Super-impressed by this new Vinho Verde, made by Pedro Barbosa, viticulturist at Douro superstar property Vale Meao. Vinho Verde is often a bit spritzy, overcropped and over-acidic, but this is a good one, made from the Loureiro grape variety.
Clip Loureiro 2012 DO Monte de Vaia, Vinho Verde, Portugal
11% alcohol. Bright, fresh citrus nose with a hint of honeysuckle. The palate is fresh and focused with a bit of pithiness, lively lemon and grapefruit notes and some peachy richness. Long, dry, mineral finish. Stylish. 90/100 (UK agent Indigo Wine; Bottle Apostle have it for £11.80)
Vinho Verde is on the up (but can sill be a puzzle). After a number of years lost in the wilderness there seems to be three distict categories emerging. Alvarinho at the top, competing with their Spanish neighbours’ Albariño. At the bottom there is a large quantity of pleasant, low alcohol, appley wine, often with the famous hint of spritz. But in the middle is where the revolution is occuring IMHO – wines such as this which have a similarity in my mind to the single varietal white wines coming out of southern Italy. Fiano, Fallanghina, Greco di Tufo, Gavi etc. This CLIP wine is among them. Look out for the varietals Loureiro and Avesso.