Yesterday afternoon I met with Richard Geoffroy, of Champagne Dom Perignon, to chat and taste the 2004 Dom Perignon and the not yet released 2003 Dom Perignon Rose. Richard was in the UK to go to the British Formula 1 Grand Prix at Silverstone, where he was doing a DP event with the likes of Nigel Mansell and Damon Hill. He’s a big fan, so he described himself as like ‘a kid going to a toystore.’
We had a lengthy discussion (which I filmed), as well as tasting the wines:
Champagne Dom Perignon 2004
Fine, precise and subtly toasty with nice pear and peach notes, as well as citrus freshness. Lovely precision with nice bright fruit and a hint of structure. Great purity and presence, with some subtle bready and biscuitty notes alongside the pure, linear fruit. Real elegance and freshness with no rough edges. It’s ripe, but not exotic. 94/100
The 2003 vintage goes as far as possible as Richard wants to go in the directi0n of ripeness and richness. He says his team learned a lot this vintage. The opposite marker in terms of style would be the 1993, or 1988, or 1971 – vintages that were very tight and lean in their youth but which have since blossomed.
Champagne Dom Perignon Rose 2003
Pale pink/orange colour. Lovely creamy richness and ripeness here with some vinous Pinot Noir character, and freshness and lovely texture. Subtle cherry fruit but also a hint of toast. Opens up in the glass to reveal cherry and herb character with a hint of ripe apple. Real finesse: lovely weight and texture to this distinctive wine. 95/100
