The wines
of Wieninger,
Vienna
Website: http://www.wieninger.at/
Vienna is notable in that it’s the only capital city
in the world with significant wine production within its city limits,
apparently. Although Vienna (Wien) doesn’t have the highest
reputation as a wine region, leading producer Wieninger is making some
top notch wines that are relatively affordable.
Altogether, Wieninger have 25 hectares, half of which
is on the left side of the river on the hills, and half of which is on
the other side. They are trialling biodynamics on 5 hectares.
I’m especially enthused by the Alte Reben wines (old
vine) which are deliberately trying to create a style of yesteryear,
with field blends of different varieties from the best terroirs.
Labelled in a very retro style (see above), these are superb wines.
The wines were tried on two occasions: the first set of
notes is from February 2007, the second from February 2006. UK agent
is Noel Young (www.nywines.co.uk)
Wieninger Grüner Veltliner ‘Leicht & Trocken’
2007 Wien, Austria
Light and crisp with some precise minerality and a bit of a spicy
edge. Quite serious stuff with a lovely savoury, minerally character.
Delicious. 89/100 (retail c. £8)
Wieninger Grüner Veltliner ‘Nussberg’ 2006 Wien
Lovely herby depth here with real presence and a peppery edge. The
palate is thick and bold with a lovely peppery freshness. Quite a
thick wine with lots going on. 91/100 (£9.99)
Wieninger Grüner Veltliner ‘Nussberg’ 2007 Wien
Fresh, deep, herby and peppery with lovely depth. Fresh and
bright, with good acidity. Nice savoury intensity. Stylish. 90/100
Wieninger ‘Nussberg’ Alte Reben 2006 Wien
This is a field blend of nine different varieties, made to
recreate the old fashioned style. Complex, taut, nutty nose. The
palate is richly textured with complex herby, nutty flavours. Broad
textured, this is a delicious wine. 93/100
Wieninger ‘Rosengartl’ Alte Reben 2006 Wien
A field blend of old vines selected from the best parcels. Four
varieties: Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling and Traminer. Quite deep
coloured. Powerful herby flavours with a really pronounced citrussy
kick. A taut, bold, complex wine. Lovely. 93/100
Wieninger Chardonnay 'Select' 2006 Wien
Spends 1 year in French oak. Very rich, bold, buttery toasty nose.
The palate is buttery, rich and full with a soft texture. Interesting.
88/100
Wieninger Pinot Noir 'Select' 2004 Wien
Rich and soft with a bit of earthiness and some cherry and berry
fruit. It has a mellow, evolved character. Quite stylish. 88/100
(Tasted 02/08)
Wieninger Grüner Veltliner Leicht & Trocken
2006
Bright, fresh and slightly peppery on the nose; fresh and spicy on
the palate. 88/100
Wieninger Grüner Veltliner 'Herrenholz’ 2006
Fresh, lemony and bright with some spice on the nose. The palate
has good concentration with nice spice and weight to the lemony fruit.
90/100
Wieninger Grüner Veltliner ‘Kaasgraben’ 2006
(barrel sample)
Nice weight and richness with some lemony precision. Tasty. 90(+)
Wieninger Riesling ‘Riedencuvée’ 2006
Very bright perfumed nose. The palate is expressive with high
acidity. A bit of residual sugar here. Concentrated and lively. 91/100
Wieninger Riesling ‘Nussberg’ 2006
Perfumed nose. Nice contrast between the sweet honey and bright
lemon fruit. Off-dry with lovely intensity, thick texture and some
sweetness. Great concentration. 93/100
Wieninger ‘Nussberg’ Alte Reben 2005
A 45 year old single vineyard, with nine varieties. Perfumed,
aromatic, waxy, herby nose. Rounded concentrated palate with lovely
subtly herby fruit. Fantastic. 92/100
Wieninger ‘Rosengartl’ Alte Reben 2006 (cask
sample)
A field blend of four varieties from old vines. Rich fruity nose
with a bit of lemon and some herbiness. The palate has strong waxy,
herby notes and is savourt and a bit spicy. 92/100
Wieninger Chardonnay 'Select' 2005
Two thirds aged in large oak, one third in barrique. Sweet figgy,
nutty nose is quite sweet, with a creamy edge. The palate is toasty
and nutty. Very classy. A rich, fruit-driven style. 93/100
Wieninger Pinot Noir 'Select' 2003
30% new oak. Bright cherryish fruit with nice spiciness and a
touch of undergrowth. Quite light, with some fruit sweetness.
Delicious. 89/100
(Tasted 02/07)
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