Georges Descombes is one of the band of natural wine guys currently active in Beaujolais. The natural Beaujolais wines like this are by far the most interesting expressions of Beaujolais, and are in the same league of interest as serious Burgundies, in my opinion. Descombes works without sulfur dioxide during vinification (there’s a nice report on him here at Bertrand’s wine terroirs site).
G Descombes Régnié 2007 Beaujolais
13% alcohol. Nicely aromatic nose with a spicy, herby edge to the plum and raspberry fruit. The palate is quite dense with a complex savoury, mineral dimension to the bright raspberry fruit. Concentrated and vital with a spicy, earthy finish. A serious, gastronomic wine of real appeal. Miles away from most commercial Beaujolais, this is a serious expression of Gamay. 92/100 (Indigo Wine, www.indigowine.com)
It’s interesting you’d refer to this Régnié as “savoury, mineral and earthy” – these are rarely the characteristic of Régnié, usually a very fruit-driven floral reds. In fact I’d use exactly the same descriptors for Descombes’ superlative Morgon.
I’ll never forget a visit to the domaine in 2004… I had an appointment at 9am on Saturday, Villié-Morgon was totally desert and bathed in thick fog… Descombes had a serious hangover after a drinking session on the previous night, and there was no hope for any interaction. He served the wines from the fridge and it was like licking cherry sorbet on a chilly November morning. It was like a surreal movie.
The 08 is lovely as is the Brouilly. Both are wild and earthy, but somehow in an elegant way.