on the escarpment of St Emilion surrounded by
the premier crus of Beausejour, Magdelaine and Canon - the terroir is
magnificent. The Vicomte had the good sense to bring in Patrick
Valette, late of Pavie, in 1996 and the wine has taken off. One of the
improvements is a double table de trie which sorts the grapes before
and after the eggrapoir. I was fortunate to have a CD ROM of the
vintage which was very instructive and can vouch for the quality of
the fruit. The 2000 is a lovely feminine wine of real beauty
(Catherine Deneuve) concentrated but not heavy and so thrilling to
taste: my notes show heavenly as one of my adjectives. This is just so
good, premier grand cru classé quality and a must buy this year. 80%
Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Chateau La Dominique
This has been a favourite Chateau for a number of years and in
2000 has turned out a very serious wine. If Berliquet is to the
feminine side then La Dominique is masculine and how. Very dark colour,
the nose and the palate give sensations of very dark fruit and the
volume of wine is huge a wine with real size. A majestic wine, very
serious it seems to me a fusion of St Emilion and Pauillac.
Saint Domingue
This is a special vineyard selection made by La Dominique from a
parcel of adjoining vines which could not be included in the Grand Vin
under the appellation laws. This piece of ground of 2.7 hectares has
been drained and restructured over the years and is now producing a
wine which is so like La Dominique but even more concentrated and
majestic. Made from 100% Merlot with an average age of 30 years this
is a magnificent wine of real power and structure without any sense of
overextraction, this is a pure terroir wine. 6,000 bottles only at
natural yield of 25 hectos/hectare.
Chateau Le Tertre Rotebœuf
The enthusiastic and talkative Francois Mitjaville has elevated
this property to the top echelons of St Emilion. Situated high on the
ridge, that runs east from the town, the terroir is magnificent and
only needed sympathetic handling to produce great wine and since the
mid-eighties there has been a string of gorgeous wines. The 2000 is
perhaps the best yet, even better than the magnificent 1998, but due
to the hail only tiny quantities have been made. (20 hectos/hectare).
The nose explodes with black exotic fruit with more than a hint of
torrefaction - very full palate, even fuller than the 1998 with lovely
ripeness and a whole range of flavours cascade over the palate. 14.2%
natural alcohol which you could easily miss. A St Emilion for lovers
of Grand Cru Burgundy. 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc
Chateau Faugeres
Until 1987, this Chateau which had belonged for over a century to
the Guisez family, had sold its wine off in bulk, but from that year
Peby Guisez and his wife Corinne inherited the estate and decided they
were going to produce a top quality wine. There is no doubt that the
terroir is here. I visited the estate and found superb vineyards
ideally situated on the fine slope that continues past Tertre
Rotebœuf and down to the Côtes de Castillon. The Guisezs have just
put in an enormous investment in the cellars with new stainless steel
vats made in a conical style which allows slow extraction of the
tannins, the anthocyans and the other constituents in the grape skin
so as to enhance elegance and finesse. Great progress has been made
since 1987 and gradually the world press took notice of the wine and
as they realised their efforts, Peby Guisez died of a sudden heart
attack in 1997. If anything Corinne is now more committed and you
would have to visit the estate to understand how determined she is to
make the most of each parcel of land. With the 1999 vintage she
isolated a terroir which had always yielded the best results and named
a separate cuvee after her late hjusband. Peby Faugeres is the top
wine of the estate. Before describing the wines I have to admit that
Michel Rolland consults here but does not make the wine. The
winemaking is handled by the talented Alain Dourthe, who is an
agronomist as well as an oenologist. The 1999s and 1998s tasted here
were extremely fine and I wish I had tasted them before.
Cap de Faugeres, Côtes de Castillon. Lovely colour,
very structured and serious, the vines are just separated by a path
from St Emilion, and will need three years in bottle to emerge. The
yield is 38 hectos/hectare from 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5%
Cabernet Sauvignon.
Chateau Faugeres. The same cepage as the Cap de Faugeres
with 50% new oak being used - very silky fruit and lots of it. Tightly
packed but in no way extracted - this wine balances power and elegance
and finishes well.
Peby Faugeres. This terroir cuvee has a dark colour and the
extract balances the use of 100% new oak. It is 100% Merlot, very
concentrated, lots of spice on the palate and it has a very long
finish. A very modern wine which expresses its terroir and gives
enormous pleasure - very satisfying.
