One of my many themes of 2014 was an attempt to get to grips with Nebbiolo, which I’ve always found one of the trickiest of grape varieties to love, as opposed to just admiring. It’s like a brilliant friend with a prickly personality. You like to hang out with them, but about half the time they are having an off-day and it’s kind of difficult. This wine, though, is quite beautiful.
It’s from a 6 hectare vineyard with vines aged 10-55 years. Aged for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels. Some of the critics have, I think, been a bit stingy in their ratings of this bottle, which comes from an amazing vintage in Piedmont.
Massolino Barolo 2010 Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy
14% alcohol. This is incredibly good. Aromatic nose of warm herbs, spice, tea, roses, black cherries and with a distinct pipe tobacco sweetness. The palate is supple with sweet raspberry and cherry fruit, some pepper, some herby warmth and grippy tannins. There’s real silky generosity to this wine, which is nicely balanced. Fabulous. 95/100 (UK agent Liberty Wines)
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