Isn’t Melon an interesting grape variety? I’ve had good examples from Canada (Niagara) and Oregon of late. I’m glad people are working with a variety like this, which traditionally hasn’t been taken seriously.

These were three Muscadets that I opened last night. I think I’ll be exploring this region and grape variety further.

Champteloup Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie 2016 Loire, France
12% alcohol
£6.19 Waitrose
This is very crisp and bright with juicy, lemony fruit. There’s a piercing, mineral core to the wine: it tastes quite stony and it’s not just about fruit. Simple but delicious and so crisp and linear. 88/100

Bonnet-Huteau Goulaine Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine 2013 Loire, France
12.5% alcohol
£14.95 Tanners
This is made from organically grown grapes from schist and gneiss soils, hand picked and fermented on the lees for 18 months. It’s a really complex, taut wine with elegant, pure, linear lemony fruit. There’s some creamy texture hidden among the mass of stony, linear lemon and grapefruit characters. This is understated, but shows lovely concentration and density. 91/100

Domaine de la Chauvinière Château-Thébaud Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Granit 2010 Loire, France
12% alcohol
£15.95 Great Western Wine
From a small section of granite, which is a rare terroir in Muscadet. This is complex and intense with a slight green herb tinge to the fresh quince and citrus fruit. There’s a hint of creaminess and some distinctive stony, mineral character running through the center of the palate. Mouthfilling and intense. 90/100