I like this. It’s a German Pinot Noir in a modern, almost New World mould. I’ve had some good German Pinots in the past, but the best ones have been really expensive. And many have had a green herbal/sweet fruit combination that has been a tiny bit sickly, and has stopped them being serious. Now this wine has none of that. It’s not my favourite ever Pinot, but it’s really good, and it’s expensive but not crazy expensive. If Germany can deliver more serious Pinot in the £15-25 price range, it could be in business in terms of export markets.
Oliver Zeter Pinot Noir Reserve Trocken 2010 Pfalz, Germany
Modern, rather stylish packaging. Vivid sweet cherry and blackberry fruit nose with subtle hints of beetroot and spice. The palate is ripe and full but has a spicy, savoury edge to the fresh black cherry fruit as well as some mineral and tar notes. Some structure, with just a hint of greenness adding interest rather than detracting. A serious effort, but for drinking young rather than cellaring, I reckon. 93/100 (c. £23 Vinoteca, Red Squirrel Wines)
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2 Comments on A lovely German Pinot Noir
German pinot can deliver for under £10, never mind £15-25 eg JL Wolf’s ‘Villa Wolf Pinot Noir’ and Gerd Stepp’s ‘Palataia’ (available at M&S for only £8.99). Both are excellent and easily outclass French and NZ competition. The problem is not the quality (both are outstanding). But simply that they’re German, so no one buys them.
Paul Dove, what is the main reason in your opinion making German wine reputation problematic or hindering Germany to become more recognized as a producer of pinot noir? Thanks!