The
wines of Sepp Moser, Austria
Website:
www.sepp-moser.at
Weingut Sepp Moser, run by Nikolaus Moser, is one of
the growing band of biodynamic producers in Austria. From 2008 they
will be totally biodynamic. One of their wines is pioneering in that
it is made without the addition of sulfur dioxide – the
‘Minimal’ Grüner Veltliner. It's tricky enough making red wines
without sulfur dioxide, and even more difficult to make whites, but
Nickolaus Moser has managed it. They're really good wines across the
board, and the Minimal is pretty special indeed.
UK
agent: Boutinot
Sepp Moser Grüner Veltliner Gebling Classic 2006
Kremstal, Austria
Quite a rich nose: some lovely texture here. Rich with a peppery,
nutty character and lovely rich fruit. This is a really nice wine with
a smooth texture and good depth. 89/100 (02/08)
Sepp Moser Grüner Veltliner Breiter Rain 2006
Kremstal, Austria
Fermented in large oak. Deep coloured with a nice, rich nutty
herby nose. The palate has lovely rich smooth texture and slightly
sweet fruit. Really elegant and great with sushi, this is just
fantastic. 92/100 (02/08)
Sepp Moser Gruner Veltliner Schnabel 2006 Kremstal,
Austria
Older vines, later harvest. Fresh vivid and peppery on the nose.
The palate is complex broad and minerally with good acidity. Fresh,
full, complex and expressive. 91/100 (02/08)
Sepp Moser Gruner Veltliner Schnabel 2006 Kremstal,
Austria
A classic Gruner, this has a lovely peppery freshness with
richer textural elements to the fruit. There's some bright minerality
and fresh acidity on the palate, keeping this from being fat, and
combined with the smooth, rich texture it makes for quite a compelling
wine that should age nicely in bottle. Pure, refined and expressive.
91/100 (11/07)
Sepp Moser Gruner Veltliner Schnabel 'Minimal'
2005 Kremstal, Austria
This wine, made without any added sulfur dioxide, is
pretty wild stuff. There's a hint of cloudiness to the yellow/golden
colour. On the nose, spicy, slightly peppery fresh notes are combined
with richer, toasty, vanilla, bready elements to create a warm,
complex whole. The palate has really nice tangy, minerally acidity
under the warm toasty, bready notes. There's also some tannic
structure here, which is unusual in whites. Extremely food friendly
and quite complex, with a pleasant sort of reductive character. Who
knows how this will develop, but it's quite serious and thought
provoking now. Serious effort. 94/100 (11/07)
Sepp Moser Sauvignon Blanc Schnabel 2006 Kremstal,
Austria
Unusual. Slightly funky and soft textured. Richly flavoured, ripe
and herbal with broad, warm flavours. Rich and intense. 89/100 (02/08)
Sepp Moser Blauer Zweigelt Grosse Reserve 2004
Burgenland
An elegant, soft red wine. Classy open, sweet blackcurrant and
blackberry nose with pure fruit. The palate is ripe and full with soft
texture. Mellow and a bit earthy. 88/100 (02/08)
Sepp Moser Chardonnay TBA 2004 Burgenland
Sweet and apricotty on the nose. The palate is concentrated and
viscous with bold apricotty fruit. Very sweet, but balanced with good
acidity. 91/100 (02/08)
Wines tasted 11/07 and 02/08
Find
these wines with wine-searcher.com
See also: my series
on Austrian wines
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