Lunch at Daniel Primack’s on a perfect June day. We sat outside, listened to music, ate salt marsh lamb and talked. And drank some lovely wines.
Champagne Pierre Gimonnet Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru Oenophile Extra Brut 2008 France
This is just such a pure expression of Chardonnay. It’s direct and quite taut with precise lemony fruit, as well as subtle toast and crystalline fruits. Lovely taut wine. 93/100
Château Le Puy Rose-Marie 2014 Vin de France
This is a naturally made rosé from Bordeaux, and it’s a varietal Merlot, and it’s a remarkable wine. It’s sort of a half-way house between a rosé and a lighter red wine. Full pink/red colour with a bit of bricking on the rim. Fine and silky with lively spicy structure. This has real finesse showing sweet red cherries and plums as well as a savoury pepperiness. Complex, vital and delicious with a forest fruits quality, and also just a hint of strawberry jam. 95/100
Fedellos de Couto Bastarda 2013 Spain
I’ve written about this wine before, so it was nice to be able to encounter it again. It’s a lighter red wine from the Ribeira Sacra region of Spain. It’s from the Merenzao variety, which is the local name for Bastardo (Portugal) and Trousseau (France). The Fedellos do Couto project (which translates as the ‘four brats of Couto) is a collaboration between Jesús Olivares, Carlos Bareño, Pablo Soldavini and Luis Taboada, and they have 5.5 hectares of vines. Very supple, fresh and detailed with lovely sappy raspberry and cherry fruit. Nice and bright with a leafy, sappy edge. There’s fruit sweetness here but also freshness. Fine and expressive. 94/100
Lino Maga ‘Montebuono’ Oltrepo Pavese 1990 Lombardy, Italy
Daniel reckons this wine ‘tastes of life and death.’ It’s supple, spicy, grippy, tannic and tarry with notes of iron, spice and blood. Lively acidity here with cherries and citrus fruits. Supple, bright and focused. 93/100
Le Domaine de Lucie Les Saviaux 2012 Crozes-Hermitage, Northern Rhône, France
This is an organic wine from Lucie Fourel. Very perfumed with lovely floral black cherry fruit. Very focused with good acidity. Expressive and pure with tar, raspberry and black cherry fruit, as well as some savoury meatiness. Nice and typical. 93/100
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That Château Le Puy Rose-Marie 2014 sounds right up my alley, interesting they get 95 points. Maybe some more famous Bordeaux producers should ditch their top wines and try this style too…
Also I love Merenzao but haven’t had that one. Will have to look out for it.