I found a bottle of Matassa’s first release kicking around. I bought a six-pack from Sam Harrop when it was first released (£15 a bottle then) and tucked it away. This was the 2002 vintage, and just 1800 bottles were made. I think, if I recall correctly, that this was from a single old Carignan vintage. It has aged really well. Sam is no longer involved in the project.

Domaine Matassa 2002 Côtes Catalanes, France
From granitic slopes, and weighing in at just 12.5% alcohol, this has developed really nicely. Complex, lively and spicy with lovely intensity. Vivid, fresh red cherry and blackberry fruit. Juicy and fresh with real finesse. Linear, pure fruit and real elegance. 94/100