Chateau Rol Valentin
I nearly dismissed this wine as another De Valandraud, how wrong
could I be! Rol Valentin is owned by former soccer star Eric Prissette
who bought the property a few years ago and called in Stephane
Derononcourt of Canon La Gaffeliere fame to help with the vinification.
At the Chateau I tasted 1998, 1999 and 2000 and for me the latter was
the best wine aided by the introduction of more Cabernet Sauvignon
& Cabernet Franc: the colour is deep purple/black, the nose shows
Cabernet and the palate is very firm with notes of sous bois. A very
serious wine from a little known estate.
Chateau Teyssier
Jonathan Maltus arrived in France in the early nineties, having
sold a successful engineering business in England, and decided on a
second career in wine. Having worked two vintages in Cahors learning
the basics, he purchased the run down Chateau Teyssier in the
flatlands around St Emilion. A huge investment in the cellars and
vineyards then followed, raising the quality of Chateau Teyssier
significantly. If that were not enough, very shrewd purchasing of
blocks of old vines in good terroir, has lead to the creation of two
new wines Chateau Laforge and Le Dôme and these have caused
significant interest since the wines were first released. Because they
are not sold on the Bordeaux market place, their distribution has been
slow, but the number of significant tasters, who really appreciate
these wines has grown.
Chateau Teyssier. Very dark colour, big Merlot nose - palate is
full of lush fruit, well balanced with good silky tannins, finishes
well. The price means that this wine is an outstanding bargain.
Chateau Laforge. Laforge runs the spectrum of St Emilion with
soils of three different types, sandstone, pure gravel and clay
limestone. The cepage is 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc and the wine
is aged in 100% new oak. The balance of this wine is extraordinary
probably helped by the different soil types. Deliciously ripe fruity
aromas of blackberry and tobacco, very pure and rich. The tannins are
sweet and ripe and as good as the 1998 was here, I feel that the 2000
is the best yet. All the wines here were planted in 1957 after the
frost of 1956 and can claim to be Vieilles Vignes. Sumptuous.
Le Dôme. A candidate for the most idiosyncratic wine in
Bordeaux, Le Dôme is almost a rarity with its high cepage of old
vines Cabernet Franc (72%) and Merlot (28%). The vineyard is situated
close to Angelus and the wine is very intense with hints of violets,
fraise des bois, damsons and blackberries. The palate is tight with
silky tannins and good fresh acidity which will combine to give this
wine a thirty year, and possibly longer, ageing potential. The length
of the wine is unbelievable and is surely pushing the first growths of
St Emilion. Beware quality goes hand in hand with price.
Chateau Beausejour Duffau-Lagarosse
This premier grand cru classé Chateau situated on the limestone
plateau has perfect terroir and the age of vines to make top class
wines. For many years it has been an exclusivity of one negociant and
not available freely for the UK: from this year it is now free and I
was able to taste there for the first time. The assemblage is normally
not completed until much later in the year and I had to taste the
components from several different barrels, but I had the choice of
barrels which was very interesting. This is a terroir wine, made to be
elegant, complex for ageing, this is not a Parker wine. Several of the
barrels revealed scents of violets, which reminded me of La
Conseillante at its best. The same theme runs through the palate,
tightly constructed wines of real finesse, showing violets, sous bois
and dark fruits. A very rough assemblage was done for my benefit and I
noted all the points above and the extreme elegance of the wine. This
is a wine for those who really understand Bordeaux.
Chateau Quinault L’Enclos
I first visited this vineyard which is in the suburb of Libourne
in the eighties in the belief that they had a special terroir, my lead
for that was Prof Enjalbert, who had made a study of the subsoil. The
wine was truly forgettable and I gave up that line of enquiry. I quite
missed the fact that new owners, the Raynauds, took over in the
mid-nineties and spent heavily on the vineyards and cellars, and thus
the enormous strides that have been made were missed until this year.
A visit here verified that they indeed have this terroir and and are
exploiting it correctly.
The 2000 has a very healthy colour, really full bodied wine that
fills the palate with rich spicy fruit, I found good complexity and a
very satisfying finish and the structure for long ageing. This is not
an early drinker despite the richness of fruit. 70% Merlot, 15%
Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Malbec.
