Two wines from this interesting Pic St Loup property. Zelige-Caravent have 12 hectares of vines, separated into 22 different parcels, on interesting soils in the over-achieving Languedoc commune of Pic St Loup. They farm biodynamically (although they are certified organic only), and the newer parcels are planted at very high density and are massale selection. Winemaking is natural with no added sulphur dioxide until bottling. I really like these wines: they are edgy and interesting, and over the course of two days they showed quite differently at different times. But they aren’t for everyone: the Ellipse in particular has edges that those who like sweet fruit might not enjoy.

Zelige-Caravent Ellipse 2010 Pic St Loup, Languedoc, France
Lively, spicy, meaty, earthy and animally, with fresh cherry and plum fruit as well as lively peppery notes. Vivid and fresh with lovely precision. Yes, it’s a little rustic, but there’s freshness and interest. 89/100 (£15.95 Roberson)

Zelige-Caravent Manouches (2010) Vin de France
A blend of Alicante and Cinsault. Wonderfully vivid, sleek, concentrated and well defined, with meaty raspberry fruit, some black cherries and a spicy core. It’s a thought-provoking wine: alongside the sweet, almost liqueur-like fruit we have some crazy spicy, animally notes, but these are really well integrated into the sweet fruit. Also shows notes of herbs and olives. 92/100 (£16.95 Roberson)