I’ve written recently about Pax Mahle’s Wind Gap, giving his Trousseau Gris a positive review. Now it’s the turn of two Rhone varieties, Syrah and Grenache. They’re both beautiful, but my preference is for the remarkable Syrah.
Wind Gap Old Vine Grenache 2012 Sonoma County, California
13.75% alcohol. 420 cases made in two concrete eggs. Sweetly aromatic with red cherries and strawberries. It’s quite lush with some liqueur-like notes, but also has some fine spiciness and hints of leather. The palate is smooth and ripe but has great definition. There’s nice grip here with some cherries and herbs, and a bit of structure. Real complexity and interest. 93/100 (£33.95 Roberson)
Wind Gap Syrah 2011 Sonoma Coast, California
11.4% alcohol. 495 cases made in 17 barrels and 2 puncheons. Thrilling aromatics of meat, pepper and black cherries and plums. Sweetly fruited and very Syrah-like: it’s perhaps a little sweeter and riper than classic northern Rhone, but it has all the delicious meaty, spicy cool-climate Syrah character. Just a hint of green sappiness. Smooth and supple in the mouth. Hauntingly aromatic with finesse and beauty. Silky, detailed and quite profound, and I’d drink this now for the pleasure it delivers. 95/100 (£34.95 Roberson)
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