Had lunch at Moro today with Emily Harman and Laura Rhys. Mark Andrew was supposed to join, but he had to fill in for someone at Noble Rot, so after lunch we headed down to meet him there. Moro: the food is amazing, always, and it didn’t disappoint today. And between Moro and Noble Rot we had some lovely wines, including these three.
Testalonga Cortez 2011 Swartland, South Africa
Considering this is almost five years old, and it’s a white wine made with no added sulfites, it’s just so fresh. The non-skin-contact version of Craig Hawkins’ Chenin, It’s a cloudy, pale yellow colour with freshness and notes of bright lemons and citrus pith, as well as subtle waxy, nutty characters in the background. I’m surprised as to how well this is holding up: it’s really intense, fresh and citrussy with a nice expressive personality. 93/100
Comando G La Bruja de Rozas Valle de Tietar 2014 Sierra de Gredos, Spain
This is Grenache from 850 m altitude, sourced from several plots on granitic sand. It’s made in a lighter, super-drinkable style with nice fesh red cherry and raspberry fruit with fine, grainy tannins. Smashable. 90/100
Domaine Labet Fleur de Savagnin ‘en Chalasse’ 2013 Cotes de Jura, France
From massale selection vines planted in 2003, this is truly remarkable. Fermented and aged in older oak. Complex, lively and citrussy with lovely lemony notes and real concentration and intensity. So fine and distinctive with fine spicy notes and lovely acidity. This is just incredibly beautiful and complex. 95/100
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