Back to one of my favourite places yesterday, for a lovely lunch. The Glasshouse, Kew, is worth a detour. The wine list is really creative and diverse, the service is impeccable (and there are always lots of bodies on the floor), and the food is seriously good. The Glasshouse has a Michelin star, but if it were closer into Central London, you could imagine it having two (I always suspect there’s a slight bias against neighbourhood restaurants). It’s that good. There’s a lightness of touch to the cooking and also a lovely creativity. The dishes are always detailed, but not gimmicky, and they just look so good, too.
It was a lovely warm afternoon and Kew was at its gorgeous best. It would be a nice place to live – it always feels so calm and villagey. I popped into The Good Wine Shop first for a nose around, and was really impressed by the selection of wines. Lots of great stuff, and a good beer list too. With a top wine shop, and a top restaurant, the residents of Kew are well supplied.
Starter 1: Ceps with pearl barley risotto, roasted hazelnuts, black garlic, parmesan and autumn truffle (very rich, and quite delicious, maybe more autumnal than the weather was yesterday)
Starter 2: Thinly sliced octopus with mussels, squid ink aioli, grilled red peppers and pickled shallots (perfect balance here, perhaps my favourite dish)
Main 1: Loin of cornish cod with squid, brandade, cauliflower purée, meat juices and gremolata.
Main 2: Brill with black rice, brown shrimps and sea urchin butter sauce.
To drink? We investigated the by-the-glass menu, and did quite well, sticking to whites on account of the weather and the food we’d chosen.
- Weinbach Capuchins Pinot Blanc 2011 – nice and appley with lovely fruit
- Louro do Bolo, Godello, Rafael Palacios 2013 Valdeorras, Spain – fresh, lovely pear and melon notes
- Riesling Kanta Balhannah Vineyard, Egon Müller 2009 Adelaide Hills, Australia – this was very good – more textured and elegant than many dry Aussie Rieslings
- Mullineux Kloof Street Chenin blanc/Clairette Blanche 2012 Swartland, South Africa – this was really impressive, with a rounded texture and fine pear and white peach fruit, balancing richness and freshness with great success