I’m beginning a series on Albariño, which is a white grape from north east Spain and Portugal (where it is known as Alvarinho). My mission over the next few months will be to try as many examples as I can, learning by comparison. Eventually, this September, I will be making my first wine, which will be from Albariño, with two wine trade friends. But more on that later. For now: this, I reckon, is the best example of the Albariño grape I’ve encountered.
Eulogio Pomares Parcelarios (I) Carralcoba Albariño 2015 Rias Baixas, Spain
12.5% alcohol. This beautifully packaged wine was fermented and aged in chestnut foudres of 1200 litres, and it’s quite thrilling. The grapes come from seventy year old vines in Castrelo-Cambados. This is brilliantly complex with some apple, lemon and pear notes on the nose, and a really taut, lemony palate with lovely texture as well as well integrated, bracing acidity, and a crystalline quality to the fruit. It flirts with oxidative characters, but manages them beautifully, and it’s just so long and mineral in the mouth. A profound example of Albariño. Stunning. 96/100 (UK agent Indigo Wines)
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