Chateau Roc des Cambes, Côtes de Bourg (Honorary St Emilion)
This is Francois Mitjaville’s property in the Côtes de Bourg, but
do not consider it as you would other properties from this
appellation; that would be the same as describing De Vogué’s
Musigny as Bourgogne rouge. This Chateau produces very serious wine to
match many classified growths. The 2000 yielded 28 hectos/hectare and
is almost entirely a 50/50 Cab/Merlot blend very little Cab Franc.
Very full colour, lots of Cabernet on the nose, full Cabernet palate,
very stylish and with a long, long finish - my notes say knockout.
POMEROL
Although Pomerol and St Emilion border each other and you can
drive from one side to the other in under twenty minutes, there seem
to be differences this year, and whilst St Emilion is highly
successful, apart from a few notable wines, I did not think Pomerol
was as fine as 1998. However, our regulars turned out some very fine
wines and a moribund estate, which we have been watching, forced
itself into the limelight.
Chateau Rouget
Rouget is one of the old estates of Pomerol, capable of making
great wine, but not having performed since the early sixties. The
vineyard is very well sited being separated only by a small road from
Clos L’Eglise and L’Eglise Clinet, the terroir is obviously there.
In 1995 Jean-Pierre Labruyère, president of the Syndicat of Moulin a
Vent, purchased the Chateau and set about refurbishing the vineyards
and cellars. The first stage was to create a second wine which came
about in 1996, and next Monsieur Labruyère hired a competent
winemaker in Antoine Ribeiro. The improvements were noticeable almost
immediately and the 1998 and 1999 were really good wines showing the
latent potential. In 1999, Labruyère sold two hectares of low lying
land at the far extent of the property, which borders Lalande de
Pomerol, and was not best sited, and purchased two prime hectares next
to Trotanoy. This parcel which could have been marketed as a special
cuvee, it was so fine, has sensibly been included in the Grand Vin,
the results show a huge increase in quality from 1999 and 1998 and
firmly place Rouget amongst the stars of Pomerol. This is the time to
buy before the speculators latch on and the price is pushed up. The
2000 is very deeply coloured, with a smokey nose which reveals a hint
of burnt toffee (I have noticed this before in old Rougets). The
palate is mouthfilling, huge volume of fruit combining chocolate and
something animal. The structure is huge which will allow extensive
ageing - finishes very long - this is a must buy - reminds me of great
old La Fleur Petrus.
Vieux Chateau Certan
Since 1986 when Alexandre Thienpont took over the family estate
this renowned Pomerol has improved its quality quite markedly - it has
never been the darling of the American press probably because its
style is not voluptuous and heavy with Merlot. However in 1998 the
Merlot content was increased to 85% and the resultant wine was highly
praised by Parker and we sold our allocation in less than a day - such
is the power of the press. The 2000 has gone back to 70% Merlot with
20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and I think is better
for it. It is a classic VCC, lovely dark colour, the fruit is
restrained and elegant, but the mouthfeel is so silky and shows black
fruits and dark chocolate. This is a very fine wine which for me is
the best VCC since Alexandre took over; I did say to him that I even
preferred it to the 1998 and he was in agreement. Style wins again,
this is really classic Pomerol.
Chateau L’Eglise Clinet
This is real vin de garde from Denis Durantou this year, a wine
which will need serious ageing, perhaps fifteen years and he will need
to give it the maximum time possible in oak. The colour was the usual
deep L’Eglise Clinet but the nose suggested more power and structure
and this was reflected on the palate. This is a really good L’Eglise
Clinet, a Chateau I have followed since 1982, but there possibly have
been better wines in 1998 and 1995.
Clos l’Eglise
This Chateau which runs alongside L’Eglise Clinet and shares the
same terroir has made enormous strides in recent years and I felt that
the 2000 was very serious, indeed even better than L’Eglise Clinet.
Fabulous dark colour, looks very serious, nose of restrained dark
fruits. On the palate, suave, dense, full bodied but not extracted.
Finesse and fantastic length. Sure to be expensive, but probably
justified.
FRONSAC & CANON-FRONSAC
I thought that there were quite a few really decent wines in these
appellations; whose rusticity is quite charming, but the best wines I
felt came from Paul Barre who has two estates, the better being the
Canon-Fronsac from marginally better terroir.
