Sometimes the hierarchy of Burgundy vineyards can be a bit of a problem. It magnifies the label effect: when critics see the name Grand Cru on a label, it usually adds points to the score. It’s hard for them to break the hierarchy and give better scores to wines from more lowly vineyards. Here’s a really super Bourgogne from Sauzet. It this was from New Zealand or Australia, people would go nuts for it. But then the price is probably the same as a top example from these countries. Anyway, I liked it quite a bit.
Etienne Sauzet Bourgogne Blanc ‘La Tufera’ 2008 Burgundy, France
12.5% alcohol. Taut, full flavoured and quite sophisticated, this shows nice lemony fruit with some ripe cox apple notes, as well as just a hint of toast, as well as some minerality. It’s fruity and textured – not austere – but still has a lovely tight, savoury character. This is proper white Burgundy. 91/100 (£18.40 Tanners here, Winedirect.co.uk)