Chateau La Fleur Cailleau
We have known of Paul Barre’s wines for some time but this was
the first occassion we have been able to visit the estate. La Fleur
Cailleau is one of the few estates in Bordeaux which is totally
biodynamic, practised and certified since 1990: the wines reflect this
totally natural way of working and are concentrated stylish and need
no extractive practices to reveal their fruit. The wine totally
reflects the soil, it is very concentrated rich with a touch of
rusticity which is typical of the appellation. I found the wine a
throwback to another generation yet the winemaking techniques are
quite modern.
Chateau La Fleur Cailleau Cuvee 43
Paul Barre did not want to reveal the significance of 43 as the
name of this special cuvee, we can only speculate. The wine is very
special, the colour was perhaps the deepest I noticed on the trip, the
nose rich with Merlot and the palate dense with succulent fruit, yet,
yet the terroir shines through. These very special Canon-Fronsacs are
on the lists of many michelin 2 and 3 stars in France and are made in
very small quantities. This is the first time to my knowledge that
they have been offered en Primeur in the UK.
COTES DE CASTILLON
Chateau Poupille
We have been buying the wines of Philippe Carrille for over ten
years but have never offered them ‘en primeur’ before, because
Philippe does not like selling them this way, preferring to wait until
the wines are in the bottle. Although I could not persuade them to
offer his St Emilion Chateaux, he was prepared to offer his Côtes de
Castillon Chateau Poupille, which was recently highlighted bu Revue du
Vins de France as one of the best buys in Bordeaux. Philippe is very
much a proponent of making the wine in the vineyard and the density
and ripeness of fruit in his 2000 shows the care he lavishes on the
soil. Made from 100% Merlot this full but elegant wine shows the
potential of the Côtes de Castillon and at £43 per case it is an
outright bargain.
PESSAC-LEOGNAN
At the Grands Crus Tasting of the Graves and Pessac-Leognan there
was a fairly even standard of wine with good efforts from Domaine de
Chevalier and Pape Clement. However, I felt that these wine were
eclipsed by the Haut Brion stable which were tasted separately at the
Chateau - my selections come entirely from the latter.
Bahans Haut Brion
This is the second wine of Haut Brion and can be a hot buy in
vintages where the Grand Vin is supreme - this is one of these
vintages. Good depth of colour, lovely dark fruit on the nose -
elegant complex palate - a low key version of Haut Brion. Delicious
45% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Cabernet Franc.
Chateau La Tour Haut Brion
This is a real insiders wine one of the least known of the great
wines of Bordeaux. At the risk of repeating myself this wine is a
separate parcel of ground within the boundaries of Chateau La Mission
Haut Brion and is capable of producing a wine which is different from
its stable mate due to the higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon.
Some stunning wines have been made here including the 1970, 1975
(probably better that the 2nd growths - excepting Las Cases), 1982
when it was as good as La Mission, 1989 and into the nineties. The
2000 in my opinion, beats all the good wines of the last decade, at
least matches the 1989 and could approach the 1982. Buy this one all
day long as it is not only a great wine, its small production ensures
price movement. Darker colour than Bahans, nose is a bit locked but
does reveal dark fruits with almost a Pauillac sous bois character but
the "hot stones" Graves character comes through - marvellous
depth of fruit and so in balance - finishes very long - monster
quality. 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 53% Merlot.
Chateau La Mission Haut Brion
Fabulous colour - nose completely hidden for the moment real power
on the palate backed with a huge structure and a very long finish. You
have the feeling that this wine is waiting to burst forth and
ultimately it could be one of the wines of the vintage. 58% Merlot,
32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc.
Chateau Haut Brion
This I just loved and I place it with Lafite and Leoville Las
Cases as my wines of the left bank - lovely dark colour, the nose is
so elegant yet full of fruit, that it is worth the price of the bottle
alone, tobacco, wood fires and hot stones. Very silky palate, backed
with a structure for twenty plus years ageing - well balanced and
finishes very long and complex and the tannins on the finish are so
fine. Wine really doesn’t get better than this. 51% Merlot 43%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc.
Peter Ballantyne
Ballantynes of Cowbridge
3 Westgate, Cowbridge, CF71 7AQ, UK
Tel: +44 1446 774840 Fax: 1446